When I was doing brake jobs & front end alignments in my late teens & early 20's, I was taught to always tighten the wheel lug nut farthest from the last one I tightened. In the era of drum brakes, that supposedly helped keep drums from warping. It was said the be the 'clock pattern'. On 5-bolt wheels, that means to always move to the next lug nut farthest from the last one, instead of just going around the wheel stud sequentially in a circular pattern.
If a specific torque sequence isn't specified, I still proceed by the 'clock pattern'.
Even if a workpiece isn't round like a clock, such as a dyno cover the sequence is the same. It doesn't matter where you start. In this example we'll begin at 12 o'clock for simplicity.
One thing I tend to do regardless, is not fully tighten completely on the first sequence. I usually do three passes; first sequence 1/3rd. tight, then another pass to 2/3rds. tight, then a final tightening pass. I do this process where a sequence is specified also.
On to our dyno cover example;
I'll snug the screw at whatever I choose as my 12 o'clock start, then the screw at 6 o'clock. Then move to the screw at 3 o'clock, followed by the fastener at 9 o'clock, then 5 o'clock, 11 o'clock etc., always going to the fastener farthest from the last one. After that first pass, repeat again with higher torque, then a final pass to fully tight.
When working with 6mm cross head screws such as those originally in a dyno cover, I'll use a #3 JIS screwdriver & get them tight as comfortably possible by hand. If I'm torquing hex head screws I set the torque wrench to 20, then 45, then 70 in. lbs. respectively for each pass. Torque specs for general fasteners are in the back of the manual
You mentioned it's not the grommet. It almost always is. Seems to be a standard Z1 leak, or at least a weep. Often when the grommet seals well on all four edges, oil will seep past the wires where they pass through the grommet. Once that begins, it's difficult to stop, as degreaser can't penetrate well enough to flush oil out to allow a good seal between the wires and the grommet. About the best I can do is to degrase the wires on each side of the grommet thoroughly as possible, then make it ugly. Huh? A crusty old Kaw mechanic told me once to "make it ugly" when applying sealer to that grommet/wire area, meaning use a copious amount & don't worry about what it looks like. It works. Mostly.
Someone here (maybe swest? Please correct me if wrong) mentioned long ago that he'd had success using Krazy Glue-type potion (ethyl cyanoacrylate) to seal where the wires pass through the grommet. We haven't tried that.
Good Ridin'
slmjim
A biker looks at your engine and chrome.
A Rider looks at your odometer and tags.
1973 ('72 builds) Z1 x2
1974 Z1-A x2
1975 Z1-B x2
1993 CB 750 Nighthawk x2
2009 ST1300A
www.kawasaki-z-classik.com
An enthusiast's forum focused exclusively
on all things Z1, Z2 and KZ900.
Topic Author
