- Posts: 543
- Thank you received: 19
I just dont know....
- 650Dude
- Topic Author
- Offline
- Banned
Nessism wrote:
650Dude wrote: Is it common that free play - etc would result in making shifting difficult?
Of course. If there is not enough freeplay the clutch will drag when you pull the lever back.
I hope thats the issue. I will have a go at it when it warms up on Monday. Thanks again for you advice...as always.
1977 Kawasaki KZ650B
1977 Kawasaki KZ750 Twin
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- 650ed
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 15343
- Thank you received: 2829
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- 650Dude
- Topic Author
- Offline
- Banned
- Posts: 543
- Thank you received: 19
650ed wrote: You may want to try this - With the bike on the centerstand, the engine idling, and the tranny in 1st gear have someone pull and hold the clutch lever all the in. With that done see if the rear tire can easily be stopped from turning (be careful in case it cannot) by hand. If the rear tire can be easily stopped there is very little or no clutch drag when the lever is pulled all the way in. If, however, the rear tire cannot be easily stopped from turning the clutch is not fully disengaging when the lever is pulled in. Ed
A friend suggested that earlier and I tried it. Sitting on the bike, I had it on the centerstand, put it in first and let the rear tire spin. Held in the clutch, and it slowly stopped. I let out the clutch and the tire started spinning again.
The guesswork and possibilities drive me crazy, so Im going to start with the clutch adjustment regardless and then go from there instead of guessing myself to death. So far my friends have said the tranny could be screwed up, shifter drum finder etc etc etc. I'll just start with the adjustment because the bike still shifts smoothly and runs great. At this point im sure it not a big issue, fingers crossed. . The clutch cable feels weird too. Hmmm
1977 Kawasaki KZ650B
1977 Kawasaki KZ750 Twin
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- ajsfirehawk
- Offline
- Sustaining Member
- Posts: 510
- Thank you received: 89
79 KZ650 SR
80 KZ1000 Z1 Classic
83 KZ1100 LTD
Z900RS
23 Mach 1
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- 650Dude
- Topic Author
- Offline
- Banned
- Posts: 543
- Thank you received: 19
ajsfirehawk wrote: I would advise against getting too spun up about what friends say unless they truly have intimate knowledge of your make and model. Stay with the experts chipping in here. Like Nessism Ed said, the adjustment is a simple task once you understand what you are doing. Just do it in sequence and let them know what you find. 650ed has a 70K plus mile KZ650 custom (is that correct Ed, >70K?) and it looks nearly showroom. He too is a by the book guy with loads of 650 specific experience.
Thanks for the reminder and yes, youre right! I will let you know how things go once I run through the sequence.
1977 Kawasaki KZ650B
1977 Kawasaki KZ750 Twin
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Street Fighter LTD
- Offline
- Moderator
- TURBO, Its Better to be Blown than Injected
- Posts: 4906
- Thank you received: 2052
650 Ed is our resident guru on 650s
Check out page one of Bike of the Month. He was first bike featured.
Also you now mention clutch cable feels bad. While doing adjustments
check cable for wear, fraying , lubrication . If a bad cable is confirmed , replace it.
Bad cables can play havoc with clutch function and trying to keep clutch adjusted.
Let alone having a cable snap while riding is a true adventure ( NOT )
Dave
Original owner 78 1000 LTD
Mr Turbo Race Kit, MTC 1075 Turbo pistons by PitStop Performance , Falicon Ultra Lite Super Crank, APE everything. Les Holt @ PDM's Billet Goodies . Frame by Chuck Kurzawa @ Logghe Chassis . Deep sump 5qt oil pan. RIP Bill Hahn
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- JMKZHI
- Offline
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2429
- Thank you received: 48
The motorcycle has a positive neutral finder, so you should not be able to shift into second from 1st or neutral if the motorcycle is not moving. You should be able to shift into neutral from 1st, though, and vice versa.650Dude wrote: I tried my best, earlier in the day, to shift from 1 to neutral or 2nd and it would not. Later in the day it was better but not perfect
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- 650Dude
- Topic Author
- Offline
- Banned
- Posts: 543
- Thank you received: 19
JMKZHI wrote:
The motorcycle has a positive neutral finder, so you should not be able to shift into second from 1st or neutral if the motorcycle is not moving. You should be able to shift into neutral from 1st, though, and vice versa.650Dude wrote: I tried my best, earlier in the day, to shift from 1 to neutral or 2nd and it would not. Later in the day it was better but not perfect
Yeah I couldnt shift from 1st to Neutral with the bike stopped.
1977 Kawasaki KZ650B
1977 Kawasaki KZ750 Twin
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- SWest
- Offline
- Sustaining Member
- 10 22 2014
- Posts: 23029
- Thank you received: 2758
Steve
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- 650Dude
- Topic Author
- Offline
- Banned
- Posts: 543
- Thank you received: 19
SWest wrote: Adjusted properly the plates might stop sticking together. You may have to take them out, oil them and put them back in. Common for a bike that sat for a while.
Steve
Nope. Not on target. I think I may have mentioned this a few times. My bikes NEVER sit for more than two weeks TOPS. In the original post, i made it a point to say the bikes are "well maintained. "
Im active on all of my bikes, even in the winter. They DO not sit. That bike sat in a heated garage for ONE week before I brought it out Saturday.
Guesswork aggravates me (when I do it) so this is where I stand now: Im not speculating anymore. It leads to confusion. Im going to do the adjustment and then check the bike. if that doesnt work I will inspect the basket etc. One thing at a time is how I plan to take it.
1977 Kawasaki KZ650B
1977 Kawasaki KZ750 Twin
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- 650Dude
- Topic Author
- Offline
- Banned
- Posts: 543
- Thank you received: 19
Nessism wrote:
650Dude wrote: Is it common that free play - etc would result in making shifting difficult?
Of course. If there is not enough freeplay the clutch will drag when you pull the lever back.
Would a loose chain cause me not to find neutral?
1977 Kawasaki KZ650B
1977 Kawasaki KZ750 Twin
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- SWest
- Offline
- Sustaining Member
- 10 22 2014
- Posts: 23029
- Thank you received: 2758
650Dude wrote:
SWest wrote: Adjusted properly the plates might stop sticking together. You may have to take them out, oil them and put them back in. Common for a bike that sat for a while.
Steve
Nope. Not on target. I think I may have mentioned this a few times. My bikes NEVER sit for more than two weeks TOPS. In the original post, i made it a point to say the bikes are "well maintained. "
Im active on all of my bikes, even in the winter. They DO not sit. That bike sat in a heated garage for ONE week before I brought it out Saturday.
Guesswork aggravates me (when I do it) so this is where I stand now: Im not speculating anymore. It leads to confusion. Im going to do the adjustment and then check the bike. if that doesnt work I will inspect the basket etc. One thing at a time is how I plan to take it.
How long have to owned it? I was thinking the PO let it sit as a lot do before selling it. Over time things appear. Chances are it's something simple or the steel plates that were free can overheat warping them. Not long ago I found 4 cracked friction disks. Yes, one thing at a time.
Good luck
Steve
BTW, if my suggestions irritate you just say so and I'll keep them to myself.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.