Trying to Rescue a Late 1970s (1977??) Kawasaki KZ1000

SWest wrote:

You might want to lose the Honda turn signals. 

Thanks SWest, if I get this beast together, some refinements might come later.  

It just occurred to me that a friend has a big box of old turn signals........maybe I'll get lucky!!
 

Added lots of "stuff" to the bike the last two days, which raised many questions for me.

I'll try to synch the question to the image.  The pictures scrambled when I submitted.

Q1............is for the first two images.  This odd little plate seems to go on top of that L-shaped frame brace and under the battery/electrical box, and point forward, and angles upward.  Is that correct? 

Q2............in the 3rd image the plate is installed and seems to offer some type of support for the airbox.  Is it correct that the airbox just sits on that plate with no fastening method?

Q3...........in the 4th image I'm just showing the old style electrics that I hope to replace with a combined Rectifier/Rectifier.  I don't think I have room under the battery box and above the swingarm for the R/R.  Is there a suggested R/R location you might point me to?

Q4.........in the 5th image, what's that threaded nut welded on the frame for?  And the oval?  Are they for airbox attachment?

Q5........in the 6th image there are two little stand offs on the frame angled toward the airbox.  What the heck are these all about?

Q6......... And at the rear plastic fender there's another nut welded to the frame.  What attaches here?

Thanks guys, a bunch of small fussy questions, but help is appreciated as usual.

wdhewson wrote:

Added lots of "stuff" to the bike the last two days, which raised many questions for me.

I'll try to synch the question to the image.  The pictures scrambled when I submitted.

Q1............is for the first two images.  This odd little plate seems to go on top of that L-shaped frame brace and under the battery/electrical box, and point forward, and angles upward.  Is that correct? 
Yes the bracket supports the air box.
Q2............in the 3rd image the plate is installed and seems to offer some type of support for the airbox.  Is it correct that the airbox just sits on that plate with no fastening method?

Q3...........in the 4th image I'm just showing the old style electrics that I hope to replace with a combined Rectifier/Rectifier.  I don't think I have room under the battery box and above the swingarm for the R/R.  Is there a suggested R/R location you might point me to?

Q4.........in the 5th image, what's that threaded nut welded on the frame for?  And the oval?  Are they for airbox attachment?
the oval hole is for the carb vent tubes. They run through said hole on the way to the air box top cover.

Q5........in the 6th image there are two little stand offs on the frame angled toward the airbox.  What the heck are these all about? this is where the rear gas tank bungee mounts. 

Q6......... And at the rear plastic fender there's another nut welded to the frame.  What attaches here? the rear snorkel/silencer is bolted there.


 

Thanks Mikaw for addressing my questions.

It was hard to study the parts diagrams and keep the 3-D pictures still in my head.

wdhewson wrote:

Thanks Mikaw for addressing my questions.

It was hard to study the parts diagrams and keep the 3-D pictures still in my head.

Q4. The welded nut next to the oval hole is a mystery. To my knowledge nobody knows what it for. 

If I remember correctly it was for a insulated strap to hold the wiring loom to the frame. 
Steve

SWest wrote:

If I remember correctly it was for a insulated strap to hold the wiring loom to the frame. 
Steve


Thanks Steve.  I'll see if I can find that strap in the parts diagrams.  I did find the rubber strap to hold down the rear of the fuel tank.
 

New RK Max-O 530 chain arrived today, in packaging that would suggest they were shipping a champaign glass!

My 104 link chain was about two or three links too short with the rear axle maximum forward.  I did a rather lot of chain length calculations from web sites, and they gave slightly different answers, so there may be approximations involved.  108 was frequently calculated, so I might have to shorten it from its current 110 links.

It delighted me to have a pressed on and riveted master link system.  I don't have the riveting tool, so might use a punch, hammer, and back up "anvil".  Is there a rule of thumb for how much I should expand the rivet head?  30 thou diameter increase let's say?

I recommend getting a high quality chain riveting tool. They are designed to create the perfect rivet expansion, and they will make removing the rivets when it is time to replace the chain much easier. I bought the D.I.D. tool, and love it.

 

Thanks TexasKZ.  The right tool is always a plus, and should this chain "derail" or break, the bike would be a write off, and so might I.

I found this DID instructions PDF.  Is it similar to what might have accompanied your tool purchase?

I'm a little worried about these instructions, especially the image in 16a which they claim is a good peen, but a zoom shows the peen has split, which means the deformation is way overdone.  So I'm even reluctant to trust their flare Flare Dimension going from 5.5 to 5.8 mm.

Years ago I did some service work in a plant making chain saw chains.  Those rivets are especially well peened as no one wants a bullwhipping chain saw chain flying around.  A split peen was a 100% reject.

Can that attached PDF open?

 

Found some front turn signals that I think are OEM KZ1000. 

Looks like the handlebar hung type but might fit the headlight stalks.  LTD maybe?

Three wire type with 2-filament bulbs............ so I'd have some front running lights in addition to the headlight.

Yes those are LTD handle bar mount turn signals. You can remove them from the clamp mount and mount them on any Z1- Kz 900 stem to convert them. Hard part is the wire hole in the stem is just big enough for the wires. If you splice the wire you need to stagger the splice location and keep them as close to uncut wire OD as possible or you will not get the wires through the stem. I converted those exact TS to mount on the rear of my ‘78 LTD along with red lenses to add running likes.