Katit's 1978 KZ650 project

wrote:

I blocked the emission holes by tapping them (from the valve cover side) and then screwing in a set screw with some red threadlocker.

If you have a good head that is missing a cam cap try pulling the valve train and bolting in a cam. try several different cam caps from the other head you have. If it turns over easily by hand I wouldn't hesitate to run it.

Other head with missing cap also has at least 5 cap holes with ruined thread And those (from what I can tell) is not going to be easy to time-sert.


 

Blocking the smog ports is pretty easy.  Here is what I used on my KZ750 head.  I used a NPT tap and plug.  It took a few tries to get the depth right for the tapered threads so the plug ended up flush or just below.  I ended up grinding a chamfer on the outer top edge of the plug to help, since it is at an angle to the surface it threads into.
 
 

I used Neway cutters and blocked the air injection ports on my 750 head.  There are photos showing the process in the rebuild thread linked in my signature.

The convention used by Kawasaki to reference the angles is different from what Neway references.  For example, the angles 30 and 60 as referenced in the KZ manual would be 60 and 30 as referenced by Neway. 

The cutters I used were originally purchased for redoing a Suzuki GS1000 head which uses a 75 degree bottom throat angle, and that size worked out perfectly for my KZ head.  Kawasaki calls the throat cut angle 30 degrees but think of it as 60.  Kawasaki doesn't cut this bottom angle on the exhaust valves for some reason, and it's that very cut that was way out of spec on my 750 head.  Anyway, Goodson is a good source for the cutters.  You might want to check ebay too.  The blades get dull pretty fast so realize that if purchasing used cutters though.  Also, be sure to find someone with a centerless grinder for the valves.  And make sure to tip the valves otherwise the valves will be too long upon install and you may run out of valve adjustment range which is not good.

Good luck

Oh, and I'd use helicoils to repair the threads for the cam caps.  It's quite easy and cheap, while being a quality repair for stripped threads like those.  Just be sure to use a drill press to make the holes.  I also think you should at least try to see if mixing and match will allow you to find a good cam cap to replace the missing ones.  Can't hurt to try anyway.  Plastigauge can be used to check the clearance.

wrote:

The convention used by Kawasaki to reference the angles is different from what Neway references.  For example, the angles 30 and 60 as referenced in the KZ manual would be 60 and 30 as referenced by Neway. 

 

According to manual Kawasaki measures angle from valve axis. Good to know about Neway, that makes it different. I am planning on getting new cutters and then selling them on eBay when done. I just need 2 cutters from what I understand (one double-sided). I can make guide myself no problem.

I am also thinking about replacing all guides just in case. Those are not very expensive and will be a good idea to do, I can replace them myself, got press and tools I need.

Oh, and I'd use helicoils to repair the threads for the cam caps.  It's quite easy and cheap, while being a quality repair for stripped threads like those.  Just be sure to use a drill press to make the holes.  I also think you should at least try to see if mixing and match will allow you to find a good cam cap to replace the missing ones.  Can't hurt to try anyway.  Plastigauge can be used to check the clearance.

Ed, Why helicoils vs time-sert? Time-sert look like much more solid solution.
As far as "missing caps" - I don't have any in 2nd head I have. Thats why I am planning on using it. In this head I have 3 issues with threads. One on cover (not cap) which is easy. And 2 on carb mounts which I don't think going to be a big deal either. Other than that - all caps in place and threads is good. Of course measurments to be made.


On other note.. This KZ project is just of series of some mess-ups. So, I got double-oven off FB for $50. Need to heat parts/cases before paint (to remove any oils). And planned to make bigger oven in future for other paint and potentially powdercoat projects. Well, bought it as "working" but it does not work. So, another project to "fix it".

"Oven project". So, oven needed to heat parts to get them cerakoted. Ok, ebay had some parts that supposedly "fixes no display issue". Here we go $30. Replaced parts. Nope. Ok, then I figured that I just needed PID controller and wire elements directly. Finally got cheap inkbird controller and got over working. Now it hold temperature precisely. 

Question about engine covers. I started polishing just to see how much PITA it is. Not bad, actually. So, I am going to polish covers, decided. On cover on a pictures, what should I do with lettering and those "dots" on background? How do they come from factory? 

 

On the KZ650 the area around those dots and the dots were originally black.  Ed

 

Polish it, tape that area off, spray it black with engine paint. Once it's dry, remove the tape and sand the cover with something like 2000 grit sandpaper on a block to remove the spray paint from the lettering and such. Then polish again if needed. 

Kaylinator post=846244Polish it, tape that area off, spray it black with engine paint. Once it's dry, remove the tape and sand the cover with something like 2000 grit sandpaper on a block to remove the spray paint from the lettering and such. Then polish again if needed. 

Should it be gloss? Any recommendation on paint?

Is ring around need to be black as well?

I am thinking painting first (after blasting) and than sanding and polishing. This way I won't have to sand twice. Any reason to do it differently?

Mine was a semi gloss and yes, the ring was also painted.  Ed

I found it was better to sand and polish once first so you spend less time polishing after paint. Helps to ensure you don't end up taking some of the paint you want to keep off.

As for paint, I just used Rust-oleum semi-gloss engine paint. 

Worked with head. Measured camshafts - all in specs, very little wear. Fixed 2 threads for cover - love timeserts. First one little too deep, but now I know. Dab of silicone will hold it not problem. Will take to shop, let them fix 2 intake threads..