1977 KZ1000 Restomod

The Mini is up and running again so I am getting back to this. Too cold to repaint the bodywork at the moment so I'm just getting it sanded and prepped bit by bit as I get the rest of the bike together. Got the bottom end back together and in the frame. Will get the triples installed tomorrow so I can get it up on the stands. Then I'll gap the rings and get the block and pistons done, if I've got time I'll check the valve-piston clearance.

 

Looking forward to seeing it finished.

i had a mini. 998cc 50hp. Turned and stopped well. Acceleration not so much.

One night with a bunch of the other soldiers their ride ditched them. I gave them a ride home.

6 adults in a Mini, The tires bounced off the fender wells and had a delicate dance with clutch slip the whole drive back to the Kaserne.

Looked like clowns in the circus when everyone got out to show IDs to the gate guards.

I have enough problems trying to get into the damn thing by myself!

Got the triples on and the frame on the stands today. Pistons and block are also in and now I need to figure out a way to get the rubber dampers in by the cam chain roller without popping any of the piston rings out 

I also left off the o-rings for the base of the cylinders (wasn't my day...). I assume that won't be a problem though, can't see them doing much and with the heavy duty cylinder studs the base gasket should keep everything sealed.... Thoughts?

 

 

 

 

As Dirty Harry would say "do. you feel lucky punk" !!

"Well, do you, punk?" 

The full gasket kit that I bought for my GPz 1100 (with a KZ 1000 J barrel and head) from WeBike in Japan did not have those o-rings, so none were fitted when I re-built the top end...
10 000km later she's running sweet, no leaks, no smoke!

Good to know, thanks. I was pretty sure they wouldn't do much.

Can anyone tell me the thickness of the upper rear engine mounts? I made some out of 3mm steel and it's a really tight fit with the spacers. I think I need to take about 0.5-1mm off each spacer but I don't want to take too much off.

Put the clutch together tonight. Not sure about the lutch cover with the window in it, will probably paint a stock cover and see which one looks better. No photos as I was getting into trouble over the time spent in the garage and had to rush back home Will take some pics tomorrow.

Took the spacers out of the upper rear engine mount and measured the gap. Need to take 0.5mm off each.

It's coming together 

Here are some pics of the clutch cover. It needs a new coat of paint as the countersunk holes were too tight so I had to open them up to 11mm to have enough wiggle room to mount the cover. I'm tending towards painting a stock cover and going with that. Dropped one off to get bead blasted today so I can paint it next week and see how it looks. The fact that the clutch and the window aren't concentric bugs me...

I also got the rotor on (a modified 750 rotor that fits on the smaller crank taper). Then I sorted out the spacers for the engine mounts and took the blue anodising off the fork caps so I can put them back together on the weekend.


 

 

 

 

 

Painted stock cover gets my vote

Looks great…..

I think the window looks cool. To my eye, the alignment is so non-concentric, it works. If it were just a little off-center, it would look odd. This isn't just a little off-center.