Turbo for my KZ1000

I pulled all the valves and measured and inspected, intakes 1.525 - and exhaust 1.30 -. Nice and no side play in the valve guides. Intakes are Ported and smoothed, I'll polish them to look like chrome. No tach hole. And head relieved for the bigger cams. All intake stamped 5? Going to get it vapor blasted and send it out for a real inspection and valve seats cut. Chris

I have no motorcycle porting experience, but in the Small Block Chevy world, good port work leaves the intake runner walls textured. It helps with additional atomization of the fuel and turbulence to help keep the fuel suspended. 

Sounds reasonable, I have no idea! If I have this head Vapor blasted will it affect the sealing surfaces? Or will it be no problem? I sent the Turbo to G-POP for an inspection and Jim should be calling next week to advise, I'll ask him what he thinks about the polishing. Thanks for the Input!! Chris

You want to leave the intake runners rough. Some people even dimple them:

Don't polish the inlets , leaving them slightly rough help atomization.
Polish the exhaust to delay carbon build up.

Dang!! That looks Awesome!! Who did It and will they do mine? Chris

wrote:

Dang!! That looks Awesome!! Who did It and will they do mine? Chris

If you are referring to the dimpled "golf ball" inlet i wouldn't bother.
There's been loads of experimentation and dyno testing with that and it showed no significant power gain or advantage except to the person taking your hard earned cash to do it.
If it were in any way effective you would have seen it applied to the latest hi performance factory engines by now..

speed.academy/10-myths-of-cylinder-head-porting/

Yeah I just read through this and It is pretty interesting, but this head and turbo ran well before so I'll probably leave it as is. For my use, NO RACING, just the cool factor. Still could use a valve seat job. Chris

So the Turbo arrived at G-POP and Is OK after inspection but does have wear. No metal to metal contact! So a full rebuild is in order to make it perfect since I bought it with the PO saying it was in good condition. And we have all heard that before! Should be back in the next week. I had orthoscopic surgery on my right knee yesterday and am ok at this time. Just a little keyboard jockyin'. Asked a nearby guy about vapor blasting the cylinder head and he said with the factory paint on it probably over 200$, so I may glass bead it myself (I have a blasting cabinet) But wanted the cleaner look for the head and cylinders as I want to paint them a color other than black, but I really don't know, just throwing it out there! Any advice is welcome. Also are these valves the standard size for this head and are the cams supposed to be Identical? Thanks Chris

If you have your own cabinet, why not just blast the paint off yourself, and then take it to the vapour blaster to get the look you're going for? It should almost certainly be quite affordable with some prep work on your end. 

I will probably do that when I heal up some, just checking it out though. I can do most anything but there are times that I will Point and Pay for the convenience. It will take a long while to remove all that paint and my time is worth a LOT!! If it's anything like the Vintage Husqvarna paint, God Help Me!! Any one near NNJ that does good work on the valve seats, maybe I should Just bite the bullet and clean the head and send it out to get worked I don't Know. Still got to unwrap the welded crank I bought and start thinking about the pistons for this Turbo setup. It's gonna be awhile! Chris