1976 Kz 900 A4

I agree with the heft of these. I have the trans and crank inside separate heavy contractors trash bags and set inside a covered plastic tote. As I was picking up the crank I was thinking this can’t be right, I must be lifting the trans with it…. Nope just the crank. It had been a while sense it’s was stored and had forgot what an anchor they are. 

I talked to Stan Gardner Friday, nice guy, said rods can’t be bushed not a large enough OD on the small end to support the overbore. He side he has about 50 cranks in his shop and is sure if mine needs rods he will have good replacements. I left a message for John Pearson, but no return call yet. Crank is boxed under directions from Stan. It’s waiting on either a label to Ohio or Maine. 

 

I pulled the rotor off the crank before shipping. I stacked all parts in order on top of the upturned rotor and put a zip tie loosely to hold orientation. Wrapped it in a trash bag and into the tote next to the trans for safe storage. Today I realize I had forgot about the woodruff key. Started looking around the bench area and found this, see picture. Is this the Kz key. I have also recently replace an engine on my neighbors riding tractor and the flywheel has a similar woodruff key and don’t know if I found the Koehler or Kz key. Mine could be still in the crank and I’m not cutting open the package to see. This thing is tiny. About 15mm long. 

 

Looks like it but worn. I made my own from one I got at the hardware store. Been 4 years and still tight as a gnat's ass. 
Steve

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationA few of them.
Steve

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

wrote:

A few of them.
Steve


With my limited knowledge, I would have to say this crank looks like a J model ('81 and up) crank to me.
 

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationYou're right wrong one. Doesn't show enough pictures like the others do.
Steve

Ok, I spoke with John Pearson. I’m more confused now. He said the small ends most definitely can be bushed. The expense for a street bike though kinda prohibits it. A disassembly, clean, bush, hone back to 17mm, and reassembly is around $500. For a race engine not a big expense, considering the reliability/durability it will lend to a big bore engine. So he offered to reach out to his clients and see if anyone may have one on the back of their shelves. John mentioned the Kz900’s crank is not so popular with his race crowd nowadays. The MK or the J are more preferable. So for now the boxed up crank sits waiting further discoveries. I have no experience with Pearson nor Gardner, but I feel based on conversations, and listening to each tell me of their capabilities I’d lean toward Pearson. John is a full machine shop that builds competition drag engines. Gardner only works on crankshafts. I’m not done with Gardner yet though, he said he would size up and inspect my crank and the only cost would be shipping. I need a few more conversations with them both before i can tell you the rest of the story. 

Thank you to those that posted contact information. 

If anyone has a Kz900 crank being used as a door prop, let’s talk.

Good luck sorting out your options.  Both those guys come highly recommend and won't do you wrong regarding the quality of the build.  It may pay to make it clear what your budget is.  From what I've read a full crank rebuild is quite  expensive. - $1500?  You may not need the full monty treatment though.  Good luck either way.

Have you posted pics of the rod small ends? You may not need it.
Steve

wrote:

Good luck sorting out your options.  Both those guys come highly recommend and won't do you wrong regarding the quality of the build.  It may pay to make it clear what your budget is.  From what I've read a full crank rebuild is quite  expensive. - $1500?  You may not need the full monty treatment though.  Good luck either way.

Thanks Ed, my budget seems to keep coming back to the prices of a useable crankshaft. There is zero practically of spending $500 and up, when a $150-$200 good used will do the job. This will be a very lightly ridden show bike. Any money above the cost of a good replacement isn’t wisely spent.