Saving a '81 KZ750-E

This is the jack I use, I don't have a better pick but you get the idea...

 

With two opposing tie downs on each side it is more stable than it looks.  I can grab the frame and shake it without any movement, except the lift itself.

wrote:

With two opposing tie downs on each side it is more stable than it looks.  I can grab the frame and shake it without any movement, except the lift itself.

Yep, two tie downs on mine too....

I started to disassemble the forks (Honda CBR600RR) and didn't get very far before I needed a special tool.  I had to order a thin 19mm open end wrench.  I am not into modifying existing tools if it can be avoided.  Purchase said "ships in 1 - 4 weeks".  I guess it's time to address the tach squeal.  I never threw away the old tach cable that was on this bike.  Not sure why since it sat for 28 years.  But I can use the tach end but cutting it off and chucking it in a drill to bench test the lubrication solution before putting it back on the bike.  Crossing my fingers I can fix it and not having to replace it.

It took a while for me to get these Honda CBR600RR forks rebuilt, but they are finally done and back on the bike.  The oil was definitely in need of changing, so I am a little glad they started to leak on the first real test drive.  I should have done this rebuild before, but oh well...  they are done now.  In order to achieve the proper torque on the damper bolt, the FSM calls for another special tool (I hate special tools!) to keep the damper from spinning.  Partzilla has it, but for way too much money.  So I found the correct size steel tubing, and made my own.  I found a piece of round tube just the right size laying in my metal scrap pile.  A half hour later, I had what I needed.  Saved $76.  




I had a piece of PVC tubing to drive fork seals in, but I was using it for standard forks.  Had to be removable for the upside down forks, so I cut out a section so it would stay on the slider.  Another special tool cost avoided.


So I finally have the bike on it's wheels again.  I need to refinish installing the front end bits, fender, headlight, etc., then I can move on the carburetors and see if I can clean up the way she runs.  Slow progress is progress none the less!

 

Looks like time to light the fire and kick the tires!  Gonna need an hour to warm up the shop with my wood stove before I start turning really cold nuts and bolts!

 

Rechecking the float levels on the carbs.  I decided bending over the vise was not comfortable, so with some shims I got the carbs level on both axis using some 2" x 2" angle and vise grips on my work bench shelf.  #1, 3, and 4 were within spec.  #2 was not.  The fuel level was flush with the sealing surface of the carb.  Thought I had it right, but it is what it is.  Trying to be gentle with the 40 year old float, my first three attempts to lower the fuel level to the required 4 +/-1 mm, I rechecked with zero change.  Fourth try and I over compensated.  It measured at 5.3 mm.  Finally on the fifth try, I got it within the spec.  I know, I know...  I am getting old.     Now they are ready to go back on the bike to recheck the sync.  Probably got that wrong last time, too considering my track record so far.  Once they are sorted I will wait for a sunny dry day and grit my teeth in the cold for another test ride.


 

The weather has not been kind this December.  Wave after wave of snow storms, coupled with high winds.  It's really the wind that prevents the next step on my Green Monster.  I can't run the bike inside the shop without opening the roll up doors due to exhaust accumulation, and the wind has been too strong to keep the doors open.  And if the wind dies down, opening the doors lets all the heat out.  Anybody have a tissue for my issue?!  I know I am whining...  the next week has highs in the upper 20/s to low 30's, and overnight lows in the teens.  Keeping the shop doors open is not going to happen.  It may be time to swap project bikes on the lift and work on something that doesn't need the engine running.  My Street Tracker needs a lot of love as well.

 

Been a while.  A cold winter here.  I am down to one last task before the next test ride, which is synch the carbs.  I plan on using the stock tank as the fuel supply.  I purchased a socket and will weld a nut on the end leaving access for a screw driver, instead of purchasing a special tool.  It has been flirting with temps almost warm enough to run the bike with the shop doors open.  I am really looking forward to the next test drive!

Looking great!
The front fender looks a bit big though.
I'd be blacking out the lower portion, leave the top green, to make it look more like a tradition KZ fender.

After sitting for most of the winter, I finally got the fuel supply hooked up.  Unfortunately it is leaking fuel like crazy, mostly from the "tee" between carbs 2 and 3 where the fuel is delivered.  I rebuilt the carbs and used new buna o-rings, but now the "tee" pivots way too easily.  I wonder if the o-rings shrank from a lack of fuel exposure?  So at the moment I am fighting the leaks.  I hope I don't need to remove the carb bank to get this corrected.  The previous owner of this bike is coming up for a visit this weekend, and he has never seen the transformation in person - only in pictures.  I was hoping to have it in running order by his arrival, but I guess that is not to be.