Starting a rusty '82 KZ750

If you post the sizes you need in the WTB forum there is a good chance someone will answer.

There should always be a fishing dance done prior to trying to extract a part from the chain tunnel. Nice job getting it out!

I don't want to jack this thread too much more, but I made a graphic just in case anyone else actually wants to know what we are talking about . Let me know if you think it does not represent the issue.

And yes, if I recall, we both measured actual gaps on actual heads using the different methods and we both saw about the same difference between the two methods, so at least we agree the two methods differ and we agree on how much (if I recall). I will say, though, that in 1991 Kawasaki published a supplement for the Zx and Zr 550 motors and they kept the same method as on the Kz550's.

There should always be a fishing dance done prior to trying to extract a part from the chain tunnel. Nice job getting it out!

This is my signature move.

Can get a 5 pack of 13mm shims for $5 and Table B2 - Valve Clearance Adjustment Chart recommended I get 2 of each of the 240's and 255's based on my measurements and current shims. So I purchased 2 five packs from DennisKirk and with shipping that came to $18. Sold.

That is a good deal!

loudhvx wrote: That is a good deal!

Got lucky with the shim sizes needed for correction. Now lets hope these do the trick.

Ok. I'm really confused now. I swapped out the shims as described with seemingly no change in gap measurements. I'm really frustrated. Not sure how I'm screwing this up. I feel like an expert at this point but CLEARLY I'm not. This is just a rant post... I'll come back with some exact measurements this evening.

We've probably all been there. Consistency in the measurement does make a difference. Also, I measure at least 3 times before I ever remove a cam. If you rotate the motor so many times that you start to pump a lot of oil into the head, that could change measurements. So I try to rotate slowly... I think that lets pump oil pressure bleed off in the bottom end before it gets to the camshafts.

Tvag06 wrote:
This is my signature move.

Beat this!!!

Scirocco wrote: Tvag06 wrote:
This is my signature move.

Beat this!!!

There's no competing with talent like that. :woohoo:

loudhvx wrote: We've probably all been there. Consistency in the measurement does make a difference. Also, I measure at least 3 times before I ever remove a cam. If you rotate the motor so many times that you start to pump a lot of oil into the head, that could change measurements. So I try to rotate slowly... I think that lets pump oil pressure bleed off in the bottom end before it gets to the camshafts.

TILT when you decide to change your shims, it's best not to mix them up. :blush: After pulling the cams and buckets again I discovered I had put the 2.55's and the 2.40's under the wrong buckets. Not sure how I did it (beer was probably involved). Bottom line is that now all gaps are in spec. E3 is just in tolerance so I'm going to go with it.

E 10 13 18 10
I 10 13 15 10

Reinstalled the valve cover, bolts (70 in/lbs) and all. Reinstalled the auto-tensioner cap. Opened the choke hit the starter and she started right up. No tapping. The backfire issue is still there however. I did not tighten down the clamps on the boots to the engine so the backfire gas pops out the gap b/t the boot and #1 carb. I'll try to grab a video of it to post.

Phew. Glad that's over.

Pulling the carbs again. No fire in 3 and 4.

Checked for spark and have spark
Checked for compression and have compression
Checked fuel levels and carbs have fuel