Starting a rusty '82 KZ750

Nessism wrote: Valve adjustment is critical since the valves tighten with mileage and once all the clearance is gone the valves will hang open and burn, along with the valve seats. It should go without saying that the valves must be checked and adjusted as needed.

Acknowledged. Anything else I should inspect/replace in the top end since I'm likely opening it up?

Valve cover gasket and maybe the rubber cam plugs. The cams have to come out of the engine to adjust the shims. Loudx has a warning you should review regarding releasing the cam chain tensioner spring before reinstalling the tensioner after the work is done.

Checked all Intake and Exhaust valve clearances using .05, .10, .17 and .20 mm gauges(I didn't have a .15 so I used a .17mm gauge).
Exhaust(mm) .10 .17 .17 .10
Intake(mm) .10 .05 .05 .10
I was able to swap the Intake and Exhaust shims from #2 (2.45 and 2.50 respectively) to get them both in spec. I ordered a 2.50mm for exhaust #3 (2.55) and 2.50mm for intake #3 (2.45) along with the new valve cover gasket. Cleaned the old gasket mtrl off the cover last night will clean the up the other surface tonight.

Nessism wrote: Valve cover gasket and maybe the rubber cam plugs. The cams have to come out of the engine to adjust the shims. Loudx has a warning you should review regarding releasing the cam chain tensioner spring before reinstalling the tensioner after the work is done.

I wasn't able to find any post by this individual. Can you give me more insight? I have the automatic tensioner and all I did was unscrew the cap the protrudes out to the right (per the manuals instruction). Thanks again.

He made a typo. The user name is loudvhx.

Here is the link.
s3.amazonaws.com/gpzweb/CamsKZZXZR550500...KZZXZR550500400.html

TexasKZ wrote: He made a typo. The user name is loudvhx.

Here is the link.
s3.amazonaws.com/gpzweb/CamsKZZXZR550500...KZZXZR550500400.html

Thanks Tex. BTW I just got back from Houston. Nice down there.

Parts were supposed to arrive today but look like they will be delayed. That's ok because I have yet to clean the gasket scuzz off the engine. I don't want to damage anything or get any particulate into the engine while I clean. I was thinking of using brake cleaner, a razor and a vacuum. A little apprehensive on using a metal razor on that mating surface tho. Other thoughts?

A hard plastic scraper may be less risky than a razor. They are cheap and should be available anywhere house paint is sold.

Got the shims in. I installed them. Don't have a torque wrench the proper size so picking that up tonight then reinstalling the cams, checking the clearances to verify they are now in spec then reinstalling the valve cover, hoses and rectifiers (I hope). Then we'll see if that fixed the tap tap tap-a-roo.

On of the rubber camshaft plugs fell out during my inspection. The rest are solidly in place. Can I reinstall it with Permatex High Tac or a gasket maker? High Tac seems like it's better for this application.

Yes, the plugs can be installed with sealer on the curved section after cleaning off any oil.

Tvag06 wrote: Checked all Intake and Exhaust valve clearances using .05, .10, .17 and .20 mm gauges(I didn't have a .15 so I used a .17mm gauge).
Exhaust(mm) .10 .17 .17 .10
Intake(mm) .10 .05 .05 .10
I was able to swap the Intake and Exhaust shims from #2 (2.45 and 2.50 respectively) to get them both in spec. I ordered a 2.50mm for exhaust #3 (2.55) and 2.50mm for intake #3 (2.45) along with the new valve cover gasket. Cleaned the old gasket mtrl off the cover last night will clean the up the other surface tonight.

After installing new shims, reinstalling the cams and torquing them down I got new numbers that do not compute.
HERE ARE THE ORIGINAL MEASUREMENTS AGAIN

# valve	Exhaust (1st)	Ex-Shim (1st)	Intake (1st)	In-Shim (1st)
1	.10		.10
2	.17	250	.05	245
3	.17	255	.05	245
4	.10		.10

HERE ARE THE MEASUREMENTS AFTER ADJUSTING SHIMS

# valve	Exhaust (2nd)	Ex-Shim (2nd)	Intake (2nd)	In-Shim (2nd)
1	.13		.10
2	.23	245	.05	250
3	.20	250	.04	250
4	.13		.15

I torqued it all down according to spec. The only difference is I had purchased a new feeler gauge to measure more accurately this time. I didn't think to measure using the original feeler gauge before I pulled the cams again. Assuming the gauge is accurate and comparable to the original gauge, am I missing something? How can I see no change in the #2 and #3 intake and an increase in gap in the #2 and #3 exhaust? :S :dry:

Are you sure you do the right measurement before and after or is it a typo???

Thanks. Good Catch. I updated the original post (.05, .04, etc...)