1980 KZ1000E ST project

Be proud to ride along side of that one.
Steve

Well it is running. At first number two carb was overflowing gas, but it stopped when I turned off of prime and choke. I assume the float level is off. No oil leaks. Quite a bit of smoke to start. Seems to idle and is throttle responsive. The old clutch cable was frayed and I thru it out, so nothing on the road yet and I don't have front brakes either yet,but I'd like to see it shift and roll.

R

Well the smoke from assembly and cleaning is burned off and it starts easy and revs well. Weeping a bit of oil on one the billet cam plugs. Still a lot to do before any significant ride. Headlight bucket guts, from MC, clutch cable, tail wiring to repair what was there before, lever perches, grips, tires at some point, seat cover (although the original is in food shape it has tears that are bound to worsen, carb synch etc. Long range I'll save for full body paint over this winter. Thinking midnight blue for the tank, side covers, rear fender, and hard bags. Good day. R

You've come a long way sense you started working on your 550. You've turned out to be a pretty good wrench.
Steve

Thanks been tinking with bikes since 16. I have always been good at following instructions. Helps with bikes and life.

It's gonna be a fun ride. I was cursing throwing out the old clutch cable. Can't go far without one. Hahaha. R

Hello all, I ran into a PO problem. I thought I was hearing some noise possible from the cams when I noticed the right coil was arcing to the valve cover case. On the good side, nice blue white spark, bad side the PO as some point fitted Dyna 3.0 ohm coils and modified the stock coil bracket by cutting it. Pics below. I am gonna search the archives too but I remember the topic of being careful not to ground dyna coils to the frame. That they need to be isolated. the coils have a brass bushing that I assume aids grounding to the frame. The bracket was broken from the PO cut and the post was free not bolted to the frame and was throwing an arc. What to do. The stock bracket will not fit the coils. Can I make an aluminum hanger or does it have to be steel? Any input appreciated. R

They are bolted to the frame for heat dissipation among other things. Aluminum will be fine but it can break with vibration.
Steve

I went with mild steel. A bit of time with the grinder. Tapped the 6mm 1.0 top hole and will use washers and lock washers on it. The arc is fixed. 7$. The stator is working well, it hits 13.9v at the battery terminals @ 4000 rpm. Cleaned up the rear wiring harness with proper electrical connectors. The hard bags are wired in for running lights and turns. Front signals wired after ripping them off the Vetter fairing. Between two tanks I managed to salvage one petcock. One had a bad oring, the other a bad rubber selector. Together it's holding gas. Actually except for paint condition, the original tank is in much better condition overall. Both that are rust free inside and the 2nd one still has a finish on it. Clutch cable and other bit still needed. I need to find some ribber grommets for the front turns. Anyway, a few pics of the bracket. R

Hello all,

I have no spark on #3 and intermittent spark on #4. Doesn't make much sense to me as coils are hooked 1 4, black and pink on left and 2 3 green and pink on right. Plugs are clean and gapped, but they are the old plugs. They look fine. As I remove spark plugs while running 1 and 2 and four intermittently affect the idle. #3 had no spark and no effect when removed.

It will back fire every once in while and I assume that is gas collecting in number three. I suppose I will test #3 wire for continuity. I replaced the spark wire but not the boots. The #3 and #4 pipe is far less hot and water does not instantly evaporate.

What order should I do things? Can a coil lose one output and not both? Any help appreciated.

R

No spark on three or four. Mmmm. Will trace wiring back to IC ignitor tomorrow. R

Will replace caps and plugs, first things first. R