GPZ 1100 resto mod 'Old Red'

Had to clean up the garage for a fish fry this Friday. I put the tank and seat on to get an idea what it looked like.

I also put a straight edge on the drive sprocket and see that I need a 17 mm farther offset. According to JT Sprockets the stock sprocket is 12.7 mm from back to front of the sprocket. So, that would mean I need 29.7 mm from back to front. Now there is a stock sprocket for a zz-r 1100 that is 24 mm from front to back. If I flip the rear sprocket to gain a couple mm will this work or should I look for true offset sprocket? Also, when I find say a 5/8" offset sprocket is that 5/8" on top of the standard thickness?

that means that you took a flat backed sprocket and moved the teeth 5/8's out of plane with the splines.


hth,
leon

I am trying to not lose the momentum that I have going on my project. As the weather warms up so does my schedule. Motorcycle safety classes are looming large and my summer is starting to vanish plus the wife wants to go for rides also - not complaining, just another consumer of my time albeit very pleasant.

I pulled the swingarm off to scrub off the rear foot control tabs off - no going back now - to allow the new swingarm to move freely. When I put it back on, I shortened up the linkages significantly, I liked the stance that is has now. it is setting with the tail up in the air a little more, with more weight on the front tire helping with ground clearance. In the spirit of not getting bogged down in too many details and make it a runner, I am going to keep the GSXR clip-ons for now.

I bought a used GSXR1000 sprocket, flipped it around to push the chain inboard another 1.5 mm (the chain will clear the frame and the tire).

I put a straight edge on the rear sprocket, and measured that I need 23.5 mm from the outside face of the front sprocket to the face of the drive assembly. My question now is, there is 1/2" of spline sticking out of the transmission. The old drive sprocket is 1/2" thick, the offset sprockets from PBI that I see are only .350 thick . a 30mm flat washer is about .150" thick per McMaster.com. So, it will be very close with a 3/8" offset sprocket with a 30 mm washer on the back side so that the nut is resting on the sprocket and not the shaft and there isn't any in and out slop (if I am mis-guided in my thinking, please let me know), How do I make sure I am not pinching the sprocket against the engine? should the nut be landing on the shaft and not the sprocket? What type of material should I be looking for the shim so that it doesn't harm the engine casting?

there should be a steel bushing that slides over the splines and the seal actually seals on.
the sprocket sets up against this also.the nut clamps the sprocket (and shims if used)against this.


hth,
leon

The hub of the offset sprocket I was looking at from pbi isn't as thick as the stock sprocket. So, would the shim go on the engine side of the sprocket or the outside of the hub? is there any concern with what material this shim is or that it is floating on the backside of the sprocket? should I tack the washer to the sprocket?

My gpz has a flanged bolt that goes into the drive shaft; however, without the holes for the keepers, I am not sure if I can use the original flanged bolt but instead put a stud in with a heavy hex nut and a roll pin against a flat like how I have seen others do it. Or is there a way to use the original flange bolt?

as long as the sleeve is in place the "shim"can go where ever it needs to so that it creates a straight chain run between the two sprockets.
once you start modding there is no right or wrong just whatever works :whistle: .

you could loctite the stud in the shaft and drill a crosshole in the end of stud the nut will go on and use a cotter pin to secure the nut from backing off .

leon

I have been making slow by steady progress, sorry for not keeping the thread up to date. I found a stock JT Sprocket from a Tomcat that had the appropriate offset to line with the rear wheel. Everything fits like it's meant to be there. Based on the offset, I think I will probably not bore out the jugs while I have it apart that and I don't have the monies to do so.

I would accept any suggestions in how to safety wire the bolt into place. I put some medium duty thread locker on the threads for now. Truthfully, I am just looking for a cruiser bike to go on short runs to the ice cream stand and bike nights. Not a runner to hussle street racers. This is the other reason I am not leaning towards not punching out the jugs while I have them off.

Some more pics from my installation of the chain and front sprockets. Currently have the engine torn down hoping to put it back together once and for all to solve the oil leaks that took old red out of service 12 years ago.

I welded in a new steeing stop for the new front end. It works perfectly. Unfortunately the steering damper from the gsxr fork binds before the steering stop actually does anything. I found my plan to use the clip on's won't work as there won't be any room for my hands between the grips and the gas tank. I have to save my pennies for a cognito moto top triple clamp to mount normal super bike handle bars.

you won't be disappointed in the cognito stuff it is top notch.
i have an upper triple going on a cb project.

leon