The Friendship Bike - NobleHops restores a 75 Z1

I've been using Pirelli Sport Demons for several years, and I really like them. Ed

Ed, what size rims do you have?
Steve

NobleHops wrote: Took me three tries to get the front wheel started in the correct orientation, and then of course it tumbled to completion. All is well. In my next life lacing wheels will be fast and intuitive.

I like to mark a "key spoke". Basically, take one spoke and put a small centerpunch (or whatever) on the corresponding hole in the hub and rim. Then start with that key spoke and everything else will lace up easy.

Looks nice so far!

swest wrote: Ed, what size rims do you have?
Steve

My stock rims are 1.85 x 19 on the front and 2.15 x 18 on the rear. I run 100/90-19 Pirelli up front and a 12-/90-18 on the rear. I find those size tires to be ideal. In the past I used 130/90-18 on the rear, but I eventually realized the tire's cross-section was distorted because it was pinched on the narrow rim, and it did not put any more tread on the street than a 120. Ed

Kidkawie wrote:

NobleHops wrote: Took me three tries to get the front wheel started in the correct orientation, and then of course it tumbled to completion. All is well. In my next life lacing wheels will be fast and intuitive.

I like to mark a "key spoke". Basically, take one spoke and put a small centerpunch (or whatever) on the corresponding hole in the hub and rim. Then start with that key spoke and everything else will lace up easy.

Looks nice so far!

That's a great idea - first spoke to the right of the valve stem, that way if I'm swapping rims it will still be relevant. Yeah, it's all about the first course, isn't it? Once that's done, it's fun and zen-like.

Thanks Kid!

650ed wrote:

swest wrote: Ed, what size rims do you have?
Steve

My stock rims are 1.85 x 19 on the front and 2.15 x 18 on the rear. I run 100/90-19 Pirelli up front and a 12-/90-18 on the rear. I find those size tires to be ideal. In the past I used 130/90-18 on the rear, but I eventually realized the tire's cross-section was distorted because it was pinched on the narrow rim, and it did not put any more tread on the street than a 120. Ed

Thank you guys, this is great info and just what I needed. I'm off to go order up some tires and rim strips.

OK, time for an update to this thread, lots of progress to report.

The last of the fork bits came in so I got to reassemble the fork,

Removed the springs and emulators, installed the oil and set the height:

Great MotionPro tool - set the desired height, clamp the donut to that height, suck out the excess. Mine took 225ml to yield 140mm of 'air spring'.

Install the dust seals and caps, and done.

Quick test fit for no good reason . More on that in a moment.

More...

OK, remember when we were talking about this? The top clamp is sitting about 3-4mm too high on the steering stem, after I installed the AllBalls tapered steering head bearings.

The AllBalls tapered steering head set is about 3-4mm taller than the stock bearings, and that naturally pushes this top clamp up by that amount. Here's why this matters:

See that gap above the ears? That's making everything up front loose. And that gap is...(wait for it!) 3-4mm.

So we took it back, from the bearing locknut. Managed to get it flat in the lathe and skimmed off a skosh over 3mm. It's 8mm thick, so it's still plenty thick to do what it does.

And now there's no gap, and the ears fit snugly and don't rattle:

...and this is sitting down on the stem now too, nearly flush.

And I confess that was bugging me, and I might have let the fit of the top clamp go, but when I realized the fit of the ears was going to be loose, this seemed necessary, and worth the 30 min detour. I'm happy with it now.

Moving on...

Got my tires, tubes, rim strips, got the wheels all trued-up, installed new wheel bearings and seals, good to go.

Trotted them down to my local, who kindly mounted them up for me:

Flapped-wheeled off some excess powdercoat that was interfering with the fit of the new rotors, chased all the wheel threads, installed the front rotors, with new bolts and lock washers. Just need to torque them to spec, bend the washers, and install the speedo drive, (which was just repainted and is drying overnight) and the front wheel can go on.

Finished up today piecing together the parts for the front turnsignals and headlight bucket, installing new grommets, etc.

Tomorrow I'll put the rear wheel together. replate the locknut now that I know it all fits well, and see if I can make this thing a roller, always a happy milestone.

Stay tuned!

You don't have rubber spacers up there? You're supposed to.
Steve

swest wrote: You don't have rubber spacers up there? You're supposed to.
Steve

I was wondering about that, just for rattles, Don't see them on my parts diagram! So "no", I don't.

Hate to put you up to it, but do you have a parts diagram that shows it and it's part number?

N.

What "rubber spacers" where?
Is this referring to the rear wheel hub dampers or possibly to the rubber grommets used in mounting the headlight shell?

Good Fortune!