Kz440 Redemption

Jbosh, I just saw your PM, I can't see them on my phone for whatever reason. I will get back to you when I get home and have access to a desktop.

Dom, thanks a bunch! I really appreciate it. Btw, how much more riding time do you have before you plan to winterize?

Paid a visit to the motorcycle shop and inquired about 1-1/2" male to female exhaust pipe extensions with a 5-10 degree bend. Thinking this will be the easiest solution for moving the exhaust away from the belt. No part solution yet. Apparently this is really hard to fab well.

tk11b40 wrote: I am scanning your thread. I owned one of these when it was brand new. I had a very similar noise after about a year. It turned out to be the vacuum diaphragm in the fuel petcock.

Drove me crazy at first, I kept adjusting the valves. lol

I had no money and a good friend who was the local tech. he listened to the bike, pulled the diaphragm out of the petcock (it turns into a manual when you do that)..25 minutes later..no noise.

Tk, how do you remove the diaphragm? I'm unclear concerning the terminology for the petcock. I have fully disassembled and cleaned with carb cleaner though. Any direction is helpful.

I actually have never winterized a bike before. The closest thing I have done is put a tender on the battery when the temperature drops, but I try to ride year round. Last year the coldest my 750 would allow me to start her up was 17 degrees fahrenheit. The riding is mostly short 5 to 10 miles trips to the grocery store of the gym. Nothing crazy, just enough to get the bike nice and warm, and my riding fix.

I will probably winterize the 440s in December or January. It really depends on what kind of winter we have this year. The last few have been pretty tame.

I have found it is better to run the bike once a week or so during the winter rather than let it sit for months without running. Not only does it keep the battery charged; it prevents muck from forming in the carbs and it keeps oil on the cylinder walls and other internals. When it's too cold to ride or when there's snow on the road I let mine idle in the driveway for 10 - 15 minutes until the mufflers are starting to get hot. I do normally add Sta-bil to the fuel tank when i fill it up for the winter, but that may not be necessary. Another advantage to this approach is that when that first, somewhat warm day occurs the bike will start right up and is ready to ride. Ed

Dom and Ed, thanks for your wisdom there. I have stabil but I had wondered about the carb and oil curculation as you mentioned Ed. Temps are dropping below freezing in a week. This is Canada afterall.

On another note, I discovered a random bag of fasteners and found bolts for the fuel tank lid and petcock anchors! The other win was the paint roller reinvented as a spring puller. Just yoink the handle and bend a hook! The roller works great for a grip! Now you know . Rear brake is set. Now just to get the signal lights working again... They were working. Lost them and the brake light this week. I'm wondering about the signal relay (original?) and the LED brake resistor as weak links. I'm confused tonight as my signal light relay only has 2 wires? I was definitely expecting 3.

Not done yet...

4 screws on back. I can't remember but believe the diaphragm



is also a seal so you may have to just remove the spring this disables the vacuum operation. You just leave it on "PRI" to keep fuel running.

www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/1981-kawasa...d5/o/m150576sch87091

Or for about 20 bucks, you can buy a new diaphragm.

650ed wrote: I have found it is better to run the bike once a week or so during the winter rather than let it sit for months without running. Not only does it keep the battery charged; it prevents muck from forming in the carbs and it keeps oil on the cylinder walls and other internals. When it's too cold to ride or when there's snow on the road I let mine idle in the driveway for 10 - 15 minutes until the mufflers are starting to get hot. I do normally add Sta-bil to the fuel tank when i fill it up for the winter, but that may not be necessary. Another advantage to this approach is that when that first, somewhat warm day occurs the bike will start right up and is ready to ride. Ed

Good to know that I'm not the only one. I thought I was just being lazy or to stubborn to call it quits for a few months.

My soon-to-be brother in law took a peek at the bike. Wiring is being corrected . Put a new tridon 2 pin 12V variable signal relay in to speed up the now slow signal lights after swapping out the stock a while back. In the process, we learned that the rear brake light from Dime City is supposed to be wired slightly differently with the yellow as ground. www.dimecitycycles.com/slim-red-led-cat-...tml#customer-reviews

Now have working running lights (headlight has been bypassed however with halo directly in to the power) after a plug was found partially connected. Right in front of my face. But all lights work. Wait for it... Now the horn goes off when you turn the key...

The world just keeps going around and around lol. Header extensions with a 5 degree bend in them are on their way from England now. Was terrified trailering the bike over! When you see your hard work bounce in a trailer...

Just might have to trade the tires for skis and a tread at my rate :lol:

Quick update: I am still really really wanting one ride before the snow comes! Just got married off and my Mrs isn't hating the bike or wanting it to disappear so I feel I chose well :woohoo: .

Waiting on those exhaust sleeves with a 5 degree angle in them to bring the exhaust away from the belt and body. I've been waiting a month... England can hurry up a bit eh.

I'll post a further update pic when I can. Head hadn't been in the project for a bit. Priorities are changing. Marriage then bike. This is good .