First Ride: Three new problems.

Yep. I have used the technique suggested by Clutch (spraying starter fluid around likely air leak points), and I'm confident that there are no air leaks around the boots or box. In all honesty, the first time I went through the carbs was kind of half-assed, so I'm doing all of that really carefully this time. I'm sort of hoping to be at least close on these pilot screws before I put in the required plugs above them. I've posted this question in the carburetor section here (with pictures from the shop manual) but haven't found an answer.

So, I think that what you suggest is what I'll probably do: Open the screw 2-3/4 turns (or split the difference with Germany and open them 2-1/2 turns) and see what happens. I'll need to block off the top of the screw with something before I glue those plugs in. Have any ideas for that? Tape kind of sounds like a bad idea, given that there is a vacuum there.

Don't bother with the small metal plugs that go on Over your Mixture Screw from the outside of the Carb. If they have a plug on the Inside, covering the Pilot Jet, that one be sure to install.

Motor Head wrote: Don't bother with the small metal plugs that go on Over your Mixture Screw from the outside of the Carb. If they have a plug on the Inside, covering the Pilot Jet, that one be sure to install.

Well, if I can really skip thos plugs, that'll make the process a whole lot easier. Thanks, Motor Head.

The real reason for them is for Anit-Tamper, Emissions. The setting was made at the factory, meeting the Emissions requirement for the year. So they cover it so the Average guy doesn't make it richer, thereby creating higher Emissions.
But a good thing they do is to provide a Weather Cover for Screws that are Top Mounted in a Well, which can collect moisture. Only a problem over a long term situation like out door storage.