The main problems would be that the shafty swingarm doesn't have an "axle" running through it like on the cop bike. There are two small shafts on each side that pivot on needle bearings. In order to use the swingarm off a shafty you would have to weld and drill the frame on the cop bike and I think this wold be pretty much precision work as these pivot mechanisms are pretty complex work. The shafty swingarm integrates a tube for the drive shaft and bolts to the rear drive unit. You would have to use an ST engine that mounts differently than an 82-05 cop bike engine and would require some serious welding on the cop bike frame to get the motor mounts located.

Yes the font bevel gear. Pic attatched. I did not get a chance to look at the clutch but after thinking about it, I am pretty sure that is what happened. I dont remember seeing a pin to push out on the shaft coupler. From what I could see, the only way to separate it, was to unbolt the swing arm since the shaft goes through it.

I need to get the o-ring where the shaft goes in #92055 on the diagram. I think that is my only leak now, since it only leaks while the engine is running. It used to drip constantly. I just am dreading tearing all this down again. At least since I did it once already, I should be able to do it in less time. I just wish I had a lift. My legs are still sore from bending down for so long.

just measure your swingarm where it pivots in the frame, and either trim or shim a gsxr arm to fit. i had to trim about 1/4 inch off(1/8 from each side) of my zx arm to get it to fit

wiredgeorge wrote:

oldkawman's site and choice of photos doesn't enthuse me. I have three daughters and three grand daughters and think that the guy's taste is questionable. The guy's tips are also questionable.

If you blueprint a KZ900, it will make about 70HP stock with NO other mods. If you weld the crank (I can do this in a few minutes), it will make about 70HP. If you take the head to a reputable tuner who has a flow bench, and get the head ported and polished it will make about 70HP. If you punch the engine out and use high compression pistons, put some cams in and know how to degree the cams, use some bigger carburetors and get the head cut for some big valves and such, you will get perhaps a 100hp at the rear wheel tops. The 600cc crotch rockets can make 100-110hp at the rear wheel out the showroom door. OK... you still need some help so you put some beefier pistons in with a shade lower compression and run a juicey bottle... now you will outrun the kids on a $6000 crotch rocket but you have spent a bit more just to fool the kiddies. It can be done.

As far as stoplight to stoplight drag racing, I can typically beat most 600cc bikes off the line and get to the next stop light a bit faster as those things are not intended for drag racing and the kiddies who ride them usually end up smoking the back tire or in a giant wheelie... That is why the GS1100 chassis was valued as a drag racer... it was LONG... the longer swingarm painted black was probably the BEST suggestion for beating the kiddies from stoplight to stoplight as well as knowing how to launch. That is far more important for a couple hundred yard drag race than the engine mods which will only make an inexperienced rider look even more inexperienced with more power on tap... anyway, this is getting pretty far afield from an engine topic and probably more appropriate in chit-chat.

Austin, you will get lots of opinions on block sizes and such but APE Jay is a pro and as a pro he won't tell you something that will cause his shop to look silly. His recommendations will be conservative and if you get with him and he gives you a shopping list of block/piston combos, cams and engine mods, you can bet that this is based on someone else already being the test case. I would give him heed. We have folks that have far exceeded Jay's recommendations as far as how far to take street mods and their bikes live and work on the street but I tend to be more conservative as I get older. Besides, I used to drag race GS1100s and not Kaws so what do I know hehe

yeah to say oldkaw guys site is questionable is putting it mildly! from what ive seen of his engine assembly shots i feel like i need a tetnis shot just from looking at all the gunk on his motors he puts together.:sick:

oldkawman's site and choice of photos doesn't enthuse me. I have three daughters and three grand daughters and think that the guy's taste is questionable. The guy's tips are also questionable.

If you blueprint a KZ900, it will make about 70HP stock with NO other mods. If you weld the crank (I can do this in a few minutes), it will make about 70HP. If you take the head to a reputable tuner who has a flow bench, and get the head ported and polished it will make about 70HP. If you punch the engine out and use high compression pistons, put some cams in and know how to degree the cams, use some bigger carburetors and get the head cut for some big valves and such, you will get perhaps a 100hp at the rear wheel tops. The 600cc crotch rockets can make 100-110hp at the rear wheel out the showroom door. OK... you still need some help so you put some beefier pistons in with a shade lower compression and run a juicey bottle... now you will outrun the kids on a $6000 crotch rocket but you have spent a bit more just to fool the kiddies. It can be done.

As far as stoplight to stoplight drag racing, I can typically beat most 600cc bikes off the line and get to the next stop light a bit faster as those things are not intended for drag racing and the kiddies who ride them usually end up smoking the back tire or in a giant wheelie... That is why the GS1100 chassis was valued as a drag racer... it was LONG... the longer swingarm painted black was probably the BEST suggestion for beating the kiddies from stoplight to stoplight as well as knowing how to launch. That is far more important for a couple hundred yard drag race than the engine mods which will only make an inexperienced rider look even more inexperienced with more power on tap... anyway, this is getting pretty far afield from an engine topic and probably more appropriate in chit-chat.

Austin, you will get lots of opinions on block sizes and such but APE Jay is a pro and as a pro he won't tell you something that will cause his shop to look silly. His recommendations will be conservative and if you get with him and he gives you a shopping list of block/piston combos, cams and engine mods, you can bet that this is based on someone else already being the test case. I would give him heed. We have folks that have far exceeded Jay's recommendations as far as how far to take street mods and their bikes live and work on the street but I tend to be more conservative as I get older. Besides, I used to drag race GS1100s and not Kaws so what do I know hehe

The early 80's 1000 and 1100 gs arms go right in. i have one and I got a set of shocks from a 77 gs750. I hope it all goes together easy! :ohmy:

My experience is limited to the earliest of GSXR 1100's. I think the older air/oil cooled models are a basic drop in with maybe washer to fill in gaps. Shock mounts need to be welded on for twin shock setup. Pretty sure this forum will fill fast with advice much better than mine.

SO, I've seen a lot of information about swapping in a GSXR swing arm. How can I find out which ones would fit my '77 1000A?!? What years and cc sizes would fit? Is there a site a can cross reference or does anyone know off hand?

Turbo, for a novice builder? Myself I like smaller cc engines with hi comp 12:1 ratios that can still run on pump gas. 36-38mm Mikunis RS carbs. Mild porting with after market cams with under .400 lift. Put some money into chassis, braided brake lines, fork brace and progressive springs, gas charged piggy back rear shocks. A GSXR swingarm and rear wheel is a must.

thanks for the compliments.
as far as frame bracking. so far there is alot, since i was going to put in a 1000 (but things have changed) where the swing arm is bolted to the frame for instance, that is 1/4" steel on both sides (inner and outer of the frame, per side) i will be doing more bracing by the coils and where the tank ends. plus a little more for the mono shock. i have a tendency (spelling?) to over build things!!!!! but they don't come apart.

i will still be cutting the front fender down, just in the very front. i think it looks like a tank. you gotta see it in person, man it is massive compared to the rest of the bikes styling.