Hi guys. I have a question about what's involved in the process of converting a 550 from shaft drive to chain drive.

The engine I have in mind is my 1983 Kawasaki GT550 (a bike widely sold in the UK, which is mechanically equivalent to the KZ550 Spectre shaft-drive model in the USA).
I haven't decided to do this, but I'm entertaining lots of different ideas at the moment. There is nothing wrong with my bike.

Supposing someone were to decide to do this, and lining up the chain and swingarm weren't an issue, would there by anything wrong with this plan:
1) Remove engine from bike.
2) Take out all the crankcase retaining bolts from above and below, but leave the head and cylinder block in place, and remove the shaft drive gear assembly.
3) Tilt the engine upside down.
4) Pull off the lower crankcase half from underneath, and take out the output shaft.
5) Put in an output shaft from a chain-driven 550 (I checked, and the output shafts for the chain-driven 550s all have the same part number).
6) Bolt it all back together.
7) Attach a front sprocket, and sprocket retaining clip.
Fabricate a side cover from sheet steel, and attach it.

The reason I'm asking this is, I've read conflicting info about this on the internet. Some people say that the only difference between the shaft and chain 550s is a longer output shaft on the shaft ones (to allow the damping cams inside the shaft drive gear to go on).
However, others say that a shift drum from a chain 550 would also be needed. It's a bit confusing because I understand there are differences between the 550s and the bigger fours, but I'm not sure what they are.

It would be enormously helpful if anyone could clear things up. I've got the workshop manual and have read everything relating to the transmission and final drive. The manual doesn't say it's possible to split cases while leaving alone the top end. Also, looking at pictures of the output shaft on these shaft-driven bikes (Kawasaki part number 131281043), it's tempting to assume that it might be possible to fabricate a length of tubing, and use it in conjunction with a locking washer, to stick a sprocket on these output shafts. The normal way to install a drive sprocket on chain-driven Kawasakis is to use that backing plate and a sort of circlip. But would it be possible to do that using the longer output shaft that the shaft bikes have , and would it line up with the rear sprocket correctly (if those people who claim that the only difference between shaft and chain bikes is the length of the output shaft, then it should be possible)?

I'm just thinking about possibilities for future projects. Many thanks

So, what should have happened in June happened only in September. Yesterday I finally finished rear wheel. I placed second order for Excel 18″ 2.5″ high shouldered rim as soon as I became sure that first perfectly fits modified hubs of Honda CBX550. Central Wheel Components, UK, fulfilled my order very fast, only few days after its placing. Unfortunately, parcel with second rim arrived into Ukraine in the midst of vacation season, August. It cost me three (3 !) additional weeks of waiting, including two weeks of customs clearance. To release parcel which price exceeds customs limit receiver has to pay tax. I had to call customs three times just to get from them that amount of tax.



However, enough about sad things. After I received second Excel rim I did with it exactly the same things as with first: polished and spoked. As usually I did spokes adjusting and tightening on wheel installed on its place. This time it was swingarm. And as usually, I used two dial gauges attached to swingarm in point of shock absorber mount.



This time adjustment went even better than with the first rim. I managed to get 0.3mm for both lateral and radial runouts (including the zone of welding seam).



Assembled wheel looked gorgeous:











I was ready to put the tire on the wheel.



Now, as both wheels assembled, I could breathe a sigh of relief and say that one third of Kawasaki KZ650 is finished.

Hey lads,

Im still pretty green here and still have a lot to learn about these beautiful old girls so by all means pull me up if I say something wrong
I have 2x 79 KZ1's. Ones turboed and the second is a half scratch built ST

The first one I acquired was the turbo which had been parked up for 10+ years in a chook shed and in very poor condition and been left in mine now for probably another 5 :S This was built back in the 80's and from what Ive heard was based on a drag setup but used on the road. Apparently it has Mtc forged rods and pistons and a welded crank? From the outside it has a big Rayjays turbo, Austin 1100 carb and water injection using god knows what vehicles fuel pump


The second one the guy had a pretty cool vision but ran out of time & money etc. So this is an ST (shafty) frame for the wider swingarm pivet point which has a 2010 R1 swingarm, 2010 Zx6r forks, Ducati Sport Classic spoked wheels and GPZ1100 body work and more. In the photo thats an 1100 engine but since gone)


And the MERGE


I really dont know which way to head with this thing and totally understand this will be a ground up rebuild but most the funs in the build and have plenty of time on my hands after my recent accident that might be the end of my road riding days ...... for now!
I love building one offs so I want to keep things pretty close to the original styling but stray a little if you get what I mean. Bigger brakes, tyres and suspension are a must (I love racefit builds)
Do I mod up the engine with later model gear ie turbo, carb, fitting etc or try keeping it period, water injection, copper fittings etc?
I know this will possibly get me shot but I kinda dig the gpz tank and tail

Let us have it, what are your guys thoughts?????
Im not 100% sold on the R1 swingarm so any suggestions (if anyone has a chunky spondon lying round hit me up )

I had a real hard time getting the swing arm pivot bearings out. When trying to drive them out with a punch, the inner cages got destroyed on one side, leaving an even smaller edge to catch. I was able to get one side out, but for the other side I ended up purchasing a steel round bar, 1-1/16" in diameter, to press the outter races out. Good plan on paper, but the bearing bores were not machined on center of the tube. Even though the bar was smaller than the bearing bore, it would not go through with out using my 20 ton shop press. I finally succeeded, and with some more dressing down the swing arm will be ready for powder coat. The inner sleeve is worn beyond use, but I found All Balls Racing sells a sleeve almost the same size. It is .002" larger on the OD, so I may need to have it precision ground. Anyone know where to get an original stock sleeve?

As the P series uses the same pivot bolt and bearings as the J/KM series, I reckon the swingarm should bolt in just fine. There are different swingarm part numbers for the police bikes. The C series has a different number than the P1 and it has a different number from the rest of the P series (P2 and newer). I suspect they are minor differences, but do not know for sure. If the P arms are braced in some way, they will also be heavier, which may not be great for racing. If you want stronger and lighter, a Suzuki GS 1000/1100 aluminum arm would be a better choice. You will need a small spacer on each side and will need to use Shocks for a GS. There are also aftermarket aluminum arms, but they can get pretty pricy. If strength and weight are your priorities, a custom arm from one of the members here would be the best combination of strength, weight, coolness and price.
Click on the PDM button below to contact him.

Dr. Gamma wrote: Wait to you measure the clearance between the frame boss and the swing arm bolt!!!!!!! Then the clearance between the inner swing arm sleeve and the swing arm bolt!!!! One of the very first things I noticed on '79 factory Kawasaki Superbikes was a very non-stock looking swing arm bolt and nut. When I put the swing arm bolt through my Kz1000 frame I quickly saw why they used something besides stock parts. There was like .035 thousands or more of play between the two. Same with the inner sleeve too!!!!!

I just noticed that the police model has a different swing arm, it looks beefier and is braced more at the pivot. Will this fit on a KZ1000J/GPZ frame and or other KZ frames?

Wait to you measure the clearance between the frame boss and the swing arm bolt!!!!!!! Then the clearance between the inner swing arm sleeve and the swing arm bolt!!!! One of the very first things I noticed on '79 factory Kawasaki Superbikes was a very non-stock looking swing arm bolt and nut. When I put the swing arm bolt through my Kz1000 frame I quickly saw why they used something besides stock parts. There was like .035 thousands or more of play between the two. Same with the inner sleeve too!!!!!

I then had my favorite machine shop make me up a few oversize swing arm bolts. They also made me a tool that kept both sides of the frame in alignment as I hand reamed the frame bosses to size of the new oversize swing arm bolts!!! I have to lightly tap the new swing arm bolt into place on my Superbike frame. My machine shop then honed the inner swing arm sleeve to have only .001 thousands clearance between both. In the end I now had a swing arm and frame that had zero play between the two!!!! Just imagine if you have like .035 thousands side to side at the swing arm pivot point. How much side to side movement would you have at the rear axle!!!!! Same thing applies to the play in the motor mount bolts on the Kz1000 frames. If you run ream fit oversize bolts, the motor now becomes part of the frame.

I used to eyeball the factory Superbikes and check out all the things they did to their bikes. I would photograph everything on those bikes from end to end. Sometimes the factory guys got a little annoyed at me hanging around and taking so many photos!! The Honda guys were the worse in trying to get in the way of me taking some closeup photos. I got many of my ideas from just checking out the factory bikes. Why copy the bikes that run in like 10th place or so. You check out how the winning bikes did things!!!!

Back in the day, installing an aluminum swingarm from a Suzuki GS 1000 / 1100 was popular. It is a very straight forward swap. Usually just a washer or two on each side where the pivot bolt goes through, and installation of shocks with a clevis rather than eye on the bottom.

There are new aluminum arms available if you don't mind the price.

I use a Pitbull rear swingarm stand for my RZ500. Works great.
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You can move the shock mounts to raise the back end and I suspect they cut or put shorter springs in the front end. Is the frame raked? Pics of the steering head would help.
Steve