Yeah the good riding weather is coming soon. Down here summer we're shut ins and most of fall/spring we get to RIDE. :woohoo:
Too bad the Slow Birds have to come down here to screw it up.
You scored on that engine. Those look like the early Wiseco K1015 pistons. They don't make them anymore but the new rings will fit.
I have three good ones in case you need one. Nothing wrong with the old style.
Steve

It's 1/1/2" longer, thicker metal, more reinforced in key areas and needle bearings in the pivot plus it was $55 delivered. It wasn't a bolt on and go application. The pivot tube is larger so the stock end caps wouldn't work. I had to adapt washers to fit around the inside bosses to act as thrust washers to prevent side to side play. 1/4" I also had to shave the inner races to fit. I may have to add two thin washers in the future if side to side play develops. So far so good for now. If anything happens I'll post it here.
Steve

I'm in the process of acquiring parts for a future build. I have 96-97 ZX9R complete front forks. The '77 frame has been thru powder coat. I also have the GS1100e Swing arm. I want to get a custom triple tree built. Based on a post from Scirocco recently I found the ZX9R forks are 775 MM top of tube to CL of axle. I measure the stock assembled 77 fork and its 776mm. I read on all of the swap postings that the ZX9R are shorter and will change ground clearance and trail. I don't see that unless it because everyone is using the OEM ZX9R trees with the Kz stem swapped in. I look at the Kz OEM upper tree of the '77 and they appear to have a drop built into them. How do I measure that drop so I can have that built into the custom triples I want to have machined?

No idea about your specific bike but this is one of the joys of bike building. How to get something to fit that wasn't designed to fit. Be prepared for many of these magical moments.
Like I said with mine,I was lucky and got away with it. Don't know what I would have done otherwise. I never even considered that it might be a problem. I know that some old cafe racers used to hammer dimples into the front of the tank to accommodate clip ons. It might work but a bit drastic though.
If you have access to the ZX10, you could measure the top yoke and make a copy out of wood. Offer it up to your bike and see how much of a turn radius you get. Lifting the tank might work but it would probably ruin the lines of the bike and look crap. Don't know. Maybe others here have a suggestion.
More things to think about are matching the wheels. If you use the ZX front wheel what are you going to do on the back? Will the ZX rear wheel fit? What swingarm to use? How to deal with the chain offset?
Also, ground clearance. Expect the new forks to severely lower the front end. Whats that going to do to your exhaust downpipes. I used the ZX9r forks which were meant to be the longest of the Jap USD at the time. I still had clearance problems and had to fit extensions to the fork tops to bring everything up a bit. (So, if you get a chance to measure the top yoke,you should also measure the fork length with the wheel to see what your,e in for.)
There are many more of these issues to think about, the ones above are just what comes to mind right now. Best thing to do is read as many build threads as you can. A lot of people here have gone through the same thing and there's a lot of info on what can happen and how to get over it.
Good luck.

Marty. Funny you posted today, I just had a memory flash wondering if you received the bar. I was really disappointed when I removed the shock nut and the large washer and found the cuts. It was a really nice stay but for the hack. Happy to pay it forward.

I love seeing the GS 1100 e swings arm. Along with the ‘76 900 project, I’m gathering parts for my next custom build. Using a ‘77 Ltd 1000 frame with the 1100 e swing arm and a ZX9R front end that Billet Bike Bits is making a custom triple tree for the conversion.

Agains thank you for the donation to the site in my name... Good luck on your projects.

Hi Matt! Forgot to mail you. Bar came and is so nice, I'll leave it chrome. But? Yes for the Red Neck Engineering? I'll give them credit! The cut lines were nice and clean! :laugh: I got this simple look going. I am going to take apart and rake frame this winter. Plus, paint before winter sets in. I put another $20 1978 KZ400 18" rim for front. Did another disc project. I took the 1C rotors I had and ground them down to 5mm from the single 7mm. size. Ben Beasly ( He still makes fiberglass parts) sent me an old school Z1 18" drag bike fender! Stuff all looks good together, I cut back the tail light bracket in 1/2 and re-welded it to tuck in. And My luck! The way the sprockets are! The bike came with a 13 tooth counter shaft already! I was going to downsize it. Already was. 4 gears in the 1/8 mile! The chain adjusters are all the way forward tight! I'll have to down the rear to take advantage of that extra inch of swing arm. Thats what I wanted the GS arm for to bring wheel back a little more. I'll take care of it. Here's a couple pics. Sorry to babble on!

Hope your moving along on your stuff. I just tinker with with stuff. Regular life comes first...

But Thanks again for the part.

Marty in Buffalo

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationDo you have any dimensions ID/OD of the ball Joint?



www.kugellager-express.de/wartungspflich...2e-offen-12x26x15-mm

Welcome to Kzrider!!

The Kz550H1 (Gpz550 mono-shock) was officially a 1982 model, which matters for part numbers etc. It may have been built in 1981, but was actually a 1982 model. (The official 1981 Gpz550 had a dual-shock swingarm.)

The Kz550H model originally came with TK26 carburetors, as you said. And it sounds like someone put in a Zx400C2 engine.

There are a few variations of the TK26 carbs and not all internal parts are interchangeable. There is also a TK27 carb that is similar so you want to rule out having those. Things to look for are the pilot plug inside the bowls and intermediate circuit. Also, the idle-speed-knob located between bowls #2 and #3, as opposed to a remote knob located at the end of the rack. Those things help identify which carbs you actually have. The TK26 and Tk27 will interchange as a set.

Here's a link to a website for the TK26 carbs that came on the H model. (It also has some info for the other TK26 carbs and the TK27 carbs.)
s3.amazonaws.com/gpzweb/TK26mainPage/TK26mainPage.html

You got my gears spinning, hopefully the A4 restoration will be done this fall, and I have my next build I’m collecting parts for. It’s gonna be built on a ‘77 LTD frame with ZX9R USD front forks that are blacked out, a Gs1100e rear swing arm powder coated black. I want to do black hubs black and rims with Gold spokes, now you got me thinking the spokes and rest of the hardware should be zinc chromate also. I have black tank and body work already done with blue ghost flames. The engine is gonna be black krinkle paint with polished side covers. They will help tie in the chrome fenders. I think you just gave me a great idea. I originally thought I’d black zinc the hardware. But the chromate would tie in with the spokes... I like it. Thank you. I wonder about how the low rise superbike bars would look zinc chromate? I was thinking gold but didn’t want it to overwhelm, the zinc chromate will be perfect.

EDIT: Add the goldish tone from the Delkevic and I’m popping in tall cotton. Wow, thank you!

Thats essentially how the oil cooled GSXR frames were designed, maybe marginally bigger on the cross-member, but that portion was a cast aluminum piece. They were not not known for their rigidity but they were competitive bikes in their day. That being said i think it would be worth it to brace the frame there regardless. including by the steering neck, and upper backone. All the flex the swingarm and forks had before is now more directly translated to the frame via the new stiffer suspension components.