So, small update, the Suzuki swingarm is due to arrive tomorrow. That'll be fun. Also ordered a set of fork seals & bushings and some fork oil. Still trying to find a suitable set of fork springs without using "progressive". Sonic Springs seems slow to respond. Any other ideas?

slayer61 wrote: I like the idea of the 3 spoke wheels, so I've been scouring fleabay for some "modernish" replacements. Something from the second half of the 80's!

The Swingarm is officially on it's way out, as an aluminum replacement from a Suzuki is inbound from a member on GS Resources.

Brakes will have to wait until I find out exactly what wheels end up on it. I can recommend the 16mm radial brake MC from Braking. I have one on my bike & I like it a lot.

Thanks for letting me share fellas.

Check out webike.japan they have everything you need to replicate a high end AC Sanctuary replica. I've had no problems ordering and deliveries.

The companies that provide the best parts I've found are, PMC, JB Bito, Yoshi. But there are many other smaller companies that have cool parts...even NEW wiring harness's complete.

I used 18" wheels because I wanted to keep the same geometry and really wanted a poor mans S1 replica.

I bought a GS 1100 rear swingarm as well, and looked at fitting it, but it was iffy on 18" 160 size tires and clearing. It also put the rear eyelets back I think about and inch.

I like the idea of the 3 spoke wheels, so I've been scouring fleabay for some "modernish" replacements. Something from the second half of the 80's!

The Swingarm is officially on it's way out, as an aluminum replacement from a Suzuki is inbound from a member on GS Resources.

Brakes will have to wait until I find out exactly what wheels end up on it. I can recommend the 16mm radial brake MC from Braking. I have one on my bike & I like it a lot.

Thanks for letting me share fellas.

slayer61 wrote: While I'm here, I might ask about gauges as well. The OEM are gawd awful & very knackered. Suitable replacement options would be gratefully considered.

Oh....where do I start.....

As you saw my 81 gpz11, I've done a bunch. My recommendations below.

1. Gauges..they were butt ugly..I replaced mine with a set off of a 85/86ZN750, bolts right up and looks great. I would also look at the KOSO as well. If you use the triple clamps from this bike, you don't have to mill the GSXR 18" front brake hub mounts down to clear the forks. They are ~1.2 inch wider and 38mm.

2. Brakes, trash those stockers, they suck butt, I bought a set of CBR600F3's complete for $20.00 and they are perfect. One finger stops, using the stock brake master.

3. See my suspension upgrades...if you plan to keep the stock shocks...which are worthless stock form. Short list, RaceTek Emulators and Springs, better oil, 10psi.

4. Rear shocks, any decent upgrade, Ohlins are expensive, and seem to need frequent overhauls. I like the ZRX units and they are cheap.

5. Trash the stock rear swingarm, again, useless piece of wet noodle.

6. Wheels are a personal thing, I like wider rubber, so I upgraded mine. 17" or 18" (GSXR) etc...

7. I never could get my FI to work so I trashed it...I still have some left overs too...and went with Mikuni RS34's with pumpers. LOVE THEM.

8. Ignition, trash the stock one, it's too old now, get a full Dyna with everything, you will be amazed how much better the bike will run.

9. Stronger and stiffer engine mounts, stiffens the frame, better handling.

10. Rear Sets? personal thing..

11. Mandatory in my book, high quality steering dampener, will save your wife's life one day...

Just to start you off.....

577nitro

Fellas, I just wrapped up the upgrade on my Suzuki, well, almost... and so the lift was clear for the first time in a long time. My wife has always ridden & owned her own motorcycles & her big GPz is next up on the lift. Plans include a Suzuki aluminum GS1100 swingarm conversion, fresh brakes & maybe a fork swap as well... we'll see how it goes & what SHE wants!



Wow. Somehow doubled up on pictures... you'd think I had done this before :blush:

So the entire front end has been removed & the front brakes disassembled... What a mess. The fronts were horrible! Z1 to the rescue! pads & stainless lines in the basket.

As my credit card is still smoldering after upgrading the GS, This one will likely be spring before completion.

Be safe guys

Ride report and update..

So I now have a full summer of riding on the GPZ1100 with suspension upgrades...wow what a difference! I LOVE riding this bike! I used it to commute to
work about 70% of time this summer, and have put at least 5000 miles on it. I ride 600 miles a week commuting, about 60 miles one way on back country roads.
Needless to say I really let're eat on some sections....rock ass solid at 100+ no problems. No slappers, wobbles, pogoing...nothing just stable as can be. Power is wonderful now that I have the Mikuni RS34's dialed in as well. It will pull redline in every gear...roll on is massive no need to downshift. It easily is making the same power as my ZRX1100.

Here is what my current suspension mods are sitting at:

1. ZRX1100 rear swingarm with 20mm through bolt (zrx1100 rear axle) upgrade, hole reamed slightly tight for zero slop per Dr. Gamma advice.
2. 1986 GSXR1100 front and rear wheels, for a 4.0 inch rear with a 150 mounted and a 2.75 front with a 110 mounted.
3. Critical step here..front and rear wheels perfectly aligned < than a 1mm off. They were at least 1 cm off when I first checked it! This is key to fixing slappers.
4. NHK high end steering dampener.
5. S1 style lower triple clamp from Motogp. Stiffened the forks.
6. ZRX1100 rear shocks overhauled by DMR Jamie Daughtery << great guy.
7. Installed RaceTek Cartridge emulators both forks with O rings for a tight fit..1.5 clicks in. per side.
8. RaceTek fork springs.
9. Critical point here, multiple weeks testing the perfect fork oil mixture for this setup. For me 20ml ATF with seal conditioner, 30ml 75-120w synthetic gear oil (for rebound), then the remaining 10-30w synthetic motor oil. Also 10psi air per fork. For more rebound add the gear oil in 10ml increments. Caution this only works in ancient NON cartridge forks. I use this same basic formula in my RZ350 also...works perfect.
10. Change the fork oil often, dirt and grit contaminate it causing leaking seals. I found a way to change the GPZ1100 fork oil in about 15 minutes. I use a an old Hyperlube bottle which as a cone sprout. It fits perfectly into the air valve hole (remove the valve) and I have pre measured the oil and just let drain in. cap it and use a bicycle hand pump to put 10psi in per side. ..and Bobs your uncle.
11.Lasty, a Fork Brace.

Before modifying the forks like above, they were worthless...bottomed on braking, zero dampening down right dangerous. Now, they work like modern forks, fork travel is around 3.5 to 4 inches max..no bottoming, no diving on hard braking, and great rebound dampening. They are far less harsh than my ZRX, that just beats me to death. I can go over a real bumpy patched road surface at speed 90+ and it just floats over it...never gets upset. I tried Dr. Gamma's trick of slapping the bars ar speed to try and induce wobbles and nothing...I did this at about 65mph...not 90 like he does..not that brave..

Ride report and update..

So I now have a full summer of riding on the GPZ1100 with suspension upgrades...wow what a difference! I LOVE riding this bike! I used it to commute to
work about 70% of time this summer, and have put at least 5000 miles on it. I ride 600 miles a week commuting, about 60 miles one way on back country roads.
Needless to say I really let're eat on some sections....rock ass solid at 100+ no problems. No slappers, wobbles, pogoing...nothing just stable as can be. Power is wonderful now that I have the Mikuni RS34's dialed in as well. It will pull redline in every gear...roll on is massive no need to downshift. It easily is making the same power as my ZRX1100.

Here is what my current suspension mods are sitting at:

1. ZRX1100 rear swingarm with 20mm through bolt (zrx1100 rear axle) upgrade, hole reamed slightly tight for zero slop per Dr. Gamma advice.
2. 1986 GSXR1100 front and rear wheels, for a 4.0 inch rear with a 150 mounted and a 2.75 front with a 110 mounted.
3. Critical step here..front and rear wheels perfectly aligned < than a 1mm off. They were at least 1 cm off when I first checked it! This is key to fixing slappers.
4. NHK high end steering dampener.
5. S1 style lower triple clamp from Motogp. Stiffened the forks.
6. ZRX1100 rear shocks overhauled by DMR Jamie Daughtery << great guy.
7. Installed RaceTek Cartridge emulators both forks with O rings for a tight fit..1.5 clicks in. per side.
8. RaceTek fork springs.
9. Critical point here, multiple weeks testing the perfect fork oil mixture for this setup. For me 20ml ATF with seal conditioner, 30ml 75-120w synthetic gear oil (for rebound), then the remaining 10-30w synthetic motor oil. Also 10psi air per fork. For more rebound add the gear oil in 10ml increments. Caution this only works in ancient NON cartridge forks. I use this same basic formula in my RZ350 also...works perfect.
10. Change the fork oil often, dirt and grit contaminate it causing leaking seals. I found a way to change the GPZ1100 fork oil in about 15 minutes. I use a an old Hyperlube bottle which as a cone sprout. It fits perfectly into the air valve hole (remove the valve) and I have pre measured the oil and just let drain in. cap it and use a bicycle hand pump to put 10psi in per side. ..and Bobs your uncle.
11.Lasty, a Fork Brace.

Before modifying the forks like above, they were worthless...bottomed on braking, zero dampening down right dangerous. Now, they work like modern forks, fork travel is around 3.5 to 4 inches max..no bottoming, no diving on hard braking, and great rebound dampening. They are far less harsh than my ZRX, that just beats me to death. I can go over a real bumpy patched road surface at speed 90+ and it just floats over it...never gets upset. I tried Dr. Gamma's trick of slapping the bars ar speed to try and induce wobbles and nothing...I did this at about 65mph...not 90 like he does..not that brave..

SWest wrote: You scored on that engine. Those look like the early Wiseco K1015 pistons. They don't make them anymore but the new rings will fit.
I have three good ones in case you need one. Nothing wrong with the old style.
Steve

Thanks Steve, when I get home later today I’ll post pictures of the pistons. I noticed material missing above the wrist pin bore. If you’d look for me and let me know if they are good or junk. It’s missing material above the wrist pin bore and the lower oil ring. Not sure how that would happen everything was in its place.

Yeah the good riding weather is coming soon. Down here summer we're shut ins and most of fall/spring we get to RIDE. :woohoo:
Too bad the Slow Birds have to come down here to screw it up.
You scored on that engine. Those look like the early Wiseco K1015 pistons. They don't make them anymore but the new rings will fit.
I have three good ones in case you need one. Nothing wrong with the old style.
Steve

It's 1/1/2" longer, thicker metal, more reinforced in key areas and needle bearings in the pivot plus it was $55 delivered. It wasn't a bolt on and go application. The pivot tube is larger so the stock end caps wouldn't work. I had to adapt washers to fit around the inside bosses to act as thrust washers to prevent side to side play. 1/4" I also had to shave the inner races to fit. I may have to add two thin washers in the future if side to side play develops. So far so good for now. If anything happens I'll post it here.
Steve