I replied in your other thread, Look at 1986 GPZ100RX for wheels and front end, and an early GSXR 750 swingarm...

Those wheels look like they are 16 inch, if that's the case, they look like GPZ1000RX wheels, swingarm looks like early GSXR750, wheels are definitely not GSXR...

i1.wp.com/www.coys.co.uk/wp-content/uplo...fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1

I believe the forks/wheels/swingarm to be first gen Bandit or GSXR. The swingarm has a home made brace on it.

25 years ago a housemate passed his test and bought a GPz550D1. He promptly crashed it and decided that biking wasnt for him. It sat around for a while but when he decided to get rid of it I bought it. At the time it was running but had bent bars and some other cosmetic damage.

The bike then trailled around with me for the next 20 odd years. I checked it still ran and kept it under cover but never got round to doing anything with it. Eventually I was desperate for cash so decided to sell. Usefully, so much time had passed that it had gone from being considered a cheap hack to a valuable classic.

A friend who had just passed his test was looking for a bike so, just out of courtesy, I told him that I was selling a GPz550. I said that it really wasn't the bike for him as it was a serious project and would take a lot of effort to turn into a useful bike. However; he jumped at it and took on the project.

The engine was running (badly) but the carbs were pissing petrol, the running gear was rusted everywhich way and the electrics were fubar. We decided, rather than refurbishing 40 year old tech, to replace the running gear with something more modern and to rebuild the carbs and lash up a new loom. I did all the mechanical work: fitting a GSF600 front end, ZR550 swingarm and ZZR600 rear wheel and brake. The rear shocks were specced to give the same steering geometry as a 2006 fireblade and, handily, gave the bike a much more muscular stance. The bike was delivered as a functioning machine but needing a serious amount of tidying up. The exhaust promptly turned to lace, the can went missing somewhere, the carbs continued to be a mobile fire risk and the loom was, ah, characterful. Also the engine was leaking oil from a previously un-noticed crack in the lower case.

This is how it was returned to me at the start of lockdown, last spring. The plan was for me to make a new loom, rebuild the engine, sort out the carbs and mount a new rectangular headlight with the original fairing. Yeah, leave me alone with a bike in need of attention and stuff gets done; new horn, cleaned up and repainted oil cooler, new bars, mudguard reversed to look more period, new exhaust sourced and fitted, carbs completely stripped and refurbished, engine vapour blasted and ceramic coated. I sourced a new rectangular headlight from Hella and designed a bracket which was then laser cut and bent to mount the headlight, relays, USB charger and fairing all in the right place. Getting the fairing and the headlight to look right together, and on the bike, was a labour of love on its own.

The engine was in pieces when I got it so it was rebuilt and fitted with ZX550 cams. The carbs were completely stripped and refurbished, float heights were way off and the constant petrol dribble cured by polishing the float tangs, allowing the float valves to close properly. The sump was on and off several times as threads constantly stripped and needed helicoiling. When the bike was finally started there was a serious oil leak from the sump so, after running the bike long enough to flush oil through the engine, the exhaust came off and the sump was dropped again. This allowed me to check for debris and to refit with a new, genuine gasket. The oil leak was cured but you can imagine my reaction when the sump plug then stripped. It was carefully tapped and helicoiled in-situ taking care to catch all the swarf.

So; here she is. There is a constant list of things to do; the carbs need vacuum balanced, the oil cooler isn't quite oil tight, but she starts easily, idles smoothly and, to my eyes, looks fantastic.

Having rode the 500 and 750 Kawasaki triples back in the day. I had my fair share of high speed wobbles in a straight line. Then in the high speed corners the combination of wobbles and the dreaded hinge in the middle. My little 400 triple gave me the worse lock to lock wobble I ever had after the stock swing arm bushings wore out after only its second road race. I had a few wobbles out of stock framed Kz1000's. I had one that my knee broke the outer spark plug caps!!!

I would not ride ANY motorcycle without a steering damper. From experience the best way to deal with a high speed wobble is to get as much weight you can off the front wheel, and slowly roll off the gas. Found that out on my 500 triple when it went into one of its famous high speed wobbles and I slid all the way to the back of a freshly Armor Alled seat and the wobble almost went away. If you have everything right on your bike you can get up near flat out in 5th gear and wiggle the bars back and forth and the bike should not go into any type of wobble!!!!!

I am putting a Zephyr 750 back together at the moment and wasn't very good at labelling bags of screws :S I'm currently trying to put the excentre chain adjusters back in and am having problems with the clamping screws. I know they are M10 x 40 and usually I'd assume 1.25mm pitch, but I have screws with 1.25 and 1.5mm pitch in my pile. Problem is, some of the powder coating got on the threads and niether the 1.25mm nor the 1.5mm pitch socket cap screws will go in easily. I need to chase the threads with a tap, but need to know which one. Can anyone help me out?

Back in the day I ran the Dunlop's that came with the bike. The front was the "ribbed" type tire that loved rain grooves. Switched to the K81 and that stopped but the rear tire was just plain junk. Installed a Chin Shin tire and the bike was more stable at HWY speeds. The Z1's were known for the high speed wobble at 93 MPH not below or above due to frame flex among other things. Changed out the swing arm bushings and better shocks made it better but it still would at times. I gusseted the steering head, and back bone tubes which made it better but sometimes I'd get the nasty wobble again at high speeds. The front end is a weak link along with the swing arm they said was like a "wet noodle" causing poor handling in the turns. There are guys here that make some sexy swing arms or will beef up a stock one to make them more stable. The idea of longer ones is an answer with better pivot bearings and shocks is a good idea but other mods have to be done as well. Not being able to afford a custom swing arm I tried a late model KZP swing arm that's 1 1/2" longer, thicker metal and has needle pivot bearings did the trick. It's a lot more stable at high speed and doesn't want to go into a wobble as I cross the line getting back into my lane but the low speed turning radius is now little wider. Adding a cross tube under the steering head close to the motor mounts made a noticeable difference as well. Next ting I want to do is the fork mod with emulators and a fork brace. It will never be as good as a modern bike but it's better than it was and looks stock.
Steve

Yea I knew I was gonna have to fab some stuff, my biggest problem right now is finding anyone local to machine the pivot bearings . Plenty of engine builders around but none I’ve talk to could turn down bar stock ☹️

ghostdive wrote: If you're planning on installing rearsets, your rear master will be mounted there - might take some clever mounting to make even that fit though, the 1000P frame is strange. You may also be able to have a channel cut/welded into the swingarm but that may be a bit thin, based on your photos.

As for the caliper, it shouldn't be too hard to make a bracket to relocate it to the bottom of the swingarm.

Yea I’ve seen this swingarm on this forum being used with the brake caliper bracket being modified and shock lugs being welded on but I can’t remember where I seen it or how old it was, just haven’t seen it on a police frame so the rear brake master and linkage would have to relocate so I could ( hopefully) keep the floorboards .

Hey all, I came across a 04 636 swing arm, I mocked it up just to see what all I would need to do, I know I got to find a local machine shop to fix pivot bushing I have an idea of what to tell them from pics I’ve found here, but I ain’t sure on my back brake caliper will be cause the shock lugs need to be there ( didn’t want the mono shock). My back master cylinder isn’t gonna work either, need some direction from more experience ppl. I’ll try and put pics in.