if the lower mounts are still the same distance from your swingarm pivot bolt,you will just need heavier springs.if the mounts have been moved back from stock you will need longer shocks and heavier springs.

the springs and the valving inside are going to dictate what will and won't work for you.

if they have the same mounting ends and came from something close to the same weight you may get lucky.

leon

the upper brace? That the brackets are Weld to for the springs?? Removing? I have not- I love the Stance to the bike with the stock springs- I was going to put a MONO Shock on it but i wanted that classic look- an where it (seats) the springs is very durable weld, an gives it a good Visual line, spring running parallel with the swingarm brace-

Pictures even with that hot blonde i just met Doesn't do justice

THE SCOOTER IS SAFE !!

you will not know the length imo until you choose the swingarm and tire profile...but in general 13.5 inches is gonna be okay....are you wanting shocks now and more build later...

your asking a question that with pics of what you have and pics of the swingarm ...maybe folks could help with ideas but help id relative and everyone wants different ride settings

front end on that bike is set dif from stock and this is just as important when choosing rear settings

pictures of your bike now would help

the moving of the shocks top mount was to improve rebound and other handling issues with the original superbikes and limited shocks of the era

wireman wrote:

650ed wrote: I have no personal experience with a Z1 or KZ900, but the KZ650 and KZ1000 didn't have any wobble at any speed when new. Ed

Note: I can say with 100% confidence that the KZ650-C1 did not have any inherent speed wobble when new. Please understand my comment is not based on theory, hearsay, or myth. It is based on my buying a new KZ650-C1 off the showroom floor in April 1977 and riding it for more than 35 years (and I still ride it). For the first 32 years there was absolutely no wobble of any sort at any speed. The shocks on the KZ650 wore out after only 2 years at about 12,000 miles and were replaced with better units. The worn out original shocks made handling in the turns inadequate, but did not generate speed wobble. Three years ago, at approximately 47,000 miles, I experienced a consistent 90+ mph speed wobble because of a bad tire(s). That was the first time the bike ever had a wobble. After replacing the tires the wobble is totally gone. Along with the tires I replaced the steering stem bearings (which had dimpled) with tapered roller bearings and installed new swing arm bushings, but the cause of the problem was the tires.

The year after I bought my bike a good friend bought a new (1978) KZ1000-A2. I rode that bike up to speed and experienced no wobble. My friend and I logged many many miles together, often taking forays into triple digit speeds, and he never experienced wobble. He did not keep his bike as long as I kept mine, but suffice it to say the bike had no wobble when new.

Folks can express different opinions on the internet, and some may have experienced wobble due to bad tires or other components, or even manufacturing defects, and I certainly cannot speak to every model made. However, I can say without a doubt that the 2 models I mentioned had no design related speed wobble issues. If they did, the bikes my friend and I rode would have experienced that problem because I don't believe a manufacturing fluke would prevent a design problem from showing up. Ed

Ya should of tried riding a brand new 77 kz1000,they had lots of issues with pretty much every part on them! :sick: :woohoo:
78 gave them another year to work the bugs out,but between those junk dont-grip tires and the factory shocks and flexing swingarms they were still a dressed up pig on stilts with a big motor in stock form! :laugh:
Good aftermarket rubber and shocks made a night/day differance though

I heard KZs had their share of problems. Guessing its all true? hahaha thinking they were the boats of the motorcycle world

I have the scooter! It is safe...... Now get on that KZ and get your butt up here so WE can RIDE!

Try a Fatbob. Soft as!!!

Very observant !! Yes I believe this to be a polaris harley type thing with two wheels and large mass.

I had fun at the actual Harley dealer, sat on a street Bob. I kept asking the sales guy which bike was which.. you know the Dyna and the willie and the wideglide street Bob 45 sportser XR 1200 and all that stuff. I will say the Street Bob was like sitting in an easy chair, no wonder they are always cruising under the speed limit, why go any faster?

All the cruisers look the same when your ride is a Ducati. HHEEEEeeee hee. :laugh:

Hi, I just bought a 2006 zzx 600cc? Rear wheel and swing arm. It is 2 inch longer than a KZ or Z1
Pretty tight fit between the KZ frame and has a 20mm pivot axle.
But Man this looks like a nice conversion swingarm. I have to weld some shock or strut brackets on the top of it and drill out the frame openings to 20mm.
I did not take any pictures yet. But I think this will work nice.
Rim is 5.5" x 17 Nice for a M/T drag slick. I am going to change the drag chassis I have to this rear wheel.
Now I need to find a matching front wheel.
I don't know anything about these new crotch sewing machines.
But I do know that $50 bucks with the brake caliper is a good deal.
I'll post a picture later at 11:00pm east coast.
Any one know or opinions on this swap?
Thanks

There are several ways to make a project bike, from very low cost to very high cost. If you want to keep cost low, consider using as much stock parts as possible and modify where needed.

You may be lucky and find wheel rims at a breaker that are wider than you stock ones for cheap - just remember to count the number of spokes! Or you can pay for spankers, complete wheels which will be lighter and cost plenty more.

You can reduce the thickness of your stock front disc by one mm very safely and then proceed to drill lots and lots of tiny holes in it. Will make it lighter, less prone to scoring and also trick looking. Costly alternative is to buy a high-priced disc which will be lighter.

The stock caliper will do and will proved acceptable stopping power together with new pads and a braided hose. A 6-pot will be lighter and offer more power, but will add cost plus you'll need an adapter for the fork and whatever disc you're running - and the disc must be thin.

The stock fork can be made better by drilling out the compression damper holes to 1/4in (6mm) and use from 20W (comfort) to 30W (for high speed charging) fork oil. The level will vary the spring rate; if you upp the level by 10 mm it will dive less under braking, 20 mm even less and so on until it is solid and of no use Otherwise, buy something like an USD fork or whatever you can afford. Will be more rigid, but then you must upgrade your frame plus custom-make a triple tree to fit it to your steering stem.

You can live with the stock swingarm or you can easily fit an alloy one from a 1980-81 Suzuki GSX1100E. It is lighter, stiffer and looks more racy. Neither is very costly. Coverting to a modern mono-shock and big swingarm will again increase loads on chassis and require strengtening plus plenty of machine and weld work to fit.

A pair of locally made Ikon shock absorbers will enhance handling in a cost effective manner. Ohlins are just a little bit better for a lot less money, but do look butch. Or go monoshock as above for even more elaborate results.