I have a '94/95 Gsxr750 arm on my '89 Gsxr750. If I recall correctly the arm is not symmetrical. I think the left side bows out more for chain clearance than the right side. Plus the caliper bracket is "armless" so you would have to weld a stay of some sort onto the arm if you flipped it.

There was a non-braced Gsxr swingarm in the classifieds at one time that could be set up with the same wheel fairly easily and the bracing wouldn't be a concern.

Later, Doug

531blackbanshee wrote: both are awesome looking bikes.

the overbraced arms like testa's presents some interesting challenges when trying to dual shock one.

a busa arm with the upper brace removed and an underbrace added would be ideal to dual shock a kz with.
imho,

leon

Leon,
I've thought about the GSXR overbrace problem and that's part of the reason I wanted to see what others might have done, before I told my idea and was thrown under the wheels of the bus.
I took a good look at the GSXR swingarm and see no reason I can't flip it 180 degrees.
I'll have to switch the brake caliper mount and chain wear guard (black nylon piece) to the other side.
The overbrace, would now be an underbrace.
Try to imagine testa's bike.

With the swingarm like this.

I even looked at the ground clearance and it looks like it should work. It doesn't look like the bracing would hang any lower than the underbrace I put on my 1978 LTD.

I haven't done anything with mine.
I now have a 1995 GSXR 750 suspension I'll be using on this bike. I may put the GS1100 swingarm on my 78 LTD1000 this winter, but it already has a underbrace I installed on the factory swingarm.
Not sure what I'm going to do with it now?
Sorry, I can't help you with your polish question at this time. I did do some engine parts that were in bad shape. I just wet sanded them in the kitchen sink when my wife was gone.
Started with 220 and ended with 1500, then a little mothers mag polish.

Can any of you offer suggestions to polish a GS arm? It looks like it has a silver coating on it from the factory? Paint? Not sure but it's not plain aluminum. I don't have access to a blaster. I'd prefer the polished look over painting it silver or black, just not sure where to start on this. Didn't realize it had a coating.

All the pics look great, btw. Can't wait to get my GS arm on my KZ. Thanks!

531blackbanshee wrote: buy some mounts,set em as close to factory position as you can and weld em on !

it ain't rocket surgery :woohoo: !

leon

I wanted to see what it would look like and thought someone might have already done it with a GSXR swingarm.
If I could do photoshop I'd already taken pics of testarossa's blue 78 KZ1000 with the 1995 GSXR 750 suspension

and added a different styles of sport fairings, chin scoop and shocks, to give me a better image of what the end product will look like.
I really like the look of my old 78 LTD

P.S. I was just getting ready to P.M. you back anyway. I'll get you the info you need as soon as I get a chance to go look.

steell wrote: Done it with 83-85 ZX750 swing arms, but never with a GSXR.
Z1 Enterprises has the brackets.

I seen Z1 has them for sale. Do you have any pics of what you done?

Done it with 83-85 ZX750 swing arms, but never with a GSXR.
Z1 Enterprises has the brackets.

I found one thread, but has anyone done this with a GSXR swingarm?
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/406129...opper-thing?start=60

Welcome aboard!

Here are some tips that you may find helpful:

Many newbies and not so newbies run into the same problems or issues with their bikes which could be easily avoided with a little preparation. Here are a couple recommendations that I hope you will find useful.

Before working on or riding your KZ you should take a little time to become familiar with it. Simple things like checking the oil, tire pressures, etc. are explained in the Kawasaki Owner's Manual. If you bike didn't come with one (they normally are in a little holder on the bottom of the seat) you can usually find one on eBay - be sure to get one for your exact year/model.


SERVICE MANUAL

You really should buy the Kawasaki Service Manual for your bike. The factory service manual provides instructions on the various maintenance procedures and schedules for your bike, procedures for diagnosing problems, proper torque values for the various fasteners (VERY IMPORTANT), and insight into how each system on your bike works even if you are not repairing that system. Studying the manual before you attempt performing service on your bike will impart an understanding of the system you are working on which will increase the odds of success.

The manuals usually are readily available for most models on eBay and other sources; but be sure to get one that has your specific year and model in it as there are differences between the various models. I do not recommend Clymers, Haynes, or other aftermarket manuals as I have seen instances where they provide inaccurate advice. You may decide to use those to supplement the factory manual, but in my opinion they are not a suitable substitute. If you have trouble finding one for your model ask us to help.


TOOLS

Before reaching for that Phillips screwdriver to do a repair or maintenance PLEASE do yourself a big favor and visit the following link. It explains the fact that Phillips screwdriver tips will wreck the crosshead screws (they are not Phillips - they are JIS screws) on your KZ650 and tells how to easily deal with this issue so it will not be a problem.

kzrider.com/forum/21-tools/532335-budget...ewdriver-tips#532335

Before reaching for that wrench or ratchet consider the following. The bolts are steel, but your engine and front forks are aluminum. The bolts are much tougher than the aluminum and if over tightened will strip the aluminum threads. Although these can be repaired, preventing damage by applying proper torque will save you grief, time, and money. Tightening fasteners properly requires torque wrenches. Various vendors, including Snap-on, CDI, Sears, etc., market torque wrenches. The two most popular types are the bar type and micrometer type. Either will work, but the micrometer type is a bit easier to use, especially if you are tightening several fasteners with the same torque - such as cylinder head covers. You will need a torque wrench calibrated in INCH POUNDS for many of the bolts. You will also need a torque wrench calibrated in FOOT POUNDS for the larger bolts. Don't try to use the foot pounds wrench on the smaller bolts as it will not be sensitive enough at low torque settings to provide accurate torque. There are many fasteners that require low torque. These include such things as 6mm oil pan bolts, cylinder head cover bolts, etc. for which the torque in 61-78 inch pounds. These low torque bolts require a wrench that is accurate at low settings and this wrench should be graduated in inch pounds. In addition, there are numerous high torque fasteners such as the front axle nuts (51 - 65 foot pounds) or swing arm pivot shaft nuts (58 - 87 foot pounds). These require a wrench that is accurate at higher settings; this wrench should be graduated in foot pounds. Using the proper torque wrenches to correctly tighten fasteners will help prevent damage and contribute to a safe bike. The Kawasaki Service Manual will list the various torque specs for the bolts. I suggest you get the manual before buying the torque wrenches so you can decide which wrenches best meet the torque specs.

Consider buying a can of Kroil penetrating oil and use it to soak stubborn fasteners for a couple days before trying to loosen them. Remember, the original screws and bolts were installed on your bike when Jimmy Carter was President, so many of them may be hard to remove. Kroil can be bought online ( www.kanolabs.com ), at guns shows, and at some other venues.


MOTOR OIL
The ingredients in oils have changed over the years. For example, today's Castrol GTX oil (and pretty much all other AUTOMOBILE oil) is not the same as it was in the 1980's. Back then it worked great in KZ bikes. But, things have changed. Early AUTOMOBILE oils contained zinc phosphorus compounds (ZDDP) to protect engine components from metal to metal contact. This was good for engines, but it was found to be destructive to catalytic converters. Consequently, in AUTOMOBILE oils ZDDP was virtually eliminated and replaced with different chemistry generically referred to as "Friction Modifiers." These work fine and offer good protection for normal AUTOMOBILE engines. However, today's AUTOMOBILE oil "Friction Modifiers" are destructive to wet clutches. KZ bikes (and many other brands) have wet clutches. As a result of these oil chemistry changes a distinction needed to be made between those oils which are suitable for wet clutches and those which are not. That distinction was documented by the Japanese Engine Oil Standards Implementation Panel (JASO). JASO developed a number of different oil specifications for different applications. The specifications that apply to 4 stroke motorcycles fall under the "4T Specifications." Within the 4T specifications the JASO MA class oils are specifically formulated for 4 stroke motorcycles with wet clutches.

There are synthetic, semi-synthetic, and non-synthetic oils that meet the JASO-MA standard and any of them will work ok. However, using oils that are not designated as meeting the JASO-MA standard is destructive to KZ clutches.

Ed

I know I have seen members converting mono shock swingarms to dual shock.
I have a 1995 GSXR 750 suspension, but not sure I want to go mono.
I've been trying different search terms for the last hour to find pics and info on dual shock swingarm mounts, but I'm not having any luck.
Could someone please point me to these threads or pics?

Thanks