tk11b40 wrote: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo:

That was about 8 hours of troubleshooting. I kept thinking "it can't be the handlebar switch, that thing is brand new !!"

Never take anything for granted.
...

I know what you mean. I installed new rebuild kits in a set of carbs and tried them out. One of the needle / seats wasn't sealing. Took it apart again and there was a big metal chip in there! Brand new....still should have checked it.

Lights look cool!

:woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo:

That was about 8 hours of troubleshooting. I kept thinking "it can't be the handlebar switch, that thing is brand new !!"

Never take anything for granted.

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

All fixed !! it was the broken orange common wire inside the handlebar switch. I hope the forum does not mind foul language..but that was a bitch to figure out, soldering it was also very interesting. Wooo- hoo glad that is over.



If you are wiring up LED lights here is the way my LED flasher is hooked up to the stock KZ:

I need some Scotch now....

I am not into dogging the vendors that support our hobby. But never take anything for granted, so I decided to dis-assemble my brand new turn signal switch..and look what I find. The orange wire is common to both left and right, it provides power when switch from let to right.

Orange wire was just inside the switch housing floating about, no longer connected to the directional switch. I will now re-solder this and see if it works.

I surfed the electrical forum, and saw a very similar issue.

This is the current set-up....

Someone please tell me what is wrong here, it looks OK to me.

Ok Need help again !!

I am down to the horn and the turn signals, the horn I will worry about last. The turn signals:

Reasonably certain I need two flashers, one for the turn signal, and one for "hazards". It looks like the two are linked, so if you do not have one, the other will not work. I have purchased a solid state flasher for the LED turn signals, this unit plugged in does not flash, nor do I have power at the signal light connectors.

I have attached a photo of the hazard relay on the wiring diagram. I do not have anything like this on my harness presently, should I have one? There is one brown connector near the fuel tank, and it looks like it should be hooked up to this hazard relay, but I don't see the Red or the orange wire anywhere near it.

I have a 1979 LTD, a set of 1982 police wheels and a 1982 GS1100 swingarm.

I want to find a KZ1300 front rim, add my police rear rim and do a build like mjg 15 did on his GPZ.
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/397729...l=component&type=raw

I have a couple of questions?
1.If I use a KZ1300 front rim. Do I need to use KZ1000 Police rotors on the 1300 rim for brakes?
2. What Police triples would work? Do the old police triple trees use a regular KZ stem for a front end swap?
3. Do I need a 70's Police triple tree to use my 1979 LTD1000 dash? (If so, what years)


Going to mock up the 1979 LTD into something "kinda" like this.
(Nothing I'm going to race. Just a toy to have fun with.)

Thanks in advance

Hey guys,

Last year I bought a 1982 Kawasaki KZ 750 Spectre (and posted about it here). I've driven over 7,000 miles on it since then and have started noticing some problems so I've teared it down and working on rebuilding it. Anyways, I have a few questions that I hope you guys might be able to help me with:

- What is the stock throttle cable length? I replaced the handlebars with a lower style and the throttle cable is now over extended, causing some problems when turning the handlebar to the right or left. If no one knows, I'll take it off and measure it so I can order one a couple inches shorter. I'd just rather know before tearing it off.

- What other starter motors work for this model besides the one that came stock? Ebay is turning up no results for an actual starter motor for this bike, but I'm sure tons of bikes used the same starter.

- Would you recommend updating to steel braided brake lines? I took rough estimates of the front brake lines and I found a set (32" or 34", not sure exactly which size yet) for $36.

- Any tips on where to find the bolts that fasten the rims to the front wheel? As I was taking the torque screws out and all but one of them were fine...of course one of them was rounded out so I'm currently trying to figure out how to get the thing out, but I also need to find a replacement. They aren't standard bolts and I can't find any info on it from part diagrams online.

I have a Haynes manual on its way, so hopefully that will take care of most of my other questions (and maybe even these), but until then I'm somewhat shooting in the dark. So far my rebuild plan is as follows:

* Replaced solenoid relay
* Replace starter motor
* Replace clutch plates (have them)
* Replace brake lines
* Replace exhaust to 4 -1 MAC exhaust (ordered)
* Replace all outside bolts with stainless steel replacements and replace all old/damaged bolts
* Reshape the seat to a flatter looking style. I hate the giant hump in the seat.
* New throttle cable
* Replace auto cam chain tensioner with manual cam chain tensioner (have it)
* I'm having my carbs sent out to be professionally cleaned and synchronized
* Have all engine side covers, kick stand, foot pegs, passenger foot pegs, headlight bracket, wheels, handlebar, swingarm, etc sent out for powder coating (almost done disassembling)
* Get tank and fenders repainted (if interested, I can post my mock ups)
* And now for the most controversial change, air pods. I know I might get some flak from this and I have researched this tirelessly. I really dislike the way the airbox looks and I've grown extremely tired of affixing the breather tubes to the carbs. I have to rejet the carbs anyways due to the 4-1 exhaust so I mine as well go all the way since I already ordered the dyno jet kit.

I'll probably have more questions as I go along, but I'm hoping to have this completed by early August. Let me know if you have any answers to my questions, suggestions, etc. I'll try and update with pictures.

Thank you for reading!

today i put a kz 1000 engine in a cb 750 frame with a gs swing arm and xs wheels pics to follow

Mcdroid wrote:

Jo Show wrote: Thank you. I appreciate the input. Somethings can be worth paying for, but was curious about the shipping charges, etc.
I would like to think I could get things like the Earl's oil cooler here in the States. The closest I can come to the Morris wheels are Marvics at about $1200 each!!!

Shipping charges from the UK can be fearsome...not much we can do about that...additionally, if you are time-constrained in your build...it can take up to a month for material to make it here from the UK...customs issues.

It has been my experience that this may not necessarily be true...
I ordered a Kerker exhaust from Dennis Kirk on line and a Metmachex swingarm direct from the manufacturer some years ago. The swingarm was on my porch in less than a week :ohmy: and the pipe came in later, after 10 days or so? :dry: