Bike Bandit is a great resource for looking at cross referenced part numbers.

www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/1993-suzuki...w/o/m22090#sch248841
#6 looks identical to what I have, and I 'think" mine front wheel is from a 93.

Other interesting thing is that Suzuki is like Chevrolet, they try to use same parts year after year.. For example, I was looking at a 99 Bandit in a parking lot when I realized it has the same front wheel as mine, which is from a 93 Gixxer. So they try to use older gen stuff on the Bandit, from earlier Gixxers.

This schematic is identical to the 93 gixxer, but it is from a 99 Bandit. Pretty handy stuff.
www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/1999-suzuki.../o/m147773#sch273730

Hope you find this helpful.

thanks........ill chave to check if the bottom part is the same as the 93 gsxr

I've been trying to fit this wheel to my forks like mjg15 did on his GPZ550 build
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/397729...l=component&type=raw
but not having much luck. mjg15 said he used a Concours axle. I tried that. It is too short and the O.D. is too small.
Then I thought about a bearing swap from the police rim I have. The O.D. of the bearings are smaller on the police rim.
I have been trying to contact mjg15 also, but without any luck. Anyone have any ideas????


***PARTS LIST***
1978 KZ1000 frame
1976 Z1 motor
1976 bodywork and controls
1980 1000C triple trees
1982 1000P forks and rear wheel
1980 KZ1300 front wheel
1982 GS1100 swingarm

OK,thanks for all the input.Its a lot to think about.
An offset backend is something I want to avoid if at all possible.Im going to go through this step by step and see what I can come up with.
First thing was to check that the frame is ok,so I lined it up on the worktable and hung some plum lines. One from the underside of the central down tube , as far forward as I could get,One from midway on the crossbrace that holds the centerstand and one from the loop at the back of the frame.Then I put a spirit level across the frame in the seat area and got everything sitting good.It all looks fine with nothing out of whack.
I also laid out the GS1100 swingarm on the bench and marked out a centerline on that to check for any problems.
Eveything looks good with that also.Its very square with no offset.The shock mounts,axle carriers and pivot area all line up nice and tidy.

I know that the Bandit600 wheel will physically fit but wont center up it has to move way too far over to the left.
So,that means,I need a different swingarm.One for a bigger wheel
(As Spdygon already said,The GS1100 takes a 140 wheel)
If I was keeping the original CSR wheel the GS1100 arm would be great,a very easy swap,but for a chunkier back wheel,its not going to work.
So starts the search for another swingarm.
SRAD? Zephyr?
Any ideas?

P.S. Once I get this sorted Ill be putting the GS1100 swingarm in the classifieds along with a whole load of CSR stuff
if anyone is interested. I also have the GSXR750/1100 back wheel that i tried first,

Great job on those gauges....
Do u have a part # for the speed cable u got.....I think I'll need one as well.
Thx

bountyhunter wrote:

loudhvx wrote:

Nessism wrote: I disagree that more clearance will cause the valve to hammer into the seat. The cam profile determines the acceleration rate of the valve, not the lash. More lash means the valve just sits on the seal slightly longer is all.

The cam profile, at the heel, is round. This means zero lift per degree. As you enter the lift area, the profile gradually changes from zero to more lift per degree. If you skip over this change area, because the lash is too large, the lift rate, as seen by the valve, suddenly jumps from 0 to some positive rate. The more lash, the greater the jump. The greater jump, the harder the impact.

Just take the extreme cases to see it. Imagine an extreme lash of 1/8". As the cam nose swings around, it will whack the bucket., and conversely, as the valve closes, it will be moving very quickly, then suddenly stop as it hits the seat. Whereas, with exactly zero lash, the cam profile slows the valve down gradually to a complete stop, thus the valve will be closed without ever actually hitting the seat, but it will be closed and just barely resting on the seat.

Looking at it another, simpler way: the fact that valves are noisier when the lash is greater, tells you they are hitting harder. That's what generates the noise.

Hard to believe opening the clearance to the upper end of the specified range would cause any appreciable increase in wear. You're only changing it a couple of thousandths.

BTW: on the 750 twins the original spec was .002 - .004" but later opened up to .002 - .006" by Kawi so I guess that range is safe to run.

When you degreed a cam, didn't you notice the lift-to-degree rate increases?
The further you go into the initial lift area of the cam, the faster the cam approached the bucket as it traverses the lash distance. So if the lash distance is greater, the cam makes first contact with the bucket at a higher velocity... hence impact. The only way you would have no impact is if the cam was always in contact with the bucket (or shim in shim-over).

Obviously, in order for valves to work, there must be a certain amount of lash, or the valves won't close after warmup. More lash cause more impact. So there is a compromise. Kawasaki determined what is the acceptable range for lash as the compromise for acceptable wear. That's what should be followed on a stock motor.

Gags installed, hey look just like the factory did it. Eve though there is Suzuki top clamp, and most honorable modifications from Yankee Ted.

Got the Suzuki Bandit speedometer cable, it fits !!!!!

Powder coated the top clamp... his is an 89 GSXR top clamp with the ignition boss removed, two holes drilled for the pro-

taper bar mounts, and a bracket bolted into the bottom stock bosses for KZ gages

davido wrote: Good luck with your mags Cyclhed,I think they look a lot better than the spokes. My bike came with the mags when I got it. I wasnt sure if it was really a CSR or an LTD..

Spdygon, youre right about the 180 in the swingarm .I know the GS1100 was made for a 140 but I reckon I might be able to fit a 160 into it without too much hassle.

So the search is on for a rear wheel that'll take a 17x160 tire. Im looking for something that'll match with the 3 spoke front ('95 ZX9R) . So far Ive come up with the 650 Bandit, the FZR 600R(94/95) and the ZX6R(95/96).
If anybody has any other ideas,please let me know. Im stalled until I can get this sorted.


(Something that takes a 20mm axle would be good)

Thanks bro! I think you can get by with a bit of offset in the front and rear wheel centerline, but I personally would try to get it as close as possible. Assemble it without spacers at the swing arm and wheel. Have the shocks bolted up. Align the sprockets and then build your spacers. Set the fore and aft of the wheel a bit forward of centered in the axle hole.