Search Results (Searched for: gs swing arm)
Kelly E
Today we put the carbs back on my 74' Honda CB 550 K0. It still has the stock airbox so installing carbs ain't no picnic. We built this bike in 2020 from a beat up roller with the motor on the floor and the top end in boxes. The PO cleaned off the old head gasket with some kind of spinning disc and managed to put hard to see low spots. We had cleaned it up and missed a dimple near #3 during assembly. It held for a few rides before #3 was at 65psi so we pulled the head off and took .004" off the head and .002" off the cylinders.
The bike is #449 of the first 500 CB 550 K models when they changed from the 500-4 to the 550-4. I didn't alter the frame to build the bike because of that. Even the seat still uses the original hinges and lock, I did alter the seat pan. We made a few improvements like converting to needle bearings in the swingarm, tapered roller bearings in the steering head, clip-ons with a 70mm rise, custom made rearsets built with all Honda parts, custom seat, Progressive fork springs and Hagon shocks. The goal was to make it look like a cafe bike built in the 70's.
We'll probably sell it as soon as we have it sorted out and reliable.
The bike is #449 of the first 500 CB 550 K models when they changed from the 500-4 to the 550-4. I didn't alter the frame to build the bike because of that. Even the seat still uses the original hinges and lock, I did alter the seat pan. We made a few improvements like converting to needle bearings in the swingarm, tapered roller bearings in the steering head, clip-ons with a 70mm rise, custom made rearsets built with all Honda parts, custom seat, Progressive fork springs and Hagon shocks. The goal was to make it look like a cafe bike built in the 70's.
We'll probably sell it as soon as we have it sorted out and reliable.
Replied by SWest on topic Long-term rear brake issue -- possibly resolved?
17 Aug 2023 11:19
SWest
Oh sorry about that. It's in the sig line too. Basically I started with a 1981 J1 frame that the PO had hacked up (cut off all the mounting brackets, even those for the seat, for no apparent reason). I found another scrapper for a 1981 LTD where they had chopped off the front of the frame, so I made my own cuts and welded the two together to make one completely intact frame again. And since I had a ton of LTD parts now, I decided to upgrade the bike. Sorting out the wiring harness was the worst, both of them had multiple splices but somehow I got lucky and was able to piece together a complete LTD harness. There was a small difference in the steering angle because I have a J1 frame with LTD forks, but with the help of folks here we worked out that it should actually make it more stable on the highway although it increase my turning radius in the parking lot. So yeah, it's a frankenstein. I'm still considering turning it into a single-seater though, my legs feel cramped up but I'm not sure I have the energy to do a custom job like that.
Didn't see that.
From one Mad Scientist to another with a Franken bike yours looks pretty good. After the wreck I gave up the thought of restoring the bike to a original 1975 Z1b and decided to make it my own. Having a salvage title was the game changer.
In the 80's they weren't as valued as they are now and I was happy to have it back on the street again. Parts here parts there the bike became what I always wanted it to be. The biggest improvement was the longer KZP swing arm. Only 1 1/2" but it became more stable at a ton and still handles like it use to despite the larger turning radius.
It will never be like it was but it's all mine.
BTW she can still go where most HD's wont.
Steve
Rolf1976_KZ900
Hello i have been very busy so hasent had time to reply but now i have checked some more stuff on the bikei only had the bike for 8 days so far and trying to get as much of information i can.The seller provided mewith a workshop manual and 2 great books about the kz models so that was nice.The bike has been very little usedthe last eight years, but had a big service 2019 done at a workshop i found resiepts of that.
Hardrockminer : thanks for info on the coils looks like they are just placed oposite than normal then.when i measured the secondary resistance im not sure but i think the multimeter knob was at 2000 ohmim no good at electrical stuff .But i know that when placing the multimeterknob at different ohm settings i gota open line reading.I have now tested all sparkplugs and they all have good spark with 5 ohm plugcaps .I tested if the spark was better if i installed a 1 ohm plugcap and it looked better,but i only bought 1 cap to test and dont know if itis healty to install 1 ohm caps with the electronic ignition that is installed on the bike?? anyway the bike now runs great .After running the bike for some days nowand had a look at the sparkplugs i did some minor adjustment to the fuel mixture screws because it was running lean on cyl 4 and rich on cyl 1. turned cyl 1 a quarter (15 minutes) in and cyl 4 a quarter out. .The bike runs good now i will check the plugs again in some weeks.You are right the carbs are from a 1977 z1000A1.
Wookie58 : Thanks for teaching how to measure the volt to the coils the proper way. When i got the low 9.88vreading i connected to ground on the cylhead.Now after using the negative batterypost the reading was much better.Also cleaned up almost all electrical connections and used a little dielectric grease on them. several had a little rust or green deposits.Thans for the link to the relay fix i bought a set og headlight encance relay wiringloom thinkin i could use that to the coils,but now i dont think i need to install that.
SWest : I dont know what brand electronic ignition is installed i post some pics .The bike has a acid battery.By the way yesterday while doing a oilchange and stuff i found the venttube for the battery was only about 3 inch long.That will make acid drip on the frame so i replaced that with a long tube that goes all the way downto under the rearswing arm .Is that any issuse with doing that ? i mean maybe the long tube will make a vacumwhen riding sucking acid out of the battery??
Hardrockminer : thanks for info on the coils looks like they are just placed oposite than normal then.when i measured the secondary resistance im not sure but i think the multimeter knob was at 2000 ohmim no good at electrical stuff .But i know that when placing the multimeterknob at different ohm settings i gota open line reading.I have now tested all sparkplugs and they all have good spark with 5 ohm plugcaps .I tested if the spark was better if i installed a 1 ohm plugcap and it looked better,but i only bought 1 cap to test and dont know if itis healty to install 1 ohm caps with the electronic ignition that is installed on the bike?? anyway the bike now runs great .After running the bike for some days nowand had a look at the sparkplugs i did some minor adjustment to the fuel mixture screws because it was running lean on cyl 4 and rich on cyl 1. turned cyl 1 a quarter (15 minutes) in and cyl 4 a quarter out. .The bike runs good now i will check the plugs again in some weeks.You are right the carbs are from a 1977 z1000A1.
Wookie58 : Thanks for teaching how to measure the volt to the coils the proper way. When i got the low 9.88vreading i connected to ground on the cylhead.Now after using the negative batterypost the reading was much better.Also cleaned up almost all electrical connections and used a little dielectric grease on them. several had a little rust or green deposits.Thans for the link to the relay fix i bought a set og headlight encance relay wiringloom thinkin i could use that to the coils,but now i dont think i need to install that.
SWest : I dont know what brand electronic ignition is installed i post some pics .The bike has a acid battery.By the way yesterday while doing a oilchange and stuff i found the venttube for the battery was only about 3 inch long.That will make acid drip on the frame so i replaced that with a long tube that goes all the way downto under the rearswing arm .Is that any issuse with doing that ? i mean maybe the long tube will make a vacumwhen riding sucking acid out of the battery??
Replied by z1kzonly on topic Marty In Buffalo Sayin' Hello
03 Aug 2023 21:54
z1kzonly
Then a Beautiful! 78 Tank, side covers, tail. Painted black. perfect plastics! No cracks on anything tank is fine! The flat bolt on petcock style.
Then I pick up Beasly or FRP, fiberglass LTD small fenders!
Nice Z1 Triple tree set with nice original bolts and guides. Z1 swing arm, with the correct pivot, rear axles.
An od original LockHartd oil coller, the fittings were on the trashed z1 engines. Has the correct bracket and bolt for the Kaws. !!!
It just kept going on good parts!
Then I pick up Beasly or FRP, fiberglass LTD small fenders!
Nice Z1 Triple tree set with nice original bolts and guides. Z1 swing arm, with the correct pivot, rear axles.
An od original LockHartd oil coller, the fittings were on the trashed z1 engines. Has the correct bracket and bolt for the Kaws. !!!
It just kept going on good parts!
Replied by Uncle Freddy on topic CR Special Carbs / '83 650 / occasional single carb fuel leak ?
27 Jun 2023 07:38 - 27 Jun 2023 07:44
Uncle Freddy
ok, I'll try to stay on point for to your reply & questions....so, there are 2 types of piss gas from CRs I've experienced: 1) when the float completely sticks and gas pisses out of the 2 teeny upper vent holes on the back of the carb, literally shooting out almost to swingarm and 2) the carb fills with gas and gas pisses out of the bottom of the carb & air cleaner ......since I have removed & replaced the o-rings & needles, two times I have experienced the 2) type gas piss, and both times it was #3 carb (3rd carb in from left side, the one running richest) ......this is only happening at idle after I come back down from high Rs riding, and it stops as soon as I take off fast down the road ........gas tank, petcock filter, etc spotless, ultra clean .....I will be draining the bowls as you suggest, capturing the fuel and seeing if anything in fuel in bowls .....I'm also going to drop all 4 bowls and look across / measure float drops with bike level on center stand to see if they are all the same ......when I had the rack off for the o-ring & needle replace, interior of carbs were ultra clean.....yes, B7ES standard / factory rec plug, but I have had major top end work (2nd over pistons & rings, A P E valve guides & springs, GPZ 750 cams, etc) so I run colder plug, the iridium BR8EIX ......questions:
can the pilot air screws be adjusted complete in / down / closed ? what do they do ? what air do they control ?
all of my rubber pieces on all 4 choke plungers are hard as rocks, guessing I should replace all 4 ?
what jet having a speck of something in it would cause this at idle but then stop it once bike was flying down the road at high Rs ?
can the teeny vent holes on the carbs and their venting chambers be clogged ? (I plan to blast carb cleaner into & down them and then blow them out with compressed air)
lastly, I think I may send them off for this service:
can the pilot air screws be adjusted complete in / down / closed ? what do they do ? what air do they control ?
all of my rubber pieces on all 4 choke plungers are hard as rocks, guessing I should replace all 4 ?
what jet having a speck of something in it would cause this at idle but then stop it once bike was flying down the road at high Rs ?
can the teeny vent holes on the carbs and their venting chambers be clogged ? (I plan to blast carb cleaner into & down them and then blow them out with compressed air)
lastly, I think I may send them off for this service:
Warren3200gt
Assuming all bearings, wheels, swingarm, headrace, etc are good and correctly adjusted then if you've any stability issues it'll be due to tires/balance.
Z1000'S all had frames made from thicker walled steel tube and don't need steering dampers unlike early 900's and don't suffer from frame flex like they did.
Proviso, the surface your riding on is not full of pot holes! As pointed out by Dr G.
Z1000'S all had frames made from thicker walled steel tube and don't need steering dampers unlike early 900's and don't suffer from frame flex like they did.
Proviso, the surface your riding on is not full of pot holes! As pointed out by Dr G.
Wookie58
If there was ever any doubt that KZR is a truly “global” forum then this stunner from Leonardo (MLMG) all the way from Uruguay should confirm it to be absolutely true. We have all struggled to obtain parts from time to time but when you read Leonardo’s story and see the insane import duties and laws preventing the import of used parts in his country then the end result is even more impressive. Every detail of this bike is exquisite but I especially like the unique use of “Gulf” colours in the paint scheme. I will leave Leonardo to tell the back story
I am originally from Montevideo, Uruguay, and I bought my motorcycle when I was 27 years old in 2007. Parts have always been hard to find and very expensive here, so you can imagine that it was not in the best condition, but at least it was running. I remember going to Kawasaki Uruguay in 2008 to buy the fuel purge key, which cost a whopping $250 at that time. In 2015, after returning from a trip through the country's interior, the motorcycle started making a loud noise from the timing chain, so I decided to remove the battery and stop using it. However, in 2019, I decided to start its restoration.(I have to mention that import duties here are 100% and it is not allowed to import used motorcycle parts).I started with the frame. I had the frame powder-coated and replaced the bearings and swingarm shaft. I also installed new shocks, as the original ones were of unknown origin. I replaced the axles with new stainless steel ones and installed new wheels. I rebuilt the front suspension. Additionally, I installed Kawasaki LTD fenders, as I liked their shorter and sportier look.While disassembling the engine, the first thing I noticed was that the timing chain guide was missing. As I continued to dismantle it, I couldn't find it anywhere, as it had been shredded and its remnants were blocking the crankshaft lubrication. Luckily, I didn't start the motorcycle again. I decided to replace all the engine bearings and install 72mm pistons, as the cylinders were oval-shaped. I also replaced the valves and valve guides on the cylinder head. Furthermore, I replaced the timing chain and gears, and almost all the screws with new stainless steel ones. I installed a new gear shifter mechanism. I installed an electronic ignition, new clutch plates, new Mikuni SR34 carburettors, and a Delkevic exhaust.I also did the painting myself, as I always liked the style of the Kawasaki Z1 Yellow Tiger, and decided to paint my motorcycle with that reference. I also bought a motorcycle lift, an air compressor, and various specialized tools to carry out the restoration of my motorcycle. It was a long and laborious process, but little by little, I replaced parts, improved components, and adjusted everything to work properly.After changing the engine bearings, pistons, valves, carburettors, and exhaust, the motorcycle began to take shape. The Z1 Yellow Tiger-style paint gave it a classic and sporty look that I loved. I also made sure that all the electrical systems were functioning properly, by installing a new wiring harness, voltage regulator, and appropriate controls. The brakes were also upgraded with new discs, rebuilt callipers, and a new rear master cylinder.Once everything was assembled and functioning correctly, it was exciting to see my restored motorcycle come back to life. After much effort, dedication, and investment of time and money in parts and tools, I finally could enjoy my fully restored motorcycle in Montevideo, Uruguay, despite the challenges of finding parts in my country.The restoration of my motorcycle was a challenging but rewarding project. I learned a lot about motorcycle mechanics, gained new skills and tools, and made new friends in the KZR community, and felt a great satisfaction seeing the final result of my hard work. Now I have a fully restored motorcycle that I can enjoy to the fullest in Montevideo, Uruguay, despite the challenges of finding parts in my country.
I am originally from Montevideo, Uruguay, and I bought my motorcycle when I was 27 years old in 2007. Parts have always been hard to find and very expensive here, so you can imagine that it was not in the best condition, but at least it was running. I remember going to Kawasaki Uruguay in 2008 to buy the fuel purge key, which cost a whopping $250 at that time. In 2015, after returning from a trip through the country's interior, the motorcycle started making a loud noise from the timing chain, so I decided to remove the battery and stop using it. However, in 2019, I decided to start its restoration.(I have to mention that import duties here are 100% and it is not allowed to import used motorcycle parts).I started with the frame. I had the frame powder-coated and replaced the bearings and swingarm shaft. I also installed new shocks, as the original ones were of unknown origin. I replaced the axles with new stainless steel ones and installed new wheels. I rebuilt the front suspension. Additionally, I installed Kawasaki LTD fenders, as I liked their shorter and sportier look.While disassembling the engine, the first thing I noticed was that the timing chain guide was missing. As I continued to dismantle it, I couldn't find it anywhere, as it had been shredded and its remnants were blocking the crankshaft lubrication. Luckily, I didn't start the motorcycle again. I decided to replace all the engine bearings and install 72mm pistons, as the cylinders were oval-shaped. I also replaced the valves and valve guides on the cylinder head. Furthermore, I replaced the timing chain and gears, and almost all the screws with new stainless steel ones. I installed a new gear shifter mechanism. I installed an electronic ignition, new clutch plates, new Mikuni SR34 carburettors, and a Delkevic exhaust.I also did the painting myself, as I always liked the style of the Kawasaki Z1 Yellow Tiger, and decided to paint my motorcycle with that reference. I also bought a motorcycle lift, an air compressor, and various specialized tools to carry out the restoration of my motorcycle. It was a long and laborious process, but little by little, I replaced parts, improved components, and adjusted everything to work properly.After changing the engine bearings, pistons, valves, carburettors, and exhaust, the motorcycle began to take shape. The Z1 Yellow Tiger-style paint gave it a classic and sporty look that I loved. I also made sure that all the electrical systems were functioning properly, by installing a new wiring harness, voltage regulator, and appropriate controls. The brakes were also upgraded with new discs, rebuilt callipers, and a new rear master cylinder.Once everything was assembled and functioning correctly, it was exciting to see my restored motorcycle come back to life. After much effort, dedication, and investment of time and money in parts and tools, I finally could enjoy my fully restored motorcycle in Montevideo, Uruguay, despite the challenges of finding parts in my country.The restoration of my motorcycle was a challenging but rewarding project. I learned a lot about motorcycle mechanics, gained new skills and tools, and made new friends in the KZR community, and felt a great satisfaction seeing the final result of my hard work. Now I have a fully restored motorcycle that I can enjoy to the fullest in Montevideo, Uruguay, despite the challenges of finding parts in my country.
Replied by SWest on topic 1981 KZ1000 front fork bushing kit?
31 May 2023 10:13
SWest
That's quite a bit of offset.
Back in 75 me and Larry would see who could turn the tightest with feet on the pegs. I would win most of the time.
He was a short guy and would have to tippytoe at stoplights. We loved how the bikes would handle in tight areas but on the road at high speeds at 93MPH that wobble would come on. You could kinda feel it before it happened so I'd get above it or stay below it if I could. He was the first to have his frame gusseted and put on good shocks. Not having much money I did it myself and Miller suggested I go with a 16" rim to take some of the weight off the front end. I never did up till now. First thing was the 98 KZP swing arm that is 1 1/2" longer and heavier than the Z1 arm I had. That made a big difference but I lost a little of my tight steering. When I installed the alloy wheels I got from Vic the bike became steady as a rock at a ton.
It still feels a little light in the front end up there even with the brace but the 16" rear rim did seem to make it more stable. I see some fork emulators in my future.
www.racetech.com/page/title/Emulators
Going with a smaller front wheel seems the wrong direction unless the rear matches the front then there's that clearance issue.
As I said "you change one thing it changes other things" sometimes not in a good way.
Steve
www.racetech.com/page/title/Emulators
Going with a smaller front wheel seems the wrong direction unless the rear matches the front then there's that clearance issue.
As I said "you change one thing it changes other things" sometimes not in a good way.
Steve
Replied by Wookie58 on topic Gs1100 swap gsxr wheel
14 May 2023 23:06
Wookie58
You will most likely need to remove material from the surface the sprocket sits on (this will involve shortening the sprocket mounting bolts as well) however you first need to mount the swingarm and wheel in the bike and centre the wheel, then fit the front sprocket. Only then can you accurately measure how much material to remove.So when you say machining off the sprocket carrier wich part of the carrier gets the machining? Could someone post a picture?
Replied by chris_heiges on topic Gs1100 swap gsxr wheel
13 May 2023 13:39
chris_heiges
So this is where I’m at, gs1100 swing arm, I ordered the bandit 600 wheel(has the straight spokes), and I got a gs1100 axel.
The wheel is coming with the sprocket carrier, not a rotor. My next question.
I have the 2002 brake caliper. I’m not sure what the factory rear rotor size is on the 2002 kzp but do you think it might be possible to keep the kzp caliper and use the bandit rotor if the rotor diameters are close or same? Or should I plan to get the bandit caliper also?
The wheel is coming with the sprocket carrier, not a rotor. My next question.
I have the 2002 brake caliper. I’m not sure what the factory rear rotor size is on the 2002 kzp but do you think it might be possible to keep the kzp caliper and use the bandit rotor if the rotor diameters are close or same? Or should I plan to get the bandit caliper also?
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