TOPIC:

I will try to post pics today

I might have to get a 10 year old to help me

Hi Mike,

Pics have to be added to posts as attachments, and file size is very limited. I've always used the right click on photo and "send to" ..."mail recipient"..."size"..."small" and e-mail the pics to myself then temporarily saved to the desktop to get the pics re-sized to be able to attach in this forum. Works on the computer at least - every time...a few steps, but 0 hassles.

80+ ft-lbs torque (thereabouts estimate) mid range on 1200 cc Z1R? How do you spell F-U-N?!!!!! Must be advertised "13.5:1" CR pistons... and some well done porting, cams, carbs, etc. Sounds like it would have more than the "street" 10.5:1, or bigger cc, otherwise would not be making torque like that...or geared extremely short. Stock, heavy Z's aren't eager to power wheelie, but the front end must be at least getting a little airborne when the tire hooks. Big Block monsters like the scary 1500 cc Suzuki GS1100ES I got to try out on a joy ride years ago, and my buddy's insane 1400cc 14:1 CR CB1100F are the only normally aspirated old bikes I've personally known that could spin the tire at low to medium speeds in the upper gears in a straight line just by twisting the throttle. I can't wait to see pics now!

-Scott

Oh, forgot why you were here in the first place. If you can't tell exactly where the noise is coming from, don't start taking things apart until you get a skilled and knowledgeable ear to listen to it. Best bet is another KZ engine builder, if you can...

Your engine does not use a primary chain drive, so synchronizing carbs would not likely make it run much quieter, unlike one of the smaller fours like the 650 / 750. It still is a good idea, though. Your modified engine likely has a screw and locknut manual timing chain tensioner like those sold by APE. Be careful adjusting the timing chain tension with a manual adjuster. It is easy to over tension the chain and cause damage if you aren't familiar with one of the safe "rituals". I do mine with the engine cold, rotating the crankshaft with a wrench while using only light finger torque to seat the chain tensioner as much as possible while rotating the crank through at least two full revolutions, then I back it off 1/4 turn and hold while tightening the locknut. I often remove the valve cover while doing this so I can see and feel how tight the chain is. It should be barely taught on the rear (carb side), but w/o any noticeable slop over the idler or at the front.

Steve is absolutely correct - even with your hopped up bike, you still need to get a factory Kawasaki service manual (FSM) for your bike. Most of what is in there still applies...

-Scott

ok listen yes i have a manual,the carbs being out of sync can make all kinds of noise,and old oil makes shafts sticky the cam chain tenchioner has a shaft in a guide hole that can stick,even though it is spring loaded.

make sure it is working properly

I believe we're being trolled. Please do go on mike.
Bill

trolled ????????????????? lol

Did you find the noise?
Steve