TOPIC:

solomrus wrote:

TWT, have you gusseted anything else besides that rear sub-frame?

just wondering, as it looks like you might be adding some flex by taking out some tubing.

tigging it would have been uber-sweet man, did you take any pics of the welds before you primered?

--r

The tubing that was remove was the traingulation turbing for the subframe.

I don't *think* it will cause any added flex on the frame at all to have it setp this way. I can't think of any reason it would anyhow.

Sadly I didn't get any before. I sprayed some primer on there right away cause I'm in MN and it rains/snows all the time this time of year. I wasn't really thinking there was gonna be any way to get pics without the cam until she mentioned that her phone had one on it. lol

i was curious about the welds on the shock/shock linkage mounting tabs, as the welds on that gusset don't look all that sound. might just be the flat-tone of the primer that makes them look cold tho.

i'd triangulate the upper mounting crossbar to the cradle a little bit, just to get a some more structure in the back of the frame. i'd also look into some other gussets over the swingarm pivot points.

just me over thinking it tho.

--r

hey twt

I use this stuff called 'Aircraft Aluminum Stripper' They hold it behind the counter at our parts store called LordCo. (nothing to do with Jesus, or wait, maybe it does) Anyway I was looking at my stripped frame and where I spilled some on my rims, it takes the paint off straight down to raw aluminum. You coat it on, like paint stripper and by the time you have one beer down, its bubbly, and you then spray with a hose, being careful that the excess and gross grey water drain into your neighbours yard. Then youre free to scuff em up for paint, works well if youre lazy, and cheap, and Im both.

solomrus wrote:

i was curious about the welds on the shock/shock linkage mounting tabs, as the welds on that gusset don't look all that sound. might just be the flat-tone of the primer that makes them look cold tho.

i'd triangulate the upper mounting crossbar to the cradle a little bit, just to get a some more structure in the back of the frame. i'd also look into some other gussets over the swingarm pivot points.

just me over thinking it tho.

--r

The primer is a bit decieving for sure. The welds are 100% penetration. I made sure of that being as they are such a critical point on the chassis. You can slack when mounting some things, but anything like this I am EXTREMELY picky about penetration and having amperage set correctly.

I do have some other gusset stuff designed that will be added, but not right yet. The other gussets add a beam on each side of the upper shock mounts up near the backbone tube, two small gussets from the backbone to the paralell tubing under the tank, one gusset across the front just near the header/head, a underbody setup to protect the oil pan/rear linkage and stiffen that area up and extra gusseting to the steering head. I have most of this cut out, but added some to the plans so I still need to do that.

xstreamcanadian wrote:

hey twt

I use this stuff called 'Aircraft Aluminum Stripper' They hold it behind the counter at our parts store called LordCo. (nothing to do with Jesus, or wait, maybe it does) Anyway I was looking at my stripped frame and where I spilled some on my rims, it takes the paint off straight down to raw aluminum. You coat it on, like paint stripper and by the time you have one beer down, its bubbly, and you then spray with a hose, being careful that the excess and gross grey water drain into your neighbours yard. Then youre free to scuff em up for paint, works well if youre lazy, and cheap, and Im both.

Sounds like great stuff. I'll definitely look into it. I think the best bet will be media blasting them though. As soon as I get a new rear wheel that is. haha

just curious here, since i plan on doing some similar work later this year, but how did you test the welds for 100% penetration? is there an at-home kit you can buy that will allow you to do this?

--r

solomrus wrote:

just curious here, since i plan on doing some similar work later this year, but how did you test the welds for 100% penetration? is there an at-home kit you can buy that will allow you to do this?

--r

It's easy. Leave a big gap (1/8") and weld from one side checking to make sure your weld is all the way through, then run a weld along the other side. lol

I got them with the profile matching the tubing so that when gapped the space would be equal all along the pieces. Obviously you need to leave a little gap when welding to get pentration. If you open that gap just a hair more you can weld at an angle and make sure you get all the way through, and then basically stitch the other side. Tensile strength on a good weld like this with material this thick is in the vicinity of 65K lbs or so, so it can take quite a beating.

Post edited by: twowheeledterror, at: 2006/03/14 01:10

do you need lower linkages to run a monoshock? i ask because it is something i have been thinking about. the last time i looked at a monoshock set up was years ago an i thought they had it bolted right to the swing arm itself. can it be done that way also?

sbjones, i cant remember how you did yours, send me some pixs please.

timber wrote:

do you need lower linkages to run a monoshock? i ask because it is something i have been thinking about. the last time i looked at a monoshock set up was years ago an i thought they had it bolted right to the swing arm itself. can it be done that way also?

sbjones, i cant remember how you did yours, send me some pixs please.

You can do it right to the arm, but the ride will be stiffer and the shock will need to be mounted on the upper mount MUCH higher. Something I was specifically trying to avoid.

i understand why you did what you did. i like it alot. i have a shock on the way an hope to be mocking up this weekend. thanks for the pixs cuz it helps me out alot.

timber wrote:

i understand why you did what you did. i like it alot. i have a shock on the way an hope to be mocking up this weekend. thanks for the pixs cuz it helps me out alot.

NP. Let me know if you need any more specific info or pics. I'll do my best to help out!

itimber and twt, i made a tiangle from under the seat by where the battery is mounted. as far as the bottom. i went off the support arm that is already inder the back side of the engine and welded on 2 support tabs for the lower dog bone. looks pretty much like twt, gut i have the shock welded more in the up right position.

like twt said it does give a stiffer ride the way i did it, but it works great for me.

can some one post pics for me on here, mine are to big. timber, i will e mail you pics of mine.