Went to the drag strip last Friday. What a blast! It's been a few years. It's the first time out on a fresh motor. Best time was a 12.23 @ 108 against a vrod. Here's something odd that happened. I rode the bike to the track, raced, and rode it home and parked it in the garage. Then Tuesday I started out for a ride and could not get it above 4k rpms, it just spit and sputtered. At the suggestion of the local bike shop I threw a new set of plugs in it and blammo, back to it's normal bad self! Easy fix, but baffles me how the plugs go bad AFTER cooling off.
The following user(s) said Thank You: GPz550D1, undiablo
Love that model and nice riding too ....... something I always wanted to do from 13 on (more so with a rod) and never came up with the cash and as I look back now maybe was a little too lazy also. Had a few nice street cars till I got married though and had fun with em on the street. Good friend that hung out together moved to with in 10 miles of Byron drag way and raced et racing for years and years with his 67 396 SS Chevelle so he never gave up.
1978 KZ650 b-2
700cc Wiseco kit 10 to 1.
1980 KZ750 cam, ape springs, stock clutch/ Barnett springs.
Vance and Hines Header w/ comp baffle and Ape pods, Dyna S and green coils, copper wires.
29MM smooth bores W/ 17.5 pilots, 0-6s and 117.5 main
16/42 gearing X ring chain and alum rear JT sprocket.
Yes, it's quite the rush to race like that. It's also a lot safer than I think many people realize (like my mom and sister). If you're going to get hurt at the strip then it most likely was your own fault. It's not going to be someone pulling out of a driveway, a deer, potholes, etc. If something does go wrong you at least have the EMT right there to scrape you off the track. I'd like to think it makes me a better rider. At the very least I am very competent at nice smokey burnouts and well you know.....how cool is that!
A well tuned KZ1000 should be a good run for a vrod.
I've raced a few 1/8 th mile on my 650 and have put a few bike length on some of them..
1980 KZ650 F1
Wiseco 810cc kit.
Zukiworks racing ported head.
VM 29 smooth bore's.
Dyna 2000 Ign. w/Dyna mini coil's
APE cylinder stud's and nut's.
APE valve spring's.
APE Track King clutch.
V/H KZ1000 sidewinder.
3.5x18 laced to a KZ1000 disk hub.
150/60/18 Shinko 006 Podium.
63" wheel base.
Back in 2011, I took my then race GPz550 to the 1/4 with my brother for his birthday at Sacramento Raceway. He has a Bandit 1200 (2001 air cooled), and we just ran for fun. Being the first time at the drags on the sticky pavement, my main concern wan not to loop it. It was well over 100* and got hotter before he night fell. Wearing my full race leathers, in that heat, I felt like a baked potato. I beat him off the line every time, but never could beat him to the finish line.
I recommend it for anyone.
Loose connector on the Raptor Shift Light found the next day.
In my first post I talked about having to replace the plugs after racing and that fixed my sputtering problems, well not so! I replaced plugs and revved it up and it seem right to me, however last Tuesday I went to go for a ride and had the same issue. I rode it down to the local bike shop (Zack's Cycle) and had a chat with Zack. I won't bore you with the details but what I found out it that my poor bike was being choked off at the air box. I am running a stock airbox. Zack had me remove the snorkel and the top to the airbox where the air filter goes. BIG difference! Air filter is brand new and only maybe 3 weeks old. My baby needs to breathe! I think the end solution to this is to ditch the stock airbox and run individual air filters. What kind of air filters do you all like? the natural option for me is K&N's, but are there other brands that are just as good with out the K&N expense? I don't want some emgo cheapies.