TOPIC:

I'm trying to get the top-end engine studs out of my KZ400H model without marring them up; I've got a Vise-grips and have tentatively tested one, but they don't seem to want to budge, and the Vise-grips left a not-too-bad mark on the steel; what's a good way to get them to cooperate without gouging the rods? I don't know if heat would help because of how deep they are in the bottom end, but it might...?  

A specialized stud remover can help, but even with one, you may gouge the studs.  If at all possible, I suggest leaving the studs where they are.

Dr. Frankenstein wrote:

I'm trying to get the top-end engine studs out of my KZ400H model without marring them up; I've got a Vise-grips and have tentatively tested one, but they don't seem to want to budge, and the Vise-grips left a not-too-bad mark on the steel; what's a good way to get them to cooperate without gouging the rods? I don't know if heat would help because of how deep they are in the bottom end, but it might...?  

Depending how tight they are you can lock 2 nuts together on the stud and then spanner the lower nut to remove (and the upper to re-fit) As Nessism said why do you want to remove them ?

I have to get the old gasket off and rebuild the top end; it'd be a lot easier if I just took the studs out.  Or is that too easy? 

I do have some wood chisels to scrape them off, I suppose... 

You do not remove the cylinder studs to freshen up the top end.
It is way more work than  working around them to remove old gasket material.
Stay away from the wood chisels,.
I use one of my die grinders with a wire wheel.


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Doesn't that score the surface under the gasket? 

Dr. Frankenstein wrote:

Doesn't that score the surface under the gasket? 
 

A brass wire brush is comparatively soft and won't cause damage.

Dr. Frankenstein wrote:

Doesn't that score the surface under the gasket? 

Depends on the operator.


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FWIW I used a 36" pipe wrench to get those studs out,  but I didn't care about damaging them. "Double nutting" them wasn't budging some of them. They were replaced by APE studs

 

That dreaded SNAP and you're done. 

Oooooo...I know that sound.... that's a Bad Sound...!  Luckily that didn't happen this time around. I soaked it in WD40 and then used a razor blade, working around the rods. Got all the old gasket off and then sanded with 500 and 1000 grit; it came out fine. Took me about an hour, but I had nothing better to do. Now I just have to reassemble the top end.

I was once balls deep in a GL1000 engine, torquing the head bolts down...click-type torque wrench, never let me down before...so I'm torquing along and on one of the bolts I'm thinking that this is taking WAY too much for 37 lb torque, or whatever it is, when *SNAP*!  I broke out in a cold sweat 'cause there was No Way I was getting that bolt out if it snapped; lucky me it didn't and I was able to unscrew it, but it sure was stretched - I got very lucky!  I pillaged another bolt from another GL1000 engine I had and all went well after that...come to find out (I forgot) that my torque wrench starts at 5 ft-lbs, so I over-torqued it... but Still...yes, that is a Bad Sound. I still have PTSD from that little episode. Double-check your settings, people! 

slayer61 wrote:

FWIW I used a 36" pipe wrench to get those studs out,  but I didn't care about damaging them. "Double nutting" them wasn't budging some of them. They were replaced by APE studs

 

'83 GS1100?


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