TOPIC:

Consider the manual states pressure at 4k rpm, and investigate if considerably less. I consider considerably less to be around 1/2.
I have been riding my KZ305 as my everyday around town rider for a year and a half now. It has no oil light. Ignorance is bliss.

Why isn't anyone talking about this? 
Steve

kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/606916-cam-problem#770846

wrote:

Running a thicker oil (in order to investigate the cause of low oil pressure) is, by far, much less risky than the "open heart surgery" that is involved in removing the cylinder-head.
 Consider that, at the very least, you will need to replace the head gasket and oil-orifice o-ring.
And, while you are in there, you might as well lap the valve seats and replace the valve-stem seals, which will require re-setting valve clearances.
A couple of new, (thinner) shims will almost certainly be required after lapping the valves.
Also, while  open, you could measure the clearance of the camshaft bearing journals with "plastigauge"
plastigauge.co.uk/about/how-plastigauge-works/ 

A lot to consider....

PS
While the statement "a loss of power" using thicker oil is technically 100٪ true, I don't think your (or my) butt-dyno would be able to detect it... in my opinion.

 

Haha sounds like an easy decision then!

wrote:

Why isn't anyone talking about this? 
Steve

kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/606916-cam-problem#770846

Is the main takeaway from this video that I should sand the surface of the pump cover to smooth out the scoring?

Yes for a start and check the pressure relief valve. When cold the spring could work as intended but when hot it could be weaker.
Steve

wrote:

Yes for a start and check the pressure relief valve. When cold the spring could work as intended but when hot it could be weaker.
Steve

Hey Steve, how would I test for that? 

There should be a free length measurement but that won't tell you if it's consistent. Some shops have a spring tension tester that would tell you if it's the same up and down the range. You might be able to buy one OEM from Kawasaki or Partzilla. Springs do break down over time.
I wouldn't tear into the engine if I didn't have to.
Steve

With regard to sanding the pump cover, the video recommended 600 grit metal sandpaper. The metal sandpaper at my local hardware store doesn't have an actual grit number anywhere on it, it's just labeled "fine." And the only 600 grit I could find is for auto body, so I'm not sure if either of these would be the correct thing to use. 

USE THE 600 0N A PLATE OF GLASS

Ok, and do I just keep going until the scoring is gone? 

PIC OF HOW DEEP?