TOPIC:

Ok, fitted a new clutch cable and have it adjusted as per the manual (I have about 3mm at the lever, detent arm adjuster screw is just biting and adjusted cable free play in the middle).

Now, in neutral the rear wheel spins fine, in gear it doesnt, even when I pull in the clutch lever.

The detent arm at the end of the cable is moving about 2" (full lever travel) from what I can see (have a mirror under the bike), but its not dis-engaging the clutch. The clutch lever is also pretty heavy from what I remember it from a couple weeks back before the old cable broke.

Any suggestions ?

try playing with adjustment a little more,unless you broke something internally.

Cheers.
It seems the clutch plates are not separating - even when everything is at full adjustment. I might put a spacer on the end of the push-rod to see how much extra travel is required.

If the bike has been sitting for awhile, then sometimes the clutch plates have a tendency to stick together as there is nothing to force them apart. When you squeeze the clutch handle you are just removing the pressure, not separating the plates.
Try setting on the bike and putting it in gear, then pul in the clutch and try and bump the bike forward and bacwards to unstick the clutch.

Bike was running fine before the very old clutch cable broke. Has only been sitting for a week so shouldnt be an issue.

After trying a couple of different adjustments and re-assembling back to spec, there is a noticible clonk coming from the right side cover when the clutch lever is pulled in. Suggesting that something in there has gone ping!!!.

Was hoping to not have to remove that cover as dont have a new gasket or replacement screws (old ones are worn).

contrary to popular belief silicone will work for gasket.do not glob it on just a thin beed and let it get tacky before assembling. maybe the nut just fell off of center of drum.ok here comes the gasket police!

wireman wrote:

maybe the nut just fell off of center of drum.ok here comes the gasket police!

Nope, not the gasket police, but the nut police.

There are no nut there. The clutch is held in place on the shaft with a circlip.

If the clutch worked fine before you replaced the cable you should check the cable attachment to the release mechanism. Be shure the arm on the mechanism isn't moving the wrong way when you pull the lever. And when you adjust the freeplay in the release mechanism, be shure to have a lot of freeplay in the cable, then loosen the locknut and turn the screw in till it's loose. Then turn the screw out till you feel som resistance and then in again 1/4 turn and fasten the lock nut. Then take up the slack in the cable. This is the right way to adjust the freeplay on the KZ400B, and the KZ440 models with the release mechanism on the left hand side of the engine. And I assume the picture in your avatar is a 440 B or C model.

Post edited by: ibsen22000, at: 2006/06/18 05:00

Post edited by: ibsen22000, at: 2006/06/18 05:03

yip, the cable is adjusted properly and I checked the detent arm movement - its moving the appropriate distance.

I shall take the right cover off tomorrow and check that all is well - its probably about time that it got some attention.

ibsen22000 wrote:

wireman wrote:

maybe the nut just fell off of center of drum.ok here comes the gasket police!

Nope, not the gasket police, but the nut police.

There are no nut there. The clutch is held in place on the shaft with a circlip.

If the clutch worked fine before you replaced the cable you should check the cable attachment to the release mechanism. Be shure the arm on the mechanism isn't moving the wrong way when you pull the lever. And when you adjust the freeplay in the release mechanism, be shure to have a lot of freeplay in the cable, then loosen the locknut and turn the screw in till it's loose. Then turn the screw out till you feel som resistance and then in again 1/4 turn and fasten the lock nut. Then take up the slack in the cable. This is the right way to adjust the freeplay on the KZ400B, and the KZ440 models with the release mechanism on the left hand side of the engine. And I assume the picture in your avatar is a 440 B or C model.

Post edited by: ibsen22000, at: 2006/06/18 05:00<br><br>Post edited by: ibsen22000, at: 2006/06/18 05:03

oops,my bad im used to 900-1000 series bikes.

Pulled the clutch to bits and cleaned n measured it all. Friction plates are down to their minimum tolerence which is probably why it all stopped working - rest of the system seems fine.

Got freeplay with no oil in, but as soon as I refilled the bike, everything seized up again.

Are you saying that the clutch worked fine after you put the clutch cover back on, but before you filled oil on the engine? As far as I can tell, only three things can create this problem. Either the release mechanism in the left side cover isn't working properly, or the fricton plates have made grooves in the "fingers" on the clutch basket, preventing the plates from moving in and out smoothly. Or the friction plates and the steel plates are sticking. If the friction plates are worn down, the latter might be possible once you get oil between them. Did you notice if they were stuck to each other when you disassembled the clutch? And did you assemble the plates without soaking them in oil first?