TOPIC:

So you've removed the carbs for a proper cleaning and now you're having problems getting the boots between the carbs and the air box back on. Pod air filters seem to be a much easier option. What kind of problems must be addressed to make Pod air filters work correctly?
Bill

The stock air box serves to equalize the air flow between the individual carbs. Individual pod filters can experience different air flows caused by wetting from rain and exposure to side winds.

I have a stock air box and have used the same K&N washable air filter for about 70,000 miles, I clean it probably 3 times a season at the same time I clean and check the points, usually when I feel the bike is lagging a bit,
I will also add some Heet gas additive with a fill up just in case it's due to water in the fuel.
That usually takes care of it.
I've always thought that the stock box was very reliable and smooth in all types of weather conditions.
Plus I'm no tuning guru

The ethanol in your gas (if you fill up at a normal gas pump) may serve the same purpose as HEET.
HEET's active ingredient is methanol.

The airbox and stacks provides a stable smooth laminar flow to and through the carbs, the rubbers that go into the airbox from the carbs are part of this. CV's can be a nightmare to set up with pods, usually requiring a jet kit and a lot of screwing around to get close to right, If some sort of velocity stack is used it is easier. The VM's are a bit easier to set up but again, stacks of some sort make it much easier. If I were you I'd just buy new stacks/rubbers between the carbs and airbox, or just soak your stiff ones in wintergreen oil to soften them up, adding some acetone to the wintergreen oil helps as well, as the stacks/rubbers harden due to out gassing, the acetone restores a bit of that..

I'm thinking that this will cover the topic of "Pods and why you shouldn't"

So you've removed the carbs for a proper cleaning and now you're having problems getting the boots between the carbs and the air box back on. You’re thinking If I just get some pod filters I wouldn’t have to be messing around trying to get these rubber boots over the carbs and into the air box, and that would be correct, except that you’re now on your own as far as tuning and airflow go.
The stock box provides a reliable and smooth airflow in all types of weather conditions, not so with pod filters which can experience different air flows caused by wetting from rain and exposure to side winds.
The airbox and stacks provide a stable smooth laminar flow to and through the carbs, the rubbers (boots) that go into the airbox from the carbs are part of this. CV's can be a nightmare to set up with pods, usually requiring a jet kit and a lot of screwing around to get close to right, If some sort of velocity stack is used it is easier. The VM's are a bit easier to set up but again, stacks of some sort make it much easier.
Folks here at KZR know that it’s better to just buy new stacks (rubber boots between the carbs) and airbox, or just soak your stiff ones in wintergreen oil to soften them up, adding some acetone to the wintergreen oil helps as well, as the stacks/rubbers harden due to out gassing, the acetone restores a bit of that.

Funnily enough I am going to use A pod type set up on my 750R1 with BS34 CV's, the big difference is that the "pods I'm using have a triple velocity stack set up, most pods don't use velocity stacks. I will be using a stage 3 jet kit with these. I'm real lucky to have a friend who's extremely good at carb setups from his over 50 years of racing, in saying that, I'm still thinking about the possibility of adding side screens to stop sidewinds, If I have any trouble, By all reports I won't , just thinking ahead. Here's a look at the filters I have, If anyone is interested....

If installing pods:
1. Quality pods?
2. Install air corrected jets?