Tank hole from rust

My calwell tank sealer arrived today so hopefully this weekend we will see a large amount of progression this weekend. I bought enough to do a 10 gallon tank in gunship grey. Would I have enough to do both my 750H tank(3.5 gallon) and my 750E tank(4.5 gallon). I know preparation is everything with these so I’m doing them strictly as the instructions say. 

nessism, did you use play dough for the petcock/fuel level like the instructions recommend or what did you use? 

wrote:

My calwell tank sealer arrived today so hopefully this weekend we will see a large amount of progression this weekend. I bought enough to do a 10 gallon tank in gunship grey. Would I have enough to do both my 750H tank(3.5 gallon) and my 750E tank(4.5 gallon). I know preparation is everything with these so I’m doing them strictly as the instructions say. 

nessism, did you use play dough for the petcock/fuel level like the instructions recommend or what did you use? 

I fashioned proper plugs for all the openings.  A piece of aluminum with a rubber sheet gasket, and a rubber stopper for the main fill opening.

I’ve got the piece of aluminum cut and drilled, now does anyone know the thread pitch of the fuel level sensor? I know the petcock is
m6-1.00 however the sensor is a different pitch. 

I am currently still working with the body filler to  fill in the dents and dings to my desired level of perfection. However once that is done, does anyone know of a good rattle can primer that will serve as a base for a vinyl wrap? 

Slow progress this week as I am still doing body filler work and sanding. 
I have the block off plates made and drilled, screws ready to go, now I just need to find my paper gasket and cut some to size. I have everything to finish the tank including primer sealer, rust reformer spray paint for the underside of the tank, inside the tank coating, metal prep for the tank, all I need to get now is a reproduction tank lid and it will be ready to complete whenever I find the time. 

UPDATE: not sure if anyone else has ever used the Caswell tank sealer for their tank, but i would only recommend with the warning to anyone else that the “10 gallon” set for a motorcycle will NOT cover a 10 gallon tank. I mixed half of it up, 5 gallons worth of epoxy for a 4.5 gallon tank. Mix for 2 minutes, pour it in, cover the fill port with duct tape and get to rolling the tank to spread the epoxy. I do this for 15 minutes, I set a timer to confirm, at this point I am trying to drain any excess out of the petcock or fuel sensor port. Pull back the tape on those and they are bone dry, I use my phone and a flashlight to look in there and only half of the tank can even see any of the epoxy. So hurriedly I mixed the rest of the epoxy, another “5 gallons” worth and poured it in, this time I made sure it had good coverage and even had only a little to come out when it was time to empty the excess. Extremely messy stuff but that’s just my experience and .02
I’ll post some pictures once it has hardened and solidified more. It looks like it has good coverage and good color now.

TLDR: If you buy the 10 gallons worth, DO NOT try to split it between tanks. This will only lead a half-arsed job at sealing 2 tanks. 

Sorry, guess I should have told you to thin the sealer before application.  I think they allow 10% lacquer thinner or acetone, something like that.  Do that and the sealer flows a little better.

Yeah there is absolutely no way this stuff could do a 10 gallon tank mixed straight. However the tank did hold the metal prep solution for 24 hours without any leaking out prior to the epoxy mess I found myself in last night. Meaning the JB tank weld alone did a good job at sealing the tank. I am confident there won’t be any leaks in this one. Fingers crossed. 

After further review, the epoxy coating has only missed one small place on the top side of the tank. Since all “10 gallons” worth was put in there, I cannot blame the caswell for missing that, it was my own error. However, everywhere else seems to be coated nicely. 

For ensuring good coverage with the epoxy, raising the temperature will help, as the viscosity of the epoxy will drop significantly. If you can get a heat gun on the tank first, get it to 80 deg C or so, and also warm the epoxy. Warming it will also greatly improve bond strength and creep into small crevices.

Only word of caution with the epoxy; if you mix a large volume, it's exothermic - it will start getting hot by itself. This depends on the amount and type of epoxy. I once mixed up a bucketful, it started bubbling and fuming, had to throw it out very quickly. A warm water bath is probably the safest way to control the epoxy temperature.

Ian

Well since this thread was brought back I figured I should update it. The tank is finished and it looks okay. The only reason it is not perfect is that I chose to wrap it for the time being instead of painting it. The wrap looks alright except for around the corners where it refuses to stick into the groove. I’ll post some pictures once I get my lunch break for work. 

im going to install the new tank, side covers, and the new Delkevic exhaust at one time so it will look like a very different bike.

I went to install the new Delkevic system and it seems I have hit a snag. On the original exhaust, it had small little half moon kinda manifold collars to hold it into place. Looked like this…

Well I’m not sure if the KZowner I bought the exhaust from accidentally threw them in with the new Delkevic kit or if I am just missing something here. Everything installed well without them, I don’t even see a lip for them to catch on. The exhaust is held on well without them. Overall just confused here, can anyone with a Delkevic system tell me if I actually need these? Another thing that throws me off is that they are brand new, no rust, no use. They look like they were supposed to come with the kit.