TOPIC:

Your plan will work. Just look inside the tank to judge progress and stop when all the spots are gone. My guess on the time is a few hours.

I've done the dryer tumble on several motorcycle tanks. I found an expanding rubber plug that fits my tank openings perfectly, and make up block off plates for all of the sensors and petcock. My old Kaw had a "kreme job" when I got it, and not a nice one either, (if there is such a thing). I first tumbled it in my dryer with a gallon of MEK and 50 drywall screws in it for half an hour, then I turned it around 180* then rotated it another half an hour to hit the "other side" inside the tank to remove that nasty white crap. (aka liquid death) I wrapped it in a puffy sleeping bag, then packed pillows around it so that it could not move inside my dryer, allowing it to beat a bunch of dents in it.



Definitely remove all of the senders and petcock etc.



I then filled it with metal rescue to remove all of the rust that the kreme had sealed in. (This is a Honda VT600C tank):



Just a water rinse is all that's needed with the metal rescue. (I think you could drink the stuff lol) This stuff starts out clear. This is the iron oxide that the metal rescue removed.:

Yesterday I had a new session se to remove the corrosion completely.
1. Decreased the tank and flushed it a lot with clean water.
2. Sprayed a whole box of carb cleaner in the tank and roller the tank around for a while.
3. Flushed the tank with clean water.
4. Added 2,5l with Acid around 30%.
5. Turned the tank around time to time for approx. 1 hour, checked the tank and it was really good some left only.
6. Turned the tank around for approx. 1 hour more, an the tank was even cleaner, now it was only corrosion where the plate end, where they meet each other in the front of the tank, please see picture below..
7. I let the tank stay in acid for approx 2 hours more, but the tank was not more cleaner...
8. Flushed the tank with hot clean water and then cold clean water..
9. took out all water and added Isopropanol, and dumped it out again..
10. sprayed 2 boxes of WD-40 and turned it around.
11. dried the tank...

Here can you see the last corrosion who is left I think?


What is these?


Videos:
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Looks good. Maybe that spot is not corrosion? Chunk of varnish? Can you reach into the tank with a bent rod or something and try scraping at it?

Nessism wrote: Looks good. Maybe that spot is not corrosion? Chunk of varnish? Can you reach into the tank with a bent rod or something and try scraping at it?

Will try doing it, with the spot.

What about the corrosion left between the plate in the botton in front, mostly on one side? Just leave it?

When its come to corrision is the main problem particals in the gas and then coming into the carbs and you get problem or is it whole in the gas tank ?

Wow that looks way better............. I Bought a Golan fuel filter that goes down to 10 microns and flows like crazy ..... should stop anything that comes loose. (most of the lower cost ones go to 40 to 70 microns) Not cheap 50 bucks (but is cleanable) ....... when I drained the gas this fall it was one of the first times I saw no pieces of anything coming out of the bowls.

Yes, much better
What about corrosion and whole in the tank? Should I try to take the small piences rest of corrosion?

Maybe just take a need session in some years?

I din’t thing it will be any issue now? Have inlet filter in the tank and outside.

I want to have the tank for many years, maximize the life of the bike...

Here is a picture from the first time cleaning it with acid when I got the bike 2-3 years ago.

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KZB2 650 wrote: Wow that looks way better............. I Bought a Golan fuel filter that goes down to 10 microns and flows like crazy ..... should stop anything that comes loose. (most of the lower cost ones go to 40 to 70 microns) Not cheap 50 bucks (but is cleanable) ....... when I drained the gas this fall it was one of the first times I saw no pieces of anything coming out of the bowls.

Do you have part number or name for the filter ?
Is one if these ?


Is it possible to open up and clean also ?

Right now I use these, and has worked great:
www.biltema.no/bil---mc/mc/mc-reservedel...ter-3-stk-2000028523

I bought the mini filter, but if I could do it over, I would get the super mini.

www.golanproducts.com/filters.html

Yep Texas got the super mini w/ 5/16 barbs I think off Amazon but may have been Ebay ....... of course check around for the best price Gordone if you decide.

I've been using the Golan Super Mini Fuel Filter ( SKU 1222522 70-312G 5/16" Barbed Fittings) for 6 years and it works great. It can easily be opened to clean it if needed. I also use the Goodyear 5/16" Fuel Hose SAE 30R7 Part # 65123, and it also works great. DO NOT buy the Gates Barricade Fuel Hose - the inside of it curls up when you install it and causes a problem. I use a stainless 5/16" elbow to make things fit neatly (see below). I bought it at a place that sells beverage equipment. I also use spring clips rather than the screw type (see below) because they make life easy compared to the screw type. Ed

gordone wrote: Yes, much better
What about corrosion and whole in the tank? Should I try to take the small piences rest of corrosion?

Maybe just take a need session in some years?

I din’t thing it will be any issue now? Have inlet filter in the tank and outside.

I want to have the tank for many years, maximize the life of the bike...

Here is a picture from the first time cleaning it with acid when I got the bike 2-3 years ago.

You may want to cut down on the caustic chemicals there Gordone. There are other things out there that will remove the iron oxide without eating the metals in the process. That filler neck is so eaten up that it looks like it is two fill-ups away from crumbling into the tank.

But HEY! All I can do is suggest and tell what I have used successfully on numerous tanks.