Painting the frame

So after nearly 18 months of not touching the project (had a kid), I've started up on it again. I've now got my frame totally removed of paint, down to the bare steel. There's a fair amount of surface rust, especially at the old welds. I'll be removing as much of this rust as possible before painting, but what's the best way to treat it? Is there a rattle can designed to combat rust that you apply before the primer? Is the primer enough as a first coat?

I'm in the UK too, thought it might be relevant as I know America has different laws about certain chemicals.

Appreciate any help.

Once you have removed the rust you can use epoxy primer to prevent future rust. Epoxy primer is very tough stuff. You may then need to apply a regular primer coat over the epoxy to promote adhesion to the top coat. Take a look online at epoxy primer videos for more info. Ed

What about the rust in the little crevices of joins and welds? Best way to remove? Don't want to send it to be shot blasted

If it's not thick rust you might want to try a home-made soda blaster. Here's a link to some info. Ed

www.aircooledtech.com/tools-on-the-cheap/soda_blaster/

VHT sells a rattle can epoxy paint that is rust resistant & no primer is needed, but the prep work is critical, as with any other paint, for a good adhesion
www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&...m=bv.114733917,d.cWw
Pete

1) Paint stripper to remove paint

2) 6" wire wheel on a grinder to remove as much rust as you can reach

3) Phosphate wash to remove more rust

4) Sandblast with coal slag or similar

5) Two part epoxy primer

6) Two part urethane top coat

pete greek1 wrote: VHT sells a rattle can epoxy paint that is rust resistant & no primer is needed, but the prep work is critical, as with any other paint, for a good adhesion
www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&...m=bv.114733917,d.cWw
Pete

I went with the VHT Roll bar and chassis 4 years ago and like how it has held up.
All the welds got wire brushed and hand painted with black Rustolyum and a thick artists brush before spraying the frame with the VHT.
A paint brush forces paint into the weld were as a spray just lays on the surface.

There is a very slow cure rate on the VHT and you need to keep gas off it for at least a month, I got some on a lower part of the frame early on and it wrinkled the paint but that was a long time ago and have had no issues since.
I don't remember if I used a clear coat but if it is available it wound probably be a good idea.

JD

Using POR-15 paint is a good option for guys that want a durable paint job on top of a rusty frame. You need to follow the directions carefully, performing a phosphate etch before the paint for example, but paint of that type will help seal off the rust and give you a fighting chance for a durable paint job. NOTE: the Por-15 paint is basically just a primer and must be top coated so keep this in mind.

650ed wrote: If it's not thick rust you might want to try a home-made soda blaster. Here's a link to some info. Ed

www.aircooledtech.com/tools-on-the-cheap/soda_blaster/

This looks like it would work Ed!! Gonna try and make one myself.
Ed

Less than $20 for one of these. Fill with whatever media you want. You are going to be blasting for a LONG time if you try to remove rust with soda though.

What sort of (budget) compressor would work with that?

hightower666 wrote: What sort of (budget) compressor would work with that?

20 gallon tank and 110V 15A motor compressor would be minimum (my experience). I had a Campbell Hausfeld unit with those specs and it worked okay, but was slow going. You can blast for a min or so and then you have to pause and let it come back up to pressure.

When purchasing a compressor be very wary of units that are advertised as "oilless". These units use a "scroll compressor" which are noisy and not very durable. The old standard piston compressor wins hands down.