Best way to remove paint

I tried the brake fluid method one time on a tail section and three days later the paint was only softened. A different type of paint may be more prone to lifting though.

I cannot say I have tried anything for sure other than enamel based paint. Newer paints such as Urethanes may be more resistant. It has never harmed the plastic in my experiences.

Cory

Don't know about the paint but according to the person I bout it from. The original owner bout in 77 from the dealer and ask the dealer to install the Vetter touring package. Front windshield rest hard bags and front crash leg rest bars once all that was install he them got it painted.
So the paint is from 77.
And yes I have all the Vetter package except the two rear hard bags but do have the brackets.

Hmmm, painted in the 70's and appears to be hard would hint at possibly Laquer. Single stage and no clear....hmmm...

Cory

Correct no clear

I am by no means a paint guy, it being how hard laquer paint cures, I think you may still need to resort to sanding. You can try the chemical methods listed above or even good 'ole laquer thinner carefully. The way I remember it, is laquer thinner "cures" by simple solvent flash off depositing and bonding the pigments on the surface of the material through oxidation much like spray paint. So in theory, reintroducing the solvent should/might dissolve the pigment back into the liquid loosening and removing it from the surface. Some old time auto-body guys I have known stated they have done that, but never have done it myself or witnessed it.

FWIW

Cory

Easiest way is to find a tail and covers that were not repainted or buy new reproduction plastic. That paint looks real thick for one repaint, but it looks like it has poor adhesion. If you have the time the best way is to chip it off down to factory paint. No need to get it all the way down to bare plastic. Using a DA is dangerous on curved plastic parts with raised detail edges. Media blasting will pit up the plastic.

I still think hand sanding with a wet and dry paper using plenty of water and a dash of dish detergent is the way to cut through all that, if you start with a coarser grade and go finer towards the end you can rip through layers of paint very quickly while maintaining the control you don't have with a sander which could easily cut into the base plastic on edges and corners.

redhawk4 wrote: I still think hand sanding with a wet and dry paper using plenty of water and a dash of dish detergent is the way to cut through all that, if you start with a coarser grade and go finer towards the end you can rip through layers of paint very quickly while maintaining the control you don't have with a sander which could easily cut into the base plastic on edges and corners.

You are going to be there for a week sanding that by hand with wet paper.

I'd use a DA with 100 grit, just watch the corners. I did just that on my 750 restore.

As a side note, one of my side covers had a sink mark in the middle which I had to fill with body filler. These old Kawasaki's weren't built to be show pieces. :laugh:

If it is rattle can plain gasoline works wonders. I got a gpz750R and last owner matt blacked it-result! Paint is mint underneath!!

Worth a try? I never thought it would work-sure does though!

Hope it was a cheap rattle job!

drew

Nessism wrote:

redhawk4 wrote: I still think hand sanding with a wet and dry paper using plenty of water and a dash of dish detergent is the way to cut through all that, if you start with a coarser grade and go finer towards the end you can rip through layers of paint very quickly while maintaining the control you don't have with a sander which could easily cut into the base plastic on edges and corners.

You are going to be there for a week sanding that by hand with wet paper.

I'd use a DA with 100 grit, just watch the corners. I did just that on my 750 restore.

As a side note, one of my side covers had a sink mark in the middle which I had to fill with body filler. These old Kawasaki's weren't built to be show pieces. :laugh:

You just need some "elbow grease" or to be 15, well lubed wet and dry cuts through paint like no other, I usually have the problem of removing too much paint - but we Europeans are used to doing things the hard way

If the paint is from the 70's you will want to strip it back to the bare material by whatever means you choose.

Don't know about elbow greasing it...my joints are not 20years old....lol
Will see thx all for the replies.
Soon I get one piece done I'll post about the way I went.