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kz400 fuel tank cap spring
- padgett
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so this guy,
how do i do it?
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- diggerdanh
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That spring is for the caps used on the 74-75 tanks that were also used on some of the H1, H2, S3, Z1 and others which looks like this:
The 76-78 used a different style of cap that mounted differently to the tank and looks like this:
I ran into this a few weeks ago when I put a 75 tank on my 76 and thought I was going to just simply swap over the fuel caps. That's when I realized they were different and had to order a new one.
If it is the older style cap then it is a bit of a pain in the butt to hold that spring in place with tension with the cap and tap the pin that holds it all together at the same time. Once you figure out how the spring needs to be oriented to apply the proper tension you're well on your way. I used a small screwdriver to hold it roughly in place along while using a punch of a smaller diameter in place of the capture pin. Then I tapped the pin in from the other side replacing the punch as it was tapped through. I know that may be difficult to visualize without seeing it. Hopefully I explained it well enough. If not let me know and I'll try again.
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- PaintWorkz
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diggerdanh wrote: What year?
That spring is for the caps used on the 74-75 tanks that were also used on some of the H1, H2, S3, Z1 and others which looks like this:
The 76-78 used a different style of cap that mounted differently to the tank and looks like this:
I ran into this a few weeks ago when I put a 75 tank on my 76 and thought I was going to just simply swap over the fuel caps. That's when I realized they were different and had to order a new one.
If it is the older style cap then it is a bit of a pain in the butt to hold that spring in place with tension with the cap and tap the pin that holds it all together at the same time. Once you figure out how the spring needs to be oriented to apply the proper tension you're well on your way. I used a small screwdriver to hold it roughly in place along while using a punch of a smaller diameter in place of the capture pin. Then I tapped the pin in from the other side replacing the punch as it was tapped through. I know that may be difficult to visualize without seeing it. Hopefully I explained it well enough. If not let me know and I'll try again.
www.paintworkz.com
84 Gpz900 street
77 KZ 1325 Turbo Dragbike project
79 CBX Pro Stock projects (2)
78 Z1R-TC AMA & ECTA LSR record holder
68 750 Enfield Brat project
82 750 Nourish Triumph LSR
Lake Havasu City, AZ
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- padgett
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So the 'feet' for the spring. are they pointing down right?
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- padgett
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- floivanus
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But I will say a tank swap is your second best bet, your best is making your cap setup work because you probably can't just swap caps out. And the locking caps on KZs are actually quite annoying as well
my bikes; 80kz1000(project), 77 gl1000, 74 h2 (project)
Past; 78 kz1000, 83 kz550
Andrew
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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Steve
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- PaintWorkz
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padgett wrote: this is all very helpful thank you.
So the 'feet' for the spring. are they pointing down right?
The feet, or the 2 straight arms off of the loop....one arm lays down flat on the tank, and the other arm will locate up into the notch in the latch.
www.paintworkz.com
84 Gpz900 street
77 KZ 1325 Turbo Dragbike project
79 CBX Pro Stock projects (2)
78 Z1R-TC AMA & ECTA LSR record holder
68 750 Enfield Brat project
82 750 Nourish Triumph LSR
Lake Havasu City, AZ
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- floivanus
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swest wrote: How are they annoying? :huh:
Steve
More moving parts, not keyed, can get to be sticky.
Z1 style is just simpler
my bikes; 80kz1000(project), 77 gl1000, 74 h2 (project)
Past; 78 kz1000, 83 kz550
Andrew
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