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'78 Z1-R Engine Repaint
- DoctoRot
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23 Jul 2013 19:43 - 23 Jul 2013 19:45 #597957
by DoctoRot
Replied by DoctoRot on topic '78 Z1-R Engine Repaint
what CFM is your compressor? I have to use my big compressor to run the soda blaster. Its 13 CFM at 90 PSI.
If the paint has really good adhesion already, maybe just make sure its really clean and degreased , and paint over it to touch up.
If your dead set on removing the paint you might want to go with a different media. Soda doesn't really provide much of a tooth on aluminum for the paint to stick to. I had my engine cases blasted with a 50/50 mix of glass beads and granite. It gave it a pretty nice tooth that is perfect for paint adhesion, and it also increased surface area slightly so it will cool better, like wrinkle paint, kinda. If you go this route make sure the cases are WELL MASKED, and only areas to be painted are blasted. pay specific attention to area where oil seals and stuff fit. Also you will have to worry less about media getting into the oil channels and stuff.
If the paint has really good adhesion already, maybe just make sure its really clean and degreased , and paint over it to touch up.
If your dead set on removing the paint you might want to go with a different media. Soda doesn't really provide much of a tooth on aluminum for the paint to stick to. I had my engine cases blasted with a 50/50 mix of glass beads and granite. It gave it a pretty nice tooth that is perfect for paint adhesion, and it also increased surface area slightly so it will cool better, like wrinkle paint, kinda. If you go this route make sure the cases are WELL MASKED, and only areas to be painted are blasted. pay specific attention to area where oil seals and stuff fit. Also you will have to worry less about media getting into the oil channels and stuff.
Last edit: 23 Jul 2013 19:45 by DoctoRot.
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- weales
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24 Jul 2013 21:06 #598125
by weales
Current Project
1968 Norton P11A Desert Sled
Other bike (and daily ride)
2004 Yamaha FZR 600
Previous Bikes
78 Z1-R (resto)
91 Zephyr 750
73 Mach IV (Resto)
78 Z1-R
78 Z1-R (stolen)
76 Z900
76 Z650
73 Mach IV
72 Mach III
Replied by weales on topic '78 Z1-R Engine Repaint
Not sure of CFM but suspect it's most of the problem as it's only a little compressor. Thanks for your advice - I'll be giving it a good clean and degrease before I make a final "D" on whether to remove all paint or touchup.
Current Project
1968 Norton P11A Desert Sled
Other bike (and daily ride)
2004 Yamaha FZR 600
Previous Bikes
78 Z1-R (resto)
91 Zephyr 750
73 Mach IV (Resto)
78 Z1-R
78 Z1-R (stolen)
76 Z900
76 Z650
73 Mach IV
72 Mach III
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- weales
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30 Sep 2013 22:31 #608413
by weales
Current Project
1968 Norton P11A Desert Sled
Other bike (and daily ride)
2004 Yamaha FZR 600
Previous Bikes
78 Z1-R (resto)
91 Zephyr 750
73 Mach IV (Resto)
78 Z1-R
78 Z1-R (stolen)
76 Z900
76 Z650
73 Mach IV
72 Mach III
Replied by weales on topic '78 Z1-R Engine Repaint
Have degreased and washed the engine - paint is pretty flaky/bubbled and generally pretty rough. I've wire brushed/sanded where I can but looks like the "masterblaster" will be getting some work to remove all the remaining paint before repaint. I intend to use VHT Engine Enamel(Satin Black)- this will be going on blasted surfaces. Do I need to prepare/prime before the enamel and is the clear finish coat required/recommended? (Not trying to be a cheapass but just want to get best value for my dollars and get a good durable finish)
Current Project
1968 Norton P11A Desert Sled
Other bike (and daily ride)
2004 Yamaha FZR 600
Previous Bikes
78 Z1-R (resto)
91 Zephyr 750
73 Mach IV (Resto)
78 Z1-R
78 Z1-R (stolen)
76 Z900
76 Z650
73 Mach IV
72 Mach III
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- 0Z.Z1R Mk2
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01 Oct 2013 06:09 #608443
by 0Z.Z1R Mk2
Replied by 0Z.Z1R Mk2 on topic '78 Z1-R Engine Repaint
No need to prime or clear engine enamel.
While "VHT is ok" if you want a durable paint.....I prefer to use PJ1 satin black.
While "VHT is ok" if you want a durable paint.....I prefer to use PJ1 satin black.
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- turboking
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01 Oct 2013 10:03 #608450
by turboking
2005 Kawasaki mean streak
2000 325 H.P. mcXpress turbo Hayabusa
1979 kz 1000 mk II ATP turbo
1975 Z1 960 cc Mr. Turbo
1975 Z1 1428 big block ATP turbo
1976 Kz900 1103 cc ATP turbo
1985 GS 1150E
1983 GS 1100E
1997 Suzuki Bandit 1200S
2001 Kawasaki EX 500 Ninja
1972 Honda cb750 (836cc turbo)
Replied by turboking on topic '78 Z1-R Engine Repaint
+ 1 on the PJ1 satin black :blink: way better than VHT :pinch:
2005 Kawasaki mean streak
2000 325 H.P. mcXpress turbo Hayabusa
1979 kz 1000 mk II ATP turbo
1975 Z1 960 cc Mr. Turbo
1975 Z1 1428 big block ATP turbo
1976 Kz900 1103 cc ATP turbo
1985 GS 1150E
1983 GS 1100E
1997 Suzuki Bandit 1200S
2001 Kawasaki EX 500 Ninja
1972 Honda cb750 (836cc turbo)
The following user(s) said Thank You: BlackZ1R
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- weales
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01 Oct 2013 20:01 #608491
by weales
Current Project
1968 Norton P11A Desert Sled
Other bike (and daily ride)
2004 Yamaha FZR 600
Previous Bikes
78 Z1-R (resto)
91 Zephyr 750
73 Mach IV (Resto)
78 Z1-R
78 Z1-R (stolen)
76 Z900
76 Z650
73 Mach IV
72 Mach III
Replied by weales on topic '78 Z1-R Engine Repaint
G'day fellow (K)Zedders - thanks for the advice on engine enamel - 2 votes for PJ1, nil for VHT so far. I understand that there's no need to prime the blasted surfaces or clear coat over the top. Anyone have advice otherwise?
Current Project
1968 Norton P11A Desert Sled
Other bike (and daily ride)
2004 Yamaha FZR 600
Previous Bikes
78 Z1-R (resto)
91 Zephyr 750
73 Mach IV (Resto)
78 Z1-R
78 Z1-R (stolen)
76 Z900
76 Z650
73 Mach IV
72 Mach III
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- z1kzonly
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01 Oct 2013 20:30 #608494
by z1kzonly
Livin in "CheektaVegas, NY
Went thru 25 of these in 40 yrs.
I SOLD OUT! THE KAW BARN IS EMPTY.
More room for The Old Girl, Harley 75 FLH Electra Glide,
Old faithful! Points ign. Bendix Orig. carb.
Starts everytime!
Replied by z1kzonly on topic '78 Z1-R Engine Repaint
Been awhile since I chimed in. I love the PJ1. VHT works on headers!
If you have air (compressor) and a spray gun. I always would put laquer thinner in the gun and spray it all over everything being painted. Let it all evaporate. Then paint! Heat would be great at the end. Know any one with a powdercoat oven? Spray engine parts and bake the paint to cure it for about 4 hours. Then it is done. I have a can of gloss black PJ1 sitting to do a KZ engine, 1 of these days.
I have a complete set of covers powdercoated black waiting to go together with stainless bolts for the covers. Looks good in my brain!
Make sure you clean the outer cyl fins and head fins off like a 73 Z1 engine! The only way to do a black Z engine!!
Good luck and show pics when done!
If you have air (compressor) and a spray gun. I always would put laquer thinner in the gun and spray it all over everything being painted. Let it all evaporate. Then paint! Heat would be great at the end. Know any one with a powdercoat oven? Spray engine parts and bake the paint to cure it for about 4 hours. Then it is done. I have a can of gloss black PJ1 sitting to do a KZ engine, 1 of these days.
I have a complete set of covers powdercoated black waiting to go together with stainless bolts for the covers. Looks good in my brain!
Make sure you clean the outer cyl fins and head fins off like a 73 Z1 engine! The only way to do a black Z engine!!
Good luck and show pics when done!
Livin in "CheektaVegas, NY
Went thru 25 of these in 40 yrs.
I SOLD OUT! THE KAW BARN IS EMPTY.
More room for The Old Girl, Harley 75 FLH Electra Glide,
Old faithful! Points ign. Bendix Orig. carb.
Starts everytime!
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- DoctoRot
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02 Oct 2013 05:37 - 02 Oct 2013 06:03 #608533
by DoctoRot
Replied by DoctoRot on topic '78 Z1-R Engine Repaint
It is inadvisable to spray lacquer thinner before painting even if it has fully evaporated. it is not a cleaning agent, and paint adhesion will be compromised. Lacquer thinner is formulated be slower drying to match lacquer application requirements, there are oils and other additives to make it compatible. it is possible to use it as a cleaning agent if you properly wipe it off after, however it will only clean what it can dissolve which is.... paint and oil. other contaminates will not be removed by it. Use a purpose created degreaser/prep cleaner, preferably one that takes a while to dry allowing you to completely wipe off any contaminates and the cleaner itself. don't use regular paper towels.
Since you are getting it blasted I wouldn't even worry about degreasing. Once it is blasted never handle it with your bare hands, glove up, and as long as you paint it right away all you may want to do it spray it with air to remove any left over media or dust. Plus if you masked your cases for media blasting, you don't have to worry about a cleaner dissolving the mask before paint.
also heat at the end definitely helps, but getting your pieces hot (100-150F) and having the environment be warm during the painting goes a long way too. its 45-50f where i live now if i wanted to paint i would put a space heater and some heat lamps in my garage to get the temp about to about 75f.
good luck!
Since you are getting it blasted I wouldn't even worry about degreasing. Once it is blasted never handle it with your bare hands, glove up, and as long as you paint it right away all you may want to do it spray it with air to remove any left over media or dust. Plus if you masked your cases for media blasting, you don't have to worry about a cleaner dissolving the mask before paint.
also heat at the end definitely helps, but getting your pieces hot (100-150F) and having the environment be warm during the painting goes a long way too. its 45-50f where i live now if i wanted to paint i would put a space heater and some heat lamps in my garage to get the temp about to about 75f.
good luck!
Last edit: 02 Oct 2013 06:03 by DoctoRot.
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