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Need some sanding help
- pollocksn
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- JMKZHI
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- KZErider
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Good luck on your paint job!
81 KZ750E2(project), 81 KZ750E2(parts donor), 87 BMW K 75C - got it runnin, didn't care for it, holding for family member, 79 CB650(project) Nomad 1700, VStar 950
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- Pterosaur
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Sanding to achieve what would otherwise be known as *quality* results - especially over previous paint is literally an art form in itself. The reason is that breaking through a paint edge automatically forms a low spot that requires a technique known as "feathering" to prevent low spots, ripples and washboarding from appearing in any primer/paint layers that are applied over it.
Without some previous experience, it's doubtful that short of sanding a tank to bare metal will produce satisfactory results. And trying to sand original paint to bare metal is gonna take awhile, regardless.
A much quicker solution is to hunt down an amiable radiator shop - one that boils truck cores - and pay them $5 or $10 to have them put it in their lye tank for awhile. Comes out bare metal and clean as a whistle. Scuff with #400 paper an prime away.
Sidecovers and 'tails are more problematic - same paint, more fragile substrate. Taking them down to raw plastic can be done with chemical strippers and a great deal of care, but I don't think that's an option here. Likewise - for the above-mentioned problems associated with arriving at an even surface, it's pretty easy to wind up with a wavy-gravy set of plastic.
The quickest and probably cleanest solution in your case would be to remove all badges/emblems and sand the covers/tail *carefully* with #400 wet until you achieve a uniform, totally sanded appearance. Apply a couple of *DRY* shot coats of primer, re-sand with #400 wet, then re-prime and let your brother take it from there.
JMK has a point, however - if your brother's experienced, it might save headaches and heartaches to have him handle the job from the get-go.
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- pollocksn
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Well I really wanted to do it myself so I could learn something.
A noble enough goal, however...
I have a feeling this going to take me a lot longer than I thought and give me some headaches along the way...
To be sure.
The purpose here is not not be outright discouraging, but rather realistic; there's a reason why it often takes years to become a decent - and skilled - paint/body combo guy - there's a *LOT* to know and it's the type of knowledge that isn't easily discernable by text alone - as regards paint and bodywork, there's no substitute for experience - and gaining experience dictates learning from mistakes.
Oh well this is why I bought the bike, to play around and try to learn stuff. Thanks for the tips
Stick around - there *might* ve a series in the works on the topic.
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- pollocksn
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Well I had been waiting on the tank to get here and it got here today. I was really surprised with how it looks. It is almost flawless just one tiny nick on it....
Some pics of the tank would definitely help.
Not sure exactly what color(s) are needed - some are less difficult to *wing it* on than others. Older Kaw paint codes are problematic, because they're not readily available in either pre-mixed or as mixing formulas. Some specialty shops - such as Paintworkz - a member here have gone to some trouble to match older Kaw colors as closely as possible - but I'm not sure about availability.
Definitely, if the original paint is in even *good* condition, it's worth saving...
Wait a minute! Wait! Do I hear the patter of RonKZ dancing a jig somewhere?
Also any paint choice tips? I know that black will show every little imperfection in the paint. Is there any colors that tend to not highlight little blemishes?
For hiding multitudes of sins, lighter, non-metallic shades are best - white, yellow, arrest-me-reds, some lighter blues. As you go darker, contrast becomes an issue.
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- pollocksn
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- RetroRiceRocketRider
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- ...bring in the machine that goes PING!
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And there isn't any pin stripping on it, which IIRC all the 650's came with.
Still, it's not a bad looking paint job or color.
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- pollocksn
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