Semi gloss engine paint

Is there a decent paint that i can get locally (ie: koi, auto zone, pep boys that will hold up well on my head and jugs or do i absolutly have to order it online? Thanks

I painted my engine - head, barrels, cases - with Duplicolor semi gloss black engine enamel with ceramics. Goes on smooth, only needs a couple of light coats, dries fast and has stood up very well to heat and oil, but gas will stain it.

I may try that. I am not set on semigloss either. If there is a wrinkle black or a gloss black that will work i will use it too. Or if not where can i order a gas resistant paint that will hold up

I don't know if they have a wrinkle black, but they have gloss black and I've used it to paint wheels.

Just make sure it is "hi temp" paint. Spent hours removing parts and masking my engine for paint. Came out perfect, after riding a few days I noticed that paint was looking funny. Touched it and it was gooey, heat had made it soft again. Had to redo with "hi temp engine paint" Dumbass me!! :huh:

I know some poeple are not to crazy about flat black,but flat black will disapate heat more quickly(racers know this very well)than any other color know to man.This really helps when slipping through town on hot days.Is`nt as much of a thermal barrier.More of a thin skin than a thick skin.

I agree about the flat black being best. All the factories can't be wrong! Try to find some high-temp paint and if you can, try to see what it looks like after it dries...they dry different shades. Some have a grayish tint while some have a darker tint after they dry. There are flat black engine paint, Bar-B-Q paint, header paint, radiator paint, etc. Look around at some auto-parts stores and places like Menards, Lowes, Farm & Fleet...hardware stores also. Some bike shops sell PJ-1 brand. It's expensive compared to other brands but it's excellent paint made for this application.

Do you have to cure the pj1 in an oven or anything? I have had bad luck with the autozone 1500 degree paint boiling off when i use it on exaust manifolds and such. Although i do not suppose the head and jugs get nearly as hot

Been awhile since I have done it, but when I painted any engine parts, I'd start up one of those torpedo room heaters (although any kind might work) and turn the heat directly onto the parts to get them as warm as possible. Seemed to work for me. Oven would work though, but I have never personally done it. Any way you can get heat to the paint is better then none.

i used pj1 engine black on my engine it looks great. you don't have to bake it, it is epoxy based paint. it comes in wrinkle black and semi gloss black i think. it is really solid and easy to touch up if you get a chip(very uncommon). i got mine through a local motorcycle dealers part shop. you can order it online though, i think Z1 has it.

How many cans should i get to do my engine cases, head and jugs?

PJ1 is best for do it yourself job. It is designed just for this. Clean the parts to be painted really well with water and simple green, a great pre painting cleaner (bio friendly, too) and dry with fan or blow dryer. Heat the room up to 75 degrees, you may need two cans, but one will probably be enough. rest the cans in hot tap water for 15 minutes before shaking and applying. Use a respirator and ventilate the room briefly when all the paint is airborn. Make sure temperature in the room does not drop for long. Keep the temp up till dry.