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Always found it useful to do two things:

Work in a "staggered bolt" pattern - 1/10 - 2/8 - 3/7 - etc., around the tabs.

*GENTLY* apply heat with a decent quality heat gun to the cover area around the next "pull" to be made. Gives you that extra 1/8" of stretch right when you need it. Contracts as it cools and the cover goes drum tight.

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JMKZHI wrote:

Thanks.

Pterosaur wrote:...
*GENTLY* apply heat with a decent quality heat gun to the cover area around the next "pull" to be made. Gives you that extra 1/8" of stretch right when you need it. Contracts as it cools and the cover goes drum tight.

And isn't that just great - I'm prolly gonna haveta buy another specialty tool that'll get used once - assuming a hair dryer doesn't work. hee.

JMK.

Don't tell Underwriter's Labs I told you this...

Pretty much every hairdryer made in the last decade or so uses a bimetallic switch as a temperature sensor/power cutoff. Prevents a lot of people from spontaneous bathroom incineration. :woohoo:

Anyways, if you take a dry terrycloth wash rag and loosely hold it over the air inlet the coils don't see as much air and get superheated until the cutoff kicks in. Not an elegant solution, but it _is_ a way to get heat gun temps out of a hairdryer.

Might be a good idea to get the better half a new dryer for Christmas and swipe her old one for the garage - kill two birds with one stone... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

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