standard chain with master link versus \"o ring\" chain

hey folks
replacing the chain on my 78 kz200a project bike as it is really old (original) and close to the end of the tensioner gauge limit.

in doing research, I see there are some choices, standard chain with master link, and an "o ring" version , which looks like a faster easier way to remove the chain.

Advice: I am trying to save money where I can on this rebuild, in spending 15 bucks versus 40 for a chain, I wanted to see if it was "really worth it" to go for the more expensive chain type or not.
ebay

Advice 2: are there any other parts that 'have' to be replaced when the chain is replaced? I know that with my bicycles, the chain wears into the sprockets, so they need to be replaced in proper intervals to keep the bike running smooth. anything to look for here?

Thanks a lot!
bk

You should replace the spockets too. Do you plan on keeping the bike? If so spend the extra.

OKC_Kent wrote:

You should replace the spockets too. Do you plan on keeping the bike? If so spend the extra.

Agreed.

The quickest way to turn a new chain into loose-linked junk is to wrap it around a junk set of sprockets. Any "cupping" or other evident wear on the sprocket teeth will immediately go to work on your new chain - they are *designed* to MESH smoothly with a minumum of frictional sources.

A chain isn't high on my personal items to penny-pinch on - and I've had two busted chains over the years to solidify that view - one of them validated a friendship by having a guy trailer me back from 50 miles out. And a busted chain at 60 mph can eat a lot of expensive parts in a real hurry - if not ruin your whole day.

After a fashion, you can look at like buying a cheap chain is like buying a garage sale parachute - it'll work - PROBABLY.

thanks for the update. it wasnt so much the penny pinching, it was more, should I get a chain that requires a chain tool, or one that snaps on and off with an o ring. I want to spend the money in the proper areas on this project. Many things need replacing.

i was kinda figuring on the cupping of the sprockets, thanks for that tidbit!

Not sure how long I will keep this one for. it is a first project bike, so I will likely do as much as I feel comfortable doing, bring it to someone for the other stuff and make it safe to use. it's a small bike that I see my wife using for a learner, or selling it to a commuter in a year or so.

So: recommendation is buy good chain, don't cheap out, regardless of the clasp mechanism. replace sprockets when replacing old chain as cupping will surely chew the new chain up and it will not run as smoothly.

Thanks again guys

bk

Precisely.

For an added bit of supportive detail, one of the busted chains I *survived* was an el-cheapo back in the days when I figured an extra 40 bucks for a chain was a poor trade for X lost cases of beer.

The chain parted due to a manufacturing defect that left it with a crack in one of the side plates that was invisible until it failed.

And when it died, it decided to take as much as possible with it, including me - doing about 60 down an interstate - the raw end shattered the tail light fixture before the other end wound around the sprocket and spokes, beating the swingarm, shock, sidecover and the back of my leg senseless in the process. Benny and the Jets never had anything on the chain-whuppin' I got that day.

Good thing there was no traffic around me - wound up in the median doing a helmet divot that would'a made Tiger Woods blush...

Hey KZ wizards and gurus- go back and read beekay's posts- I may be way off (as usual) but I think he's a bit confused about the term "O-ring"? Like in being a different type of removeable master link?
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or I'm just talking out my ass, again....

Nevco48 wrote:

Hey KZ wizards and gurus- go back and read beekay's posts - I may be way off (as usual) but I think he's a bit or I'm just talking out my ass, again....

Details, details....

I'd spotted that - but figured he'd find out by osmosis when he bellys up to the parts counter and sez, "Yo! Gimme the best chain y'got!

Can't steal *all* of the parts-dOOd's fun...

Pterosaur wrote:
Can't steal *all* of the parts-dOOd's fun... [/quote]

Oh oh, are you guys gonna start with the "you can't use a metric crescent wrench on SAE bolts" jokes? :lol:

There are two types of chains. Master link and endless. The master link requires a special link with a sideplate and clip to retain it. The endless chain requires a bit more work to install. Get a master link type chain.

I suspect that if the bike is new to you, you should replace both the countershaft and final sprocket. There SHOULD be a picture of a worn sprocket in your service manual... essentially, the rear sprocket (final) will be shown with sharp teeth and they will also be wavy looking... Replace the sprockets.

Last, there are many types of chain. A standard chain wears quickly. An O-ring chain has O-rings between link parts and wears far better (longer life). There are other types of chain that wear even better.

To fit a chain, just find out what the size and number of links required for your application. For a KZ900, this would be a 630 chain with 92 links (memory?). Your chain will not be as heavy nor require as many links. Once you find this info, shop for a new chain with denniskirk.com or z1enterprises.com, etc. They MAY not have anything listed for your bike because the bike isn't that common but WILL have the chain you need.

riverroad wrote:

Pterosaur wrote:
Can't steal *all* of the parts-dOOd's fun...

Oh oh, are you guys gonna start with the "you can't use a metric crescent wrench on SAE bolts" jokes? :lol:[/quote]

My favorite was to hand some poor kid a brown paper bag and tell him to go to parts and get me a *pound of compression*...

Utterly amazing how many enjenues' fell for that - but always, always, always had good times - and good friends develop out of it - once they got over the red-face blues. :blush:

My Daddy pulled that one on me when I was about 5 or so, and I figured it was my right-of-passage duty to carry on the tradition...

I always loved them kinda jokes. When I was in the Air Force, it was, "Hey kid, go get me ten yards of flightline", or a gallon of prop wash, or a can of dehydrated water.
A long time ago I was working in a garage, and I was training this kid on oil changes and lube jobs. I pointed to one of the zerks and told the kid that they were metric grease fittings. Then I told him to go tell the boss to order some metric grease. And he did it.
Good times.
:lol:

Wiredgeorge, thats the kind of useful advice that a new guy would need; thanks.

For clarity I would add one word to your post, I know what you meant, but it could be misunderstood to mean the countershaft should be replaced?


wiredgeorge wrote:

I suspect that if the bike is new to you, you should replace both the countershaft sproket and final sprocket.