TOPIC:

I don't use them. 

I have found its a false economy to buy cheap chains and sprockets as they typically wear much faster than higher quality items.  Unless you are drag racing there is really no need for a roller chain. Look at the chains top tier racers are using - all x-ring or some variant.

One guy being vocal on the internet does not mean much, if it were many people than it would be worth considering. Even cheap chains are incredibly strong and for it to fail catastrophically in that amount of time points to something else going on. Particularly since the guy claims he has been hot-rodding the bike and more explicitly the chain heating up is a clear sign of over stress.

If you have longer than stock shocks you need more chain slack. if he set the stock chain slack, or too little chain slack for that matter, and had overlength shocks (fairly common when hotrodding) that would put an incredible amount of force on the chain as the suspension compressed as it has nowhere to go. This will break chains or destroy transmission/wheel bearings in a very short amount of time, no problem. I have 2" over shocks on my KZs and the only way to properly set chain slack is to remove the shocks and tighten the chain until you feel pressure when moving the swingarm through the tightest point of its travel. then back it off a little. the overlength shocks make the chain appear to be loose by normal standards when the bike is sitting, however this is correct slack for swingarm angle. I then document the slack measurement and use that as the min slack amount in the future.

Other variables could have caused/contributed to chain failure:
Was the master installed properly? so many people F this up and over rivet the master or install the master clip the wrong direction.
are the sprockets aligned? did he buy the right sprockets?

Point is  - spend an extra $40 and get a good x ring chain. it will probably last another 20 years.
 

I've never used one.

 

 

There isn't one chain on the market that will break as you've stated here, if fitted correctly, UNLESS he's done something wrong, or used the wrong chain. There's no way to verify some internet bloke who's screwed up a chain without seeing exactly what he's done, and how he's ridden the bike.  I always look at tensile strength of the chains before buying and , due to the safety nature of the chain, don't give a damn if I pay more for a superior chain..   The chain your internet guy used has a 9,900 tensile strength rating But is only recommended for bikes up to 750cc...

Product Information DID 630 K Standard Series Chain* Low-cost, high-quality solid roller chain.
* Quad-staked pin riveting.
* Special alloy steel construction.
* Extended riveted bushing anti-kink design.
* Pre-stretched at factory.
* For motorcycles originally equipped with non-O-ring chain.

Avg. Tensile Strength
6930 lbs

Maximum Engine CC  750

After doing a bit more digging, these chains are only 6930 LBS tensile strength and are recommended for older 750cc bikes like the CB750 Honda. So it seems Suzuki guy bought the wrong chain and that was why he broke it. He also must have been giving the bike some berries to break it that soon as they are still a very strong chain.

I'm not sure why you'd delete what you wrote, this would have been useful to someone,  I don't understand why you even bothered posting it in the first place if you didn't want to know the answer...

Seems we missed the OP & a little drama.  Didn't see the video.

We run non O-ring chains on our '72 ('73) and '74 Z1's that came from Mama Kaw with them and we run the stock chain oilers.
Maintains originality.
The motors are bone stock & we don't wail on them.  All miles are touring miles.
Don't care about chain oiler mess.  It's honest, period patina & does clean up.  Helps increase the admittedly-shorter, non-O-ring chain life.  Tiny black dots on the back of a white T-shirt increases street cred  .
We've never broken any chain, O-ring or not, Z1 or otherwise. 
We only run trusted brands, including D.I.D.  We never run chains sourced from Communist China,

To run O-ring chains on early Z1's and Z1-A's, a countershaft sprocket shim that mama Kaw installed on '75 Z1's that came OEM with O-ring chains should be installed to increase  clearance between the wider O-ring chain and the trans. cover.  That shim then requires a matching shim to be installed on the rear sprocket carrier to maintain chain alignment.  Mama Kaw also widened the chain guard on the Z1-B to keep the wider chain from rubbing the inner chain guard.  If an O-ring chain is run on an early Z1 with sprocket shims and the correct, early, narrow chain guard, it's more likely than not to rub a hole in the plastic chain guard.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

This thread was moved back from problem threads. The OP asked for it to be deleted but I asked why, I didn't see anything wrong with it so he deleted his posts anyway. It was determined once replies were posted it belongs to the site. In the past I would screen shot or quote the OP in case the OP deleted his comments. Next time I will. 
Steve

I have never broken one, but I have had extremely rapid wear problems with the DID non o-ring chains.  I wouldn't buy one again unless it was all thats available.  I am talking extremely rapid wear...like chain is stretched beyond adjuster limits and side play totally wopped out in less than 1200 miles.  I routinely get 12-20,000 miles out of Parts Unlimited o-ring chain.

I have found that when it is time to replace a chain it is best to bite the bullet and install new sprockets at the same time and oil or lubricate and tension them as needed and they will last longer than you think.

 

I bought a DID chain to get me by until I could get a full setup. Wasn't happy with it. 
Steve
kzrider.com/forum/5-chassis/596545-chine...g-chain?limitstart=0