1976 KZ900 fork disassembly

I need to pull my forks apart. I want to polish the lowers and they need seals replaced. When I pulled the caps and dumped out the oil I only recovered about a shot glass amount of oil from both forks combined. What are my options as it seams the Kawasaki 57001-176 tool isn't available. I've searched the forum and the only option is an air impact used while the cap and spring is still assembled.. That didn't work for my...

What type of impact gun you using? In 40 years working on these I've only had two forks that I couldn't get the bottom bolt out. All the others zipped right off with a 1/2" air impact gun.

I believe I have that tool. I'll check when I return home tonight.
You should read this: www.kzrider.com/forum/5-chassis/223938-forks-76-a4
Bill

its an older Ingersoll Rand 231. Using 150 PSI... Might need a rebuild on the gun, last time I used it had trouble getting lug nuts off... Ill take them to my kid tomorrow, he's a Ford mechanic with all the good tools...

If I can get them apart, how would I hold the cylinder to get the allen bolt to the correct torque

When I rebuilt the forks on my "78 the allen bolt was tightened to a torque. I don't see any torque spec in my KZ900 FSM

I have this tool but not correct for the 900’s

So that also rules out the broom handle trick...

I tired the 1/4” -3/4” gator grip socket but it doesn’t fit inside the upper stanchion. About 2” deep into the upper it reduces diameter. That concerns my that I might have trouble getting the cylinder back into the upper. FSM calls out another tool for assembly 57001-161... I don’t have that either.

Loosen them with the springs installed. I did mine this time last year.
Steve

Is it at all possible to collapse the fork and peer into the tube to see what type of coupling you are dealing with? I thought I read where the Gator Grip socket was supposed to work on some of the models. I have made up special holders once I had a fork leg apart in order to get it back together, but the hard part is getting it disassembled first to fabricate something up for reassembly.

Rick H.

A good air or electric impact will normally take them right off. These tools have come a long way the last 40yrs. You might try getting a new impact tool. If all else fails, the allen bolts are rediculously easy to drill the head off with no damage at all and just remove the remainder of the bolt with your fingers and get a new bolt at any hardware store. For torquing, over the years I just ran the bolt back in with the impact and left it at that. Never had any trouble.

The damper heads are round. I install them the way I take them off. two more clips.
Steve

Ronkz650 got me thinking, electric impact...!!! Well S**t I have one of those. And it worked... They are apart... Now the hard part of getting the old seals out...

Here’s what came out. Doesn’t look like enough stuff compared with the FSM...

Broken roll pin that holds the top on the damper...

Sometimes the seals can be really tight. I've found a little heat from a propane torch will loosen them up. Be sure to use a proper seal puller. Z1E sells them.