Very stubborn swingarm spindle - KZ550 LTD

I've just got hold of a KZ550 LTD frame, with the swingarm still attached. I noticed that there is a swingarm shim missing (going between the swingarm and the frame) on one side, and as a result when you grab the swingarm, it can be rocked a bit. So the swingarm has to come off, to put a new shim in there, and (now) to replace the swingarm bearings.

I've looked at the blowup diagram and it's a standard, very simple swingarm pivot. The nut comes off on one side, and then there's nothing to stop it from being drifted out. However, I've run into a problem. This pivot absolutely defies me, and doesn't want to move. I guess this is probably because a lack of grease has caused it to rust to one or both of the bearings. I've hit it with lots of PlusGas (a good UK equivalent of PB Blaster) and with the blowtorch on both sides. So I moved to the hammer and started bashing away, with a block of wood to protect the threaded end of the spindle. Didn't work. I didn't have a bigger hammer, so I moved over to a big brick, and have been bashing away with all the strength I can muster, and also trying to squat while hitting it (moving body weight vertically to add force to the blows).

I've stopped because I'm now pretty scared, with the amount of force I'm using. The swingarm now creaks (it didn't before) when moved up and down, so I suppose a bearing is damaged. What worries me is damage to the swingarm and the frame. At the end of the day, if I destroy the spindle it doesn't matter, I can get another. But I don't want to damage the frame or swingarm - that would be stupidity.

Any suggestions on how to proceed? Am I good to go, with even more brute force and ignorance until it comes out? What do you think about a little dab of arc-welder to both ends, to heat-shock some of the rust free?

Weld a threaded stud onto the end of the pivot bolt, or drill and tap a hole on the end of the pivot bolt. then use that to construct a puller to pull the spindle out.

Can you spin the pivot bolt from the hex end? If it will spin it should be able to be removed.

gd4now wrote: Can you spin the pivot bolt from the hex end? If it will spin it should be able to be removed.

Yes, I can turn it fairly easily with a spanner, but not with my fingers.
Unfortunately, I'm not going to be able to construct a puller as the other fellow suggested. My welding skills are rudimentary at best. I could try forcing it out by pressure using 2 G-clamps from the threaded end, but not make a puller.
Do you think I'm OK to bash on it violently (from the threaded end) to push it out? My concern is the strength of the frame because I will be hitting it with serious, serious force..

I would try to use a pipe clamp and place a larger socket over the hex end and then attempt to push it out.

I'm not very familiar with your bike, but can you use something like a 3 jaw puller? or if you have an electric drill maybe spin the bolt and have someone else use a punch while its spinning to get it moving.

There is a tubular sleeve between the bearings that's likely corroded and stuck to the shaft. That's why you can rotate the shaft but can't get it out. If the swingarm has a grease fitting I'd pull that out and squirt some PB Blaster or similar in there and give it a chance to work. Worst case cut off the swingarm and buy a replacement from ebay. They seem reasonably cheap.

Clamps are a good idea,as was suggested. Or you might be able to rig up a press using a car jack.

Thanks for the tips guys.

Plenty of things to try then! Got lots of time to work it out, and part of the fun in projects is thinking of creative solutions, so I'll work something out. Worse comes to the worst, I'll get another swingarm and cut out the existing one. Seems a bit last-resort, but if needs must, no big deal.

Ah, lucked out. Tried a rig with a car jack on top and a bike stand below, pressing up on my workbench. The spindle bolt didn't give, but the workbench started to lift. LOL
Lots of penetrating oil didn't seem to make any difference. The 2 x G-clamp method didn't work - even started to bend a heavy duty CrV spanner I laid over the threaded end. All that's left now is to try to spin the bolt so fast that it breaks free of the inner spacer that's corroded itself to it. At the moment, I've put lots of penetrating oil down the grease nipple hole, and am leaving it overnight to try again tomorrow.

Realistically, it isn't going to come out. So my choices will be:
1) Buy a new swingarm, and cut out the existing one in the meantime. Will also need a new pivot bolt and swingarm bearings and seals.
2) Struts (lazy hardtail)...

Building a custom bike is on my bucket list. However, I've never ridden a hard tail before, and I've heard lots of bad things about them. They do look cool, though. This could be the frame to make it happen. Don't know yet. At least I got the headrace bearing races out.

I am a bit late to the show, but there is a penetrant called KROIL that is bar none the best there is. It has saved me untold grief working on vintage firearms and older vehicles. The problem comes when people expect it to work quickly...it doesn't. It can take several days to do it's job. I spray it on the part I want to loosen and if the part has some movement, I move it back and forth trying to exceed the movement limit little by little both ways at first. Perhaps I may even "shock" the saturated part with a dead blow hammer all the while continually soaking the part and moving it little by little if I can. I will do this several times a day if needed and the part is really stuck. I have removed barrels from 80 and 90 year old firearms using these methods and rarely has KROIL let me down, but sometimes I have continued this process for over a week. You can't rush what may have taken Mother Nature and man many years to screw up. Heat is a final resort in some instances, but only a last resort. It can do strange things to metal that you want to save. I think in your case I would have done the KROIL process first and got things freed up as much as possible and with some assistance put the frame/swingarm in a hydraulic press and pushed the pivot out. You may have to use an arbor on top of the bolt. Just remember, a frame will only take so much force before it begins to bend and or twist. Good luck....
Rick H.

A shot in the dark here but Ive had great success stripping rust with brown vinegar. If youre not in a hurry you could fill a tray/bucket and dunk the whole lot in. Leave it a week or so and try again. If the vinegar can get inside it will strip the rust off everything. Guaranteed. (Some people swear by cola but I never tried that as the Lidel vinegar was cheaper.)
This is a general rust removing process. Penetration is the problem though. Grease would probably block it but if youve had at it with the torch,that might not be an issue.
.Patience is the key (young Jedi) . I filled my tank with brown vinegar and left it for two weeks. Clean as a whistle,it was. I emptied it out and derusted a ton of parts.