TOPIC:

Hi,
When I rebuilded my bike I replaced some parts in the fork suspension to get it good as new, so my current setup is from the top, below.
My question is pre compression of the spring, right now I have nothing installed, its only the cap fork top who is pushing the spring down...
I`m a heavy person around 140 pounds, so I was thinking maybe the driving handling is not optimal? and can be better?

Cap Fork Top
440291005

Fork Spring Kit
www.z1enterprises.com/fork-spring-kit-11-1106.html

Pipe Fork Inner
39093-1067

Cylinder Fork Gearhead
44022-1071

Oil
248 cc

what fork oil are you using Gordone? Changing the fork up to a thicker one makes a big difference and is easier and cheaper than messing with springs or spacers. Thicker oil gives slower compression, ie stiffer and slower rebound.

I don't know what the fill level is on that bike...but, what you can do is cheat it some with putting maybe about and inch/25mm more of oil. That will increase the air pressure inside the forks when it comes to compression. My ST1300 is a little weak on the fork springs, but the oil level is only about 65mm. Many bikes are maybe around 100-155mm. Anybody correct me if I'm wrong.

While sitting on the bike and not moving the ideal situation is for 25% of the fork (& shock) travel to be compressed. That leaves the other 75% of movement to absorb bumps on the road. If you have more than 25% add a spacer into the fork to lift the front end. If you have less, then your fork springs are too stiff.

Nessism wrote: While sitting on the bike and not moving the ideal situation is for 25% of the fork (& shock) travel to be compressed. That leaves the other 75% of movement to absorb bumps on the road. If you have more than 25% add a spacer into the fork to lift the front end. If you have less, then your fork springs are too stiff.

Thank you !
Will test these!
When it comes to the filling level shall I just follow recommend filling level from the service manual?

As I recall, the factory suspension was designed for a 150 pound rider, which in the U.S. is very light for male riders. Nessism is correct about setting sag befor changing anything else. Ohlins used to have a really good article on the subject on their website. I know there are others on the web.

Here is Racetech's version

www.racetech.com/articles/suspensionandsprings.htm

140 lbs is a very light rider. Did you mean 140 kg?

gordone wrote:
I`m a heavy person around 140 pounds, so I was thinking maybe the driving handling is not optimal?

A "heavy" 140 Pounds of an rider is a light weight 70 kg Person. gordone , what´s your real weight???

Scirocco wrote:

gordone wrote:
I`m a heavy person around 140 pounds, so I was thinking maybe the driving handling is not optimal?

A "heavy" 140 Pounds of an rider is a light weight 70 kg Person. gordone , what´s your real weight???

My real weight is 110-115kg

By gordone: My real weight is 110-115kg

So you're about 240 pounds. not 140. probably had a typo in the topic post.
I think the fork spring kits typically require a spacer. some guys make a spacer from pvc pipe.

....

martin_csr wrote: By gordone: My real weight is 110-115kg

So you're about 240 pounds. not 140. probably had a typo in the topic post.
I think the fork spring kits typically require a spacer. some guys make a spacer from pvc pipe.

....

While sitting on the bike and not moving the ideal situation is for 25% of the fork (& shock) travel to be compressed. That leaves the other 75% of movement to absorb bumps on the road. If you have more than 25% add a spacer into the fork to lift the front end. If you have less, then your fork springs are too stiff.

Guess I shall make a spacer based on these test fail and trie serval times ?