Front Master Cylinder

Are the caliper bleeders the regular stock-type bleeders or are you using speed bleeders?
Speed bleeders should make the job much easier.

To bleed the brakes, you need to connect clear tubing to the bleeders & route the other end of the clear tubing to clear jars. Put some clean brake fluid in the jars. Then to bleed the brakes, you have to squeeze the brake lever, then open the bleeder while still squeezing, then close the bleeder while still squeezing the Br lever & add more brake fluid to the reservoir, then release the brake lever. You'll need a helper most likely. With a speed bleeder, you don't have to fiddle with the bleeder, so it frees up both hand to squeeze the brake lever & add fluid. To help contain the Br fluid while refilling the reservoir, I made a funnel from milk jug plastic. I shaped it to the same rectangular shape as the reservoir & taped it to hold its shape & taped it to the master cylinder. I also made a black line all around to make sure not to overfill the reservoir. I did this because I had refurbished the mc & didn't want to ruin the new paint.

Something else that might help is to unbolt the brake calipers from the forks and elevate them & have the bleeder nipple pointing upwards. You'll need to put a shim between the brake pads. I used flat aluminum plates as shims. I happened to have a big box in the garage at the time, and it was a perfect height for elevating the caliper.

With mine I had to start at the bottom bleeding the calipers then go to the splitter on each side then at the MC. I'd pull the lever then loosen the connections each time to let the air out then tighten them before I let it back out SLOWLY. Once I was sure there was no air left in the lines I would slowly pump the MC and hold it watching tiny bubbles come out. If I pumped it too quickly it would create more bubbles. I would take my time and work my way up. A large piece of cardboard under the bike took care of any spills that occurred.
Steve
This side the bleeder valve is on the bottom.

This side it is on the top where it belongs. Still a little air would be trapped at the connection.

After easter will I try to bleed more and come back with a report

gordone wrote:

Nessism wrote:

ajsfirehawk wrote: Nsssism, I've often heard the process you describe above. When I've heard it before the cap was to be left of the master cylinder reservoir. Cap on or off make any difference?

Doesn't matter.

If i understand these correct, when you have pressure on the line will the gravity force the air to go up because the weight of the fluid is higher then the air. In therey you will build over pressure in the resvoir by adding air when the cap is on.
But the pressure will have enoufg force to build some over pressure.

No, you are misunderstanding. Many times a soft lever has nothing to do with air in the lines. It's because the caliper pistons are parking too far away from the discs. This is most common with after market piston/seal parts. You need to move the pistons closer, and tying back the lever will help do that.