hit bump....seal went boom...

So I need to replace seals now and not having the best luck finding out what else to replace since I'm tearing them apart. First time for me replacing fork seals...any advice on what to replace and special tools needed would be appreciated, thanks.

What bike?
Steve

Oops, that's embarrassing.....80 kz550ltd

The model designation for the 1980 KZ550 LTD is KZ550-C1.

For a parts diagram with part numbers take a look at www.powersportswarehouse.com/p/Kawasaki#...0-C1-1980/080122D-10

For repair instructions take a look at the Kawasaki Service Manual that covers the KZ550-C1. It can be found at www.kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/Kz400500550_79to83.pdf

Ed

I have changed the fork seals on several bikes. The job isn't difficult, but for me it has always been messy with fork oil everywhere. Wear clothes you don't care about.

Sorry for the late response guys, and thanks for the input. Doesn't seem like rocket science lol, just thought I read to replace something else since it's open and I can't find it...aarrgg!! And wondering if I can make a tool or if I gotta buy one. Busy weekend so all I've done is drain oil and pull spring. The exciting part was when my dog knock the bike over on me and now it's got a few little dents in the tank. Might be time to build a proper bike table.

If you find that the holes in the top of the fork cylinders are round (like my KZ650-C1) rather than hexagonal you may want to make a tool to hold them if you plan to disassemble the forks. You can make a tool by super gluing a 9/16” OUTSIDE diameter vacuum cap to a 3/8” steel rod and putting other end of the rod through a big bolt to make a t-handle to give you a way to hold the rod. I put a clear tube on the rod before gluing on the cap to protect the fork top threads. The friction of the rubber vacuum cap will hold the fork cylinder, but you must apply much force while someone else uses an impact wrench to loosen the fork cylinder bolt. The images below show the tool I made.

As an alternative, you can buy a tool. Take a look at the center tool in the top row at www.racetech.com/page/id/70 . Ed

Awesome! Thanks much! Ordering parts tomorrow.

Use a flashlight to look down inside the forks. The head of the damper rod (inner cylinder) might look like a 12-pt socket. If so, you might be able to fab a tool. some guys use a long bolt w a nut welded to the end. I used a LH threaded bolt/nuts w long ratchet extensions.

Use an 8mm hardened or brake caliper socket to remove the bottom allen bolts.
a cheap tool could twist & break or damage the head of the fastener.

To pull the seals, an off-the-shelf seal puller form the auto parts store should work fine. If you've never pulled a seal before, you have to hook the inner metal ring encased within the rubber --- otherwise, you'll just end up destroying the rubber. Work at the end of a table with a small scrap of wood or something to protect the tubes which are easily gouged.

Air pressure note: the max psi listed on the fork tube label is not the operating pressure. I don't know the exact spec for your bike, but it's probably in the 7.5 - 14.5 psi range or thereabouts. In case the seals blew from over-pressurization.

1981 KZ650-CSR. the KZ550 Ltd is probably similar.

Replace the upper bushing if it's worn. If the upper bushing is worn, it will shorten the life of the new seal. Some forks don't have a removable upper bushing, but some/most/all ? 550's did.

Thanks guys, hust got it all cleaned, nothing looks bad on the metal parts. I think i had 8 lbs in it. Well see if I screw this up lol