'92 KZ1000P Rear brake

Besides developing a lighter touch when applying the rear brake on these bikes are there any other fixes / solutions that can be done to eliminate the rear brake lock up while braking?
The bike has new tires, new brake pads and disc and the brake fluid has been replaced and bleed.

Is it just a learning curve and a good technic?

Did you remove the piston from the caliper body and clean out any accumulation of crud? If not this is the first thing I'd do, along with replacing the stock brake line (if you haven't changed it already of course). Clean out the master too. If replacing the seals use OEM Kawasaki parts. Do NOT purchase after market parts like K&L or you may have troubles.

Once the system is updated and made as good as it can be then the rest is on you. Rear brakes should not be used as the primary means of braking during normal everyday driving. Use them for trail braking into corners and for maximum braking efforts. You can skip them all together for normal day in and day out driving since about 90+% of the braking power is in the front anyway.

My rear brake is adjusted a little loose so it won't lock up as fast. I have a drum. Maybe you can do the same with a disk.
Steve

ED, the brake system is working properly and I know the caliper is releasing when I let off the brake peddle it just seems to grab quickly.
This spring I plan on spending a lot of time in a parking lot developing a good braking technique. I wonder if there is a better set of brake pads for this type of thing.

That's a good idea for drum brakes but I don't think this type of adjust can be made with a disc brake system.

Isn't there a adjustment on the push rod? A little slack is all that's needed. Mastering the brakes is a little tough. When I come to a turn off with dirt on the road, I have to remember not to use the front brake until I clear it and I've been riding for 40 years.
Steve

The factory pads will likely be best for what you want. Many aftermarket pads provide slightly more bite and slightly more heat resistance, but also have more immediate bite. As always, there are trade offs.
As you note, there is no substitute for frequent practice.

swest wrote: Isn't there a adjustment on the push rod? A little slack is all that's needed. Mastering the brakes is a little tough. When I come to a turn off with dirt on the road, I have to remember not to use the front brake until I clear it and I've been riding for 40 years.
Steve

The brakes on the P were probably designed to stop the heavier load when fully outfitted with all the Police gear. This could add another 100+ lbs, with most of it over the rear wheel. It makes sense that they might become a little touchy with all the gear (and weight) removed. You may want to try a set of organic (non-metallic) brake pads. These don't bite quite as hard as semi or full metallic pads. They also reduce rotor wear.

The gap adjustment is only for free play of the pedal's clevis rod to the plunger. The pucks are always in contact with the rotor. Maybe a clever person could grind some of surface area from the pucks to reduce friction.
Best bet is to just learn how to use the brake and practice handling a rear tire slide.