Stupid Clutch Cable

OK, so it's the end of another riding season,and as usual,my clutch cable snaps at the lever. This happens every year. I know I need something shorter,as I have daytona bars on it (the 1100). So my question is this: Which cable would be about 3 inches shorter? The Spectre or the GPZ.OE part # is 54011-1220 Spectre and either 1136 or1101 for the GPZ. i have another replacement cable to put on, but I want to get something shorter anyway. Thanks.

Do you lubricate your cables? Ed

Yes,but because I have a long stock cable and short bars, the cable has a lot of extra lenght to it that I think causes a lot of stress on the pull.And I have to keep it tight to the frame because of the header.

Do you lubricate the cable ends, especially at the lever & adjust for clutch lever free play?

Instead of guessing what size to get, disconnect the cable at the clutch lever, then position it to figure out the overage. Make sure it remains seated at the other end. After installing Euro bars, I ended up getting a motion pro cable that's about 6" shorter than stock, maybe more (#03-0030)(81 650-CSR).

Where were you 6 months ago? These 4 cables sat on eBay for 7 days. I was giving them away for $12.00 to the door. I was paying $5.35 for mailing. No one took advantage? Sorry "oink" just sold a used one for $14.00 plus shipping.
I threw them out, as I don't need anything anymore. I gave up and sold all of my stuff

Go for the 1978 Z1R cables. They are about 4 inch shorter

That's crazy ....... I'm still on my original clutch, throttle, speedo and tack cables after 35 years and 29,000 miles. Lube em maybe every 2 years or so with a mix of 3 in 1, wd-40, reg 10/40 and 90/140 rear end lube (nothing exact just a shot of each) and a dab of grease at the hand lever and carbs.

I just replaced my dragging clutch cable after 42,000 miles.
However, I lubed the cables religiously every 500-800 miles over the last 37-38 years!!

Any kind of kink in the cable will stretch and snap much faster than lack of lube will. There may be dozens of ways to route the cable, but only one is 'right', in the sense that it applies the minimum amount of kinking. I've learned that lesson the hard way...

My clutch has always been hard on cables. I'm going to extend the arm 1/4" to make it easier to pull.
Steve

I always try to keep a spare clutch cable on hand.

From my experience that "kink" is or wear spot is usually that one where the cable is clamped to the downtube by the header pipe.
The split section with the middle adjuster.
The frayed area is typically where the cable exits the housing sleeve and connects to the clutch lever.
Frequent lube and a nice curve with no hard bends is the secret to very long life!